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Leaking Radiator Side Tank

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Old 08-31-2009, 09:43 PM
  #16  
Mrmerlin
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use some anti seize on the collar nuts that are on the lines. then you will be able to remove the lines for the next WP job.
Also make sure the threaded adapters are screwed into the coolers and they are tight prior to connecting the lines
Old 09-01-2009, 05:10 PM
  #17  
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Any tips/tricks on getting those cooler line collar nuts to break free?

The rad side inset nut turns OK, but the collar nut is too tight to turn by itself.

I've tried with a wrench on the inside nut and one on the collar, supporting the inside wrench on the fender and banging on the collar wrench, still no luck.

Soaked them with PB Blaster last night too.
Old 09-01-2009, 07:23 PM
  #18  
jon928se
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Don't let the rad side nut turn at all - that will twist the fitting inside the tank.

I've had some success using a pair of combination wrenches - open end on the nuts. Then squeeze the ring ends together using a single spring compressor. This allows you to apply a lot more force on the wrenches than squeezing together with your hands and it is also carefully controlled force, without the danger that the inner nut can turn.

If spring compressors not available try using a spanish windlass - loop of rope through the rings of the wrenches then twist the rope between the rings using a bar of some sort to shorten the loop and squeeze the rings together.

HTH


PS See Post 28 in this thread

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r-lines-2.html

Last edited by jon928se; 09-01-2009 at 07:29 PM. Reason: added link
Old 09-01-2009, 07:41 PM
  #19  
Randy V
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Interesting work-around -

https://rennlist.com/forums/5178500-post28.html

Unfortunately, not much room to work in there.
Old 09-01-2009, 07:58 PM
  #20  
the flyin' scotsman
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Randy..........be very careful with the rad side nuts. They should be held tight and loosen the oil line side.

Stan mention the correct size of wrenchs; 27 and 32mm.............be careful of knuckles, other body parts and the car should a wrench slip. You'll have to loosen/remove these oil lines to allow enough room to pull the rad fans out then the rad is held in place on top either side and as mentioned dont forget the electrical coonection lower rad DS.
Old 09-01-2009, 08:24 PM
  #21  
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Go to sears and buy the required wrenches also buy a set of leather gloves.
When the rad is done put the wrenches into your tool box they will come in handy for rack work and oil cooler line replacement( Or return them)
Old 09-01-2009, 08:31 PM
  #22  
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I've got wrenches, lads.

Time for the torch.
Old 09-01-2009, 09:10 PM
  #23  
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Randy,
I have the same exact problem with my passenger side tank seeping fluids. What to do
Old 09-01-2009, 09:13 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by morganabowen
Randy,
I have the same exact problem with my passenger side tank seeping fluids. What to do
Do what I'm doing.
Old 09-01-2009, 09:18 PM
  #25  
dr bob
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Larry--

Buy the tank and the seal. Do both sides unless you are feeling real lucky. Takes a short while to pull the radiator, a short while to unbend the tabs per previous instructions. Short while to remove old tank. Short while to clamp the new one in place with new seal. Short while to bend tabs back. Getting the idea? It can take a while but it can be done. Got yer brains swapped and stickers installed yet?
Old 09-02-2009, 01:45 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by dr bob
Larry--

Buy the tank and the seal. Do both sides unless you are feeling real lucky. Takes a short while to pull the radiator, a short while to unbend the tabs per previous instructions. Short while to remove old tank. Short while to clamp the new one in place with new seal. Short while to bend tabs back. Getting the idea? It can take a while but it can be done. Got yer brains swapped and stickers installed yet?
Got busy yesterday and today, but will go and pick up my car either tomorrow or Thursday. Will decide then what to do over the weekend. I have to check to see if I can get anymore followup tests I'll let you know
Old 09-02-2009, 03:05 PM
  #27  
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Anyone know by chance the size of the o-rings (in mm) used on the transmission cooler:

https://rennlist.com/forums/6652577-post5.html

Old 09-02-2009, 03:36 PM
  #28  
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Randy, I don't usually care about the nuts on the removal side of the equation, they're coming out anyway. And trying to counterhold may cause one to overtighten them and cause the exact issue we're warned against in this thread, ie twist. So I would just remove the nuts as they want to come out. As far as the o-rins - I think rad shops have these. Also look for rings that can handle coolant. I've never found gunk in my rads ... lucky I guess.
Old 09-02-2009, 03:38 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by heinrich
Randy, I don't usually care about the nuts on the removal side of the equation, they're coming out anyway. And trying to counterhold may cause one to overtighten them and cause the exact issue we're warned against in this thread, ie twist. So I would just remove the nuts as they want to come out. As far as the o-rins - I think rad shops have these. Also look for rings that can handle coolant. I've never found gunk in my rads ... lucky I guess.
I'm guessing you have not done this job before, H. You cannot just 'remove the nuts as they want to come out', unfortunately.

I want to purchase the o-rings myself so I can do an in-house turn-key repair.

The 1 3/16" O-ring J references equates to about a 30 mm O-ring
Old 09-02-2009, 05:38 PM
  #30  
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Randy--

Look in the phone book for a bearing supply place nearby. Take the cooler and the old o-rings with you.


Does anybody really use phone books anymore? Turns out that bearing supply places don't advertize in the consumre directories anymore. B-to-B book will have them though.


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