Leaking Radiator Side Tank
#16
Team Owner
use some anti seize on the collar nuts that are on the lines. then you will be able to remove the lines for the next WP job.
Also make sure the threaded adapters are screwed into the coolers and they are tight prior to connecting the lines
Also make sure the threaded adapters are screwed into the coolers and they are tight prior to connecting the lines
#17
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Any tips/tricks on getting those cooler line collar nuts to break free?
The rad side inset nut turns OK, but the collar nut is too tight to turn by itself.
I've tried with a wrench on the inside nut and one on the collar, supporting the inside wrench on the fender and banging on the collar wrench, still no luck.
Soaked them with PB Blaster last night too.
The rad side inset nut turns OK, but the collar nut is too tight to turn by itself.
I've tried with a wrench on the inside nut and one on the collar, supporting the inside wrench on the fender and banging on the collar wrench, still no luck.
Soaked them with PB Blaster last night too.
#18
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Don't let the rad side nut turn at all - that will twist the fitting inside the tank.
I've had some success using a pair of combination wrenches - open end on the nuts. Then squeeze the ring ends together using a single spring compressor. This allows you to apply a lot more force on the wrenches than squeezing together with your hands and it is also carefully controlled force, without the danger that the inner nut can turn.
If spring compressors not available try using a spanish windlass - loop of rope through the rings of the wrenches then twist the rope between the rings using a bar of some sort to shorten the loop and squeeze the rings together.
HTH
PS See Post 28 in this thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r-lines-2.html
I've had some success using a pair of combination wrenches - open end on the nuts. Then squeeze the ring ends together using a single spring compressor. This allows you to apply a lot more force on the wrenches than squeezing together with your hands and it is also carefully controlled force, without the danger that the inner nut can turn.
If spring compressors not available try using a spanish windlass - loop of rope through the rings of the wrenches then twist the rope between the rings using a bar of some sort to shorten the loop and squeeze the rings together.
HTH
PS See Post 28 in this thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r-lines-2.html
Last edited by jon928se; 09-01-2009 at 07:29 PM. Reason: added link
#19
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Interesting work-around -
https://rennlist.com/forums/5178500-post28.html
Unfortunately, not much room to work in there.
https://rennlist.com/forums/5178500-post28.html
Unfortunately, not much room to work in there.
#20
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Randy..........be very careful with the rad side nuts. They should be held tight and loosen the oil line side.
Stan mention the correct size of wrenchs; 27 and 32mm.............be careful of knuckles, other body parts and the car should a wrench slip. You'll have to loosen/remove these oil lines to allow enough room to pull the rad fans out then the rad is held in place on top either side and as mentioned dont forget the electrical coonection lower rad DS.
Stan mention the correct size of wrenchs; 27 and 32mm.............be careful of knuckles, other body parts and the car should a wrench slip. You'll have to loosen/remove these oil lines to allow enough room to pull the rad fans out then the rad is held in place on top either side and as mentioned dont forget the electrical coonection lower rad DS.
#21
Team Owner
Go to sears and buy the required wrenches also buy a set of leather gloves.
When the rad is done put the wrenches into your tool box they will come in handy for rack work and oil cooler line replacement( Or return them)
When the rad is done put the wrenches into your tool box they will come in handy for rack work and oil cooler line replacement( Or return them)
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#25
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Larry--
Buy the tank and the seal. Do both sides unless you are feeling real lucky. Takes a short while to pull the radiator, a short while to unbend the tabs per previous instructions. Short while to remove old tank. Short while to clamp the new one in place with new seal. Short while to bend tabs back. Getting the idea? It can take a while but it can be done. Got yer brains swapped and stickers installed yet?
Buy the tank and the seal. Do both sides unless you are feeling real lucky. Takes a short while to pull the radiator, a short while to unbend the tabs per previous instructions. Short while to remove old tank. Short while to clamp the new one in place with new seal. Short while to bend tabs back. Getting the idea? It can take a while but it can be done. Got yer brains swapped and stickers installed yet?
#26
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Larry--
Buy the tank and the seal. Do both sides unless you are feeling real lucky. Takes a short while to pull the radiator, a short while to unbend the tabs per previous instructions. Short while to remove old tank. Short while to clamp the new one in place with new seal. Short while to bend tabs back. Getting the idea? It can take a while but it can be done. Got yer brains swapped and stickers installed yet?
Buy the tank and the seal. Do both sides unless you are feeling real lucky. Takes a short while to pull the radiator, a short while to unbend the tabs per previous instructions. Short while to remove old tank. Short while to clamp the new one in place with new seal. Short while to bend tabs back. Getting the idea? It can take a while but it can be done. Got yer brains swapped and stickers installed yet?
#27
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Anyone know by chance the size of the o-rings (in mm) used on the transmission cooler:
https://rennlist.com/forums/6652577-post5.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/6652577-post5.html
#28
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Randy, I don't usually care about the nuts on the removal side of the equation, they're coming out anyway. And trying to counterhold may cause one to overtighten them and cause the exact issue we're warned against in this thread, ie twist. So I would just remove the nuts as they want to come out. As far as the o-rins - I think rad shops have these. Also look for rings that can handle coolant. I've never found gunk in my rads ... lucky I guess.
#29
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Randy, I don't usually care about the nuts on the removal side of the equation, they're coming out anyway. And trying to counterhold may cause one to overtighten them and cause the exact issue we're warned against in this thread, ie twist. So I would just remove the nuts as they want to come out. As far as the o-rins - I think rad shops have these. Also look for rings that can handle coolant. I've never found gunk in my rads ... lucky I guess.
I want to purchase the o-rings myself so I can do an in-house turn-key repair.
The 1 3/16" O-ring J references equates to about a 30 mm O-ring
#30
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Randy--
Look in the phone book for a bearing supply place nearby. Take the cooler and the old o-rings with you.
Does anybody really use phone books anymore? Turns out that bearing supply places don't advertize in the consumre directories anymore. B-to-B book will have them though.
Look in the phone book for a bearing supply place nearby. Take the cooler and the old o-rings with you.
Does anybody really use phone books anymore? Turns out that bearing supply places don't advertize in the consumre directories anymore. B-to-B book will have them though.