Fogey1

Nice to have space to work. Looks like the kind of place that might have a lift in or around it. Or in its future. ;-) Have fun.

docmirror

No, it's an airplane hanger. There won't be a lift in there.

Shark_Week

yep just a plain ol hangar. no room at my garage had to borrow this space.

ptuomov
all these "improvements" would be great, and something i would look into doing in the future. honestly, not just cause the wife says, i want to get this car back on the road and do it as inexpensively as possible. maybe it will give me more time to learn about these cars and get a game plan for a more complete engine rebuild. i still got to learn why porshe rods were designed poorly and why the exh cam is junk. i think i understand why the pistons need to be drilled, just wondering if i could or even should do that myself , i have lots to learn. thanks for everyones help. not quitting till the engine is out and torn down this weekend.

docmirror

Ok, I'm gonna go 'off the reservation'. If your mission is to have a fun and fast GT that looks smashing, the engine bits are fine just the way they are. There are several iterations of the rods, but I think all of them will be suitable unless you plan on tracking it regularly. The cams are all cast, from the first to the last Shark they are all cast. Later cams have a lower and smaller profile, which tends to inhibit breathing. There are also some issues with nose pitting, but it's rarely a serious problem. As for the pistons, the drilled pistons help lube and cool the cylinder wall of course, which is always a good thing.

If you're going to take the engine out, and have the heads off, you're not too far cost wise from replacing the bearings and the rings. I think the bearings on these cars will last a long, long time under normal use. Same with the rings. If you do the rings, you'll have to hone the jugs to knock the glaze off and have the new rings seat in the walls. The bearings are easily replaceable, but there are different tolerance groups for all the different journal sizes. Although they are a nominal spec value, some bearings will have a color dot on them to indicate that they are a few ten thou tight or loose. At one time, I believe these engines were all micced and the bearings were hand selected. If that's the case(I'm pretty sure it's true for the GTS engine), I would leave the bearings alone, and if the cylinder walls look good I would leave that alone too. Although oil consumption could be a problem later.

While the engine design can always come in for some improvement, the GTS is a pretty good platform for a bone stock +300HP V8. You can spend money everywhere, but if it's performance you want, the HP is in the heads. Start modifying there, and you'll see some impressive returns. Hopefully, the bottom-end will handle the increase.

Shark_Week

I finally had enough time and it got cool enough to finish the engine pull. i will have to say this has been more of a challenge than i originally thought. considering going to the porkensioner, any thoughts? also has anyone re-installed engine with clutch assembly bolted to engine? seems like it will be a chore doing it after the install while on my back. thank god for this site. seemed to be more helpful than the manual in a lot of areas. next week i'll pull the heads to see the extent of the damge.

Mrmerlin

put the clutch in after you drop in the engine otherwise the motor mounts will prevent the engine from dropping in
Replace the crank position sensor and the motor mounts and oil pan gasket

Shark_Week

okay, thanks for the tip. just wishing it were possible i guess. any thoughts on using the anchor mounts? would rather spend the money somewhere else on the engine.

docmirror

Put your list of goodies together and call Roger at 928sRUS (Rog100). He has stuff in stock, and good prices. You'll also need some other things later. I would recommend the Porkensioner, it looks like an ideal solution to the crappy Porsche tensioner.

danglerb

If your going to be doing a lot of up and down, get a GOOD jack (HF with 6 ton stands) and a set of Porkens lift bars.

Get the mounts from Roger, I think he uses a better brand than anchor?

Take care where you try and save money, most of the things that can be gotten away with have been discussed here. Porsche's view was to replace the factory rods any time it was convenient on the 93, so you might give that serious thought as well as doing heads, valve guides and new head gaskets.

Shark_Week

if Porshe's view was to replace rods at a convenient time, what was there suggestion to replace them with? another set of Porshe rods? and yes i've already gotten in touch with Roger. thanks, keep em coming

Shark_Week

i had a few hours to kill after work today so i thought i would tear down the engine a little. looks three cylinders on the 5-8 bank has bent valves. i'll pull the other head tomorrow.
before
Attachment 384565
and after

Lizard928

If one cylinder appears to have good or OK valves I would recommend that you turn the head upside down and fill it with water.
I have seen some the appear OK but have kissed ever so slightly as to not seal 100%

docmirror

R&R all exhaust valves and guides. Inspect and decide on the intakes. Your bores look very nice. I would be hesitant to knock the pistons out of those bores unless you want to do some work on the rods and pistons. Remove and inspect #2 & 6 rod bearing. Check the journal for grooves. If they look ok, you could button up the lower end and just do head work.

Carbon is very, very hard. If you clean the top of the pistons get all the Carbon vacuumed up. It will scratch the cylinder wall if you leave it in the gap.

Giovanni

I have a set of heads that are priced well. in the 2nd pic, the block appear to have a good scar on the 2nd bore at 10 o'clock or not?

docmirror

Reflection of the piston where the valve struck it and knocked the carbon off. Same on the far right piston.