another TBF project
#31
Rio, what appears in the photo is not in the cylinder bore. hey Doc your suggestion to r&r exh valves and guides is because they are typically junk or ? the intake valves are the ones that are obviously bent. also what is your opinion on drilling the piston holes all the way ?
#32
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Well, when you're in here, the exhaust valve is historically the weakest point in the engine. Due to it getting hit every other rev with hot gases. In most engines, the exhaust valve determines the life of the engine or at least the head. To not replace them would be cost inefficient IMO.
As for drilling the pistons, you'll have to ask a GTS engine guy that question. Since you have no data on oil consumption from the PO, I guess it's gonna be a crap shoot. Like I said, I would be very hesitant to pull the pistons out of those bores. Once you do that, you'll have to deglaze the walls and prolly go with new rings at a minimum. Decide on your long term goals for the engine before cracking the bottom end open, other than the 2/6 rod bearing check.
As for drilling the pistons, you'll have to ask a GTS engine guy that question. Since you have no data on oil consumption from the PO, I guess it's gonna be a crap shoot. Like I said, I would be very hesitant to pull the pistons out of those bores. Once you do that, you'll have to deglaze the walls and prolly go with new rings at a minimum. Decide on your long term goals for the engine before cracking the bottom end open, other than the 2/6 rod bearing check.
#35
As I understand it as long as the bore looks and feels ok, you can put the old pistons and rings back in, or replace the rings depending on wear without doing anything to the bore.
I have no clue on which rods to replace the old ones with, I would go with the usual sources of trusted advice.
I have no clue on which rods to replace the old ones with, I would go with the usual sources of trusted advice.
#38
You might want to replace those knock sensors.
Get a complete gasket set. They seem pricey, but in the end it'll be cheaper then buying them individually.
You might as well pull off the oil pan at this point, then you won't have to worry about dropping things into the engine.
Get a complete gasket set. They seem pricey, but in the end it'll be cheaper then buying them individually.
You might as well pull off the oil pan at this point, then you won't have to worry about dropping things into the engine.
#39
do the knock sensors the crank position sensor, the throttle position sensor, the ISV, the hall sensor, all of the flexible lines under the intake, the flappy vacuum pot,consider replacing the oil fill spout, check it on a flat surface if its warped get a new one otherwise your valley will soon be filled with oil.
Motor mounts, silicone oil pan gasket, fuel lines, oil cooler lines if the fittings spin in the hoses, same for the trans cooler lines
Motor mounts, silicone oil pan gasket, fuel lines, oil cooler lines if the fittings spin in the hoses, same for the trans cooler lines
#41
Wow, Great job!
Now you've reached that slippery slope for sure! Your engine will be pretty damn clean so now you've got to paint or powdercoat the intake/camcovers, clean the engine bay, replace all wear items (front end, top end refresh, etc)
It will be bad to the bone when you're done!!
Now you've reached that slippery slope for sure! Your engine will be pretty damn clean so now you've got to paint or powdercoat the intake/camcovers, clean the engine bay, replace all wear items (front end, top end refresh, etc)
It will be bad to the bone when you're done!!
#42
thanks guys. to clean i just used a medium stiff brush with solvent and lots of elbow grease. came out better than expected. definetely replacing all the sensors, etc. gonna get the intake and covers done so if anyone can recommend a shop in san diego that would be great. also been going back and forth about doing the rod bearings. since the pan is off i guess i should at least take a look.