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WTB 84-85 MTM Flywheel, for Megasquirt

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Old 08-21-2009, 12:19 PM
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toofast928
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Default WTB 84-85 MTM Flywheel, for Megasquirt

Just need the tone wheel so I'm looking for a trashed 84-85 flywheel for 5sp.
Hopen to transfer the tone wheel to my good flywheel and use as Megasquirt's crank signal.
I can have a tone wheel made for $125 but I rather have OEM.
Will also take a good flywheel, PM me the thickness and $$.
Thanks, Tony

Last edited by toofast928; 12-09-2012 at 10:55 PM.
Old 08-21-2009, 12:39 PM
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hacker-pschorr
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You are going to use a 100 tooth wheel with MS?

I have two 100 tooth wheels loose I am not going to use any time soon and an 80-84 new flywheel I purchased from Brendon collecting dust.
Old 08-29-2009, 08:29 PM
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toofast928
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Still need a flywheel here..........
Old 08-29-2009, 11:11 PM
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Rob Edwards
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Tony-

I have the timing ring off of an '85/86 flywheel that you can have for the price of shipping. I'm out of town till Monday but PM me your address and I'll toss it in the mail.
Old 08-29-2009, 11:15 PM
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Fabio421
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What are the differences in the flywheels from year to year? I need a flywheel for my 86 engine build. I plan on retaining the dual disc clutch that resides in the car that the engine will be installed into. I would like to use Carl's lightweight flywheel but will need additional parts ( ring gear ) I believe. ANyone?

BTW Rob, if Tony passes on the timing ring, I would be interested if the offer stands. Thanks
Old 08-29-2009, 11:25 PM
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Lizard928
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I have the 100-1 ring on a auto flywheel I could pop it off and send it to you if you wish.

But I still say a 36-1 on the crank is a better way to go as then you dont have to try to attach the reference sensor to the engine somehow at the back.
Old 08-31-2009, 03:07 PM
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Fabio421
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Originally Posted by Lizard931
I have the 100-1 ring on a auto flywheel I could pop it off and send it to you if you wish.

But I still say a 36-1 on the crank is a better way to go as then you dont have to try to attach the reference sensor to the engine somehow at the back.
If using the stock timing ring w/ MS why couldn't you use the stock crank position sensor in the stock location?
Old 08-31-2009, 03:26 PM
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Lizard928
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Originally Posted by Fabio421
If using the stock timing ring w/ MS why couldn't you use the stock crank position sensor in the stock location?
His car didnt come with a toothed flywheel which is why he needs this.
If the engine didnt come with the toothed flywheel stock, there is no hole for the sensor.

Look at all CIS and L-jet cars, it simply doesnt exsist as they are triggered by the pickup in the distributor.
Old 08-31-2009, 06:04 PM
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Fabio421
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Originally Posted by Lizard931
His car didnt come with a toothed flywheel which is why he needs this.
If the engine didnt come with the toothed flywheel stock, there is no hole for the sensor.

Look at all CIS and L-jet cars, it simply doesnt exsist as they are triggered by the pickup in the distributor.
In my case, the engine did come with this. Will I be able to use this stock sensor and timing gear with the Megasquirt?
Old 08-31-2009, 06:18 PM
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Lizard928
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If you have the stock sensor hole then yes you can.
Old 08-31-2009, 06:55 PM
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Just found out Megasquirt does not read the 100 tooth ring.

Need the 60 tooth, but still have to retain the distributor.

Colin do you think having Megasquirt reference off a CAS is more accurate than referencing the distributor's green wire? -- I know it is but does it justify the expense of the 60 tooth flywheel and CAS sensor =approx $250.00.
Old 08-31-2009, 08:30 PM
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Lizard928
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Tony,

Who told you that it doesnt? Or did you try it? As I have been told by others who had done it that it did work. The more teeth is not better as it taxes the brain more.

And I still maintain that doing a 36-1 ring on the crank pulley (easily adjustable too) is FAR easier, and then you just use an EDIS VR sensor to pull the signal. These sensors are a dime a dozen and are CHEAP and reliable.

I honestly see no point to go off the flywheel (adding much more rotating mass too) as suppose to a light ring off the front of the engine.

I personally wouldnt use the distributor. Part of the reason for going this way is to ditch the stock cap, rotor and plug leads which allows you to run a much larger gap. The distributor just doesnt have the resolution imo to really dial it in.
Old 08-31-2009, 09:39 PM
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From Megasquirt Manual:

"Missing Tooth Trigger Wheel Decoder for MegaSquirt-II™/MicroSquirt®
Code version 2.6 or greater can be configured to use a missing tooth crank wheel for the tach input. The wheel must be of the form M-N, where M > N, and there is only one set of continuous missing teeth. Common OEM wheels are 36-1 (used with Ford's EDIS and others) and 60-2 (common on many makes)."

  • The S/C crank pulley is made of aluminum, leaves me with no space to mount the 36 tooth EDIS. (I want to keep the AC pulley)
  • I need the OEM distributor to control spark fire order, plus Megasquirt can only control one coil.
Old 08-31-2009, 09:45 PM
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What you have quoted does not state that it cannot read the 100-1 wheel.

What that says is that it cannot use a 100+1 ring. By this some manufactures will fill two teeth together making one long tooth. This is what they are refering too.

If the SC pulley is aluminum you could drill and tap 36-1 holes and then loctite steel plugs (like porken uses for the WP block off) and then just mount the VR sensor closer. This would allow you to run full EDIS.
And actually if you run MSII w/ Extra code you can run up to 4 coils. This would allow you to control 2 coil packs and run the EDIS 4 or 8 coil packs controlled by the distributor for running wasted spark without requiring to run the EDIS-8 brain. This will still work with the 60-2 or 100-1 ring.
Old 08-31-2009, 10:02 PM
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Yep good points.
I'm not that brave drilling/machining into the $800 S/C pulley.

Not to sure of wasted spark on S/C 928 either. Wasted spark on cylinder that is on valve overlap could ignite "blow thru boost" causing intake backfire. Not saying wasted spark wouldn't work on a blown 928. Just saying I don't want to be the first.


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