Tech secession in North Texas?
08-09-2009, 06:31 AM
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Tech secession in North Texas?
There are a few of you out there who know my story, but for those of you who don't he it is. a few months ago I bought a black 86.5 AT that had not run in four years. I replaced the battery, spark plugs, and ignition wires, drained the gas, and cleaned the idol control valve. John came by one weekend and patched up some vacuum leaks, and checked the timing belt. Despite all of this the car continues to hunt for idol, and requires gas to start. One day I accidentally started it without the part that connects the vacuum lines to the brake booster, and it ran like a top. So the problem is with one or more of the components in the vacuum line system. Im good with the basics but diagnosing which part is the problem is a little over my head. I was hoping to have a tech secession on August 15th. I live in Granbury about 30 min south of Ft. Worth. Any help would be greatly appreciated, and all takers will be paid with beer, brats, and burgers!
My main concern is getting to where i can drive the beast, but there are a few small problems such as a hard to open door handle where yalls previous knowledge would come in handy. I am at your mercy, if this is not a good day let me know when is.
My main concern is getting to where i can drive the beast, but there are a few small problems such as a hard to open door handle where yalls previous knowledge would come in handy. I am at your mercy, if this is not a good day let me know when is.
08-09-2009, 10:42 AM
#3
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Sounds like we need to replace all the vacuum lines. Its usually easier to replace them all... rather than toying with each individually.
Lance, wish I could come down and help. I'm headed to Monterey, CA this weekend for the Monterey Historic Races at Laguna Seca.
Lance, wish I could come down and help. I'm headed to Monterey, CA this weekend for the Monterey Historic Races at Laguna Seca.
08-09-2009, 11:01 AM
#4
Sounds like un-metered air getting in the intake, not unusual with as many rubber bits that the 85-86 have on them. Might be easy to find, might not be. Or the TPS.
As to the door handel could be a busted hinge piece, or an adjustment issue. Taking the door panel off could lead you in the right direction.
As to the door handel could be a busted hinge piece, or an adjustment issue. Taking the door panel off could lead you in the right direction.
08-10-2009, 12:13 AM
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Yeah, somewhere between auto spell and making my post at 4 in the morning the session part got screwed up. I plan on replacing all the vacuum lines, but i think the problem is with one or more of the parts they connect to. Forgive me for not knowing what they are called, but I assume they are some kind of regulator, or check valves with diaphragms inside. TPS?
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black 86.5 928S
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black 86.5 928S
Last edited by Lance A; 08-10-2009 at 04:34 AM.
08-10-2009, 06:36 PM
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Bump! 
I'm working that Saturday, but as a group we need to help a fellow 928 owner out. After all he's offering free beer and brats and burgers.
I'd start by replacing all vacuum lines and elbows. Get a mityvac and test each check valve and component. There should be a vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood.
Do you own a set of workshop manuals?
Is the car drivable, can you bring it to our next breakfast on Sept. 5th? Maybe we could do a tech session then?
The door handle problem is usually the casting has cracked and is starting to spread apart. Unless someone was in there recently I doubt it came out of adjustment by itself.
Here is a write up on the handle replacement:
Door handle R & R 3 hrs, it’s crucial the linkage between the handle and the latch is adjusted properly. Incorrect adjustment causes premature failure from worn stoppers (for max pull) that put extra strain on the linkage. The arm breaks off after the stop has worn enough.
Remove the door panel and close the window. Find the anti-theft plate next to the lock mechanism. Loosen the nut and bolt that hold its mounting bracket in place at the bottom front corner. Don't remove them, it slides off when loose. Open the window and finish removing the plate by removing 2 screws, one in a recess at the top edge of the door and the other on the aft side of the door above the latch. With the window all the way down you can maneuver the plate out and close the window.
Don’t loosen the glass. Locate the lever attached to the handle mechanism and pop it off. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the exterior door handle to the inner mechanism and remove the nuts that hold the inner mechanism and replace it.
There is room for adjustment so the handle doesn’t rub on the door. Check for smooth operation before putting it back together.
Remove the lock mechanism to get better access. Remove 2 bolts that are slightly recessed along the top edge of the door, and then remove the two bolts holding the latch. Then pop lever from the lock off the mechanism. Lower the mechanism into the door. Adjust the handle so it doesn't rub against the door.
On reassembly slide the lock button back up through its hole, and reattach the lever from the lock to the mechanism, by first removing the lock. Remove the rubber cover and the bolt that hold the lock in place. With the lock held just outside its hole in the door, reach into the lock's door hole, and press the lever back in place to its connector on the lock mechanism. Reattach the lock in the door; press the lever from the lock mechanism to the connector on the inner handle mechanism with a screwdriver. With the window down, re-install the anti theft plate. Close the window and tighten everything. P/N 928 537 063 04.
I'm working that Saturday, but as a group we need to help a fellow 928 owner out. After all he's offering free beer and brats and burgers.
I'd start by replacing all vacuum lines and elbows. Get a mityvac and test each check valve and component. There should be a vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood.
Do you own a set of workshop manuals?
Is the car drivable, can you bring it to our next breakfast on Sept. 5th? Maybe we could do a tech session then?
The door handle problem is usually the casting has cracked and is starting to spread apart. Unless someone was in there recently I doubt it came out of adjustment by itself.
Here is a write up on the handle replacement:
Door handle R & R 3 hrs, it’s crucial the linkage between the handle and the latch is adjusted properly. Incorrect adjustment causes premature failure from worn stoppers (for max pull) that put extra strain on the linkage. The arm breaks off after the stop has worn enough.
Remove the door panel and close the window. Find the anti-theft plate next to the lock mechanism. Loosen the nut and bolt that hold its mounting bracket in place at the bottom front corner. Don't remove them, it slides off when loose. Open the window and finish removing the plate by removing 2 screws, one in a recess at the top edge of the door and the other on the aft side of the door above the latch. With the window all the way down you can maneuver the plate out and close the window.
Don’t loosen the glass. Locate the lever attached to the handle mechanism and pop it off. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the exterior door handle to the inner mechanism and remove the nuts that hold the inner mechanism and replace it.
There is room for adjustment so the handle doesn’t rub on the door. Check for smooth operation before putting it back together.
Remove the lock mechanism to get better access. Remove 2 bolts that are slightly recessed along the top edge of the door, and then remove the two bolts holding the latch. Then pop lever from the lock off the mechanism. Lower the mechanism into the door. Adjust the handle so it doesn't rub against the door.
On reassembly slide the lock button back up through its hole, and reattach the lever from the lock to the mechanism, by first removing the lock. Remove the rubber cover and the bolt that hold the lock in place. With the lock held just outside its hole in the door, reach into the lock's door hole, and press the lever back in place to its connector on the lock mechanism. Reattach the lock in the door; press the lever from the lock mechanism to the connector on the inner handle mechanism with a screwdriver. With the window down, re-install the anti theft plate. Close the window and tighten everything. P/N 928 537 063 04.
08-12-2009, 12:08 AM
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Jim M- I have shop manuals, but as i recently discovered its not a complete set. I dont think it could make it to the next meeting, but at this point Id be willing to rent a car hauler and tow it to a tech session if need be. Ive got the vacuum diagram, but me and John already went through and reconnected everything. Their were several connections that were undone, so i suppose that it is also possible that something crawled in the lines and plugged them up. Where would I find a mityvac and is it pretty self explanatory on how to use it.
Thank all of you for yalls input!
Thank all of you for yalls input!
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08-13-2009, 01:40 AM
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Tech Secession. Classic. Good luck with that S3.5, "the king of OBs"!
I just helped a fellow find a slightly worn '86.5 - his first Porsche - I'm going to have to do some quick wrenching next week to quench the Belt Ten. light, among other things, so he can get it home.
I just helped a fellow find a slightly worn '86.5 - his first Porsche - I'm going to have to do some quick wrenching next week to quench the Belt Ten. light, among other things, so he can get it home.
08-13-2009, 02:19 PM
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What did I do? It's not my fault! The dog did it. Check's in the mail.
I can try to go down on Sat for a while. Not sure when. We need address and directions. I think on this engine we might as well pull the intake ends. One big concern is that we'll be a long way from a source of 928 specific parts. For this reason, trailering the car to Double Oak would be better. Unless Sean wants to load up with intake and vac parts and bring it all, then take back what we don't use.
I'm also thinking intake boots and clamps. Lots of vacuum stuff on these cars.
I can try to go down on Sat for a while. Not sure when. We need address and directions. I think on this engine we might as well pull the intake ends. One big concern is that we'll be a long way from a source of 928 specific parts. For this reason, trailering the car to Double Oak would be better. Unless Sean wants to load up with intake and vac parts and bring it all, then take back what we don't use.
I'm also thinking intake boots and clamps. Lots of vacuum stuff on these cars.
08-13-2009, 06:51 PM
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Doc-
Ive already replaced the intake boots, but not the clamps. Roger is sending me a full vacuum line kit, a MAF to air-box boot, and a check valve that plugs into the brake booster. It should all be here today. Any amount of time you could donate would be appreciated.
John-
Thanks for letting me borrow the Mitivac. Ill give you a shout to set up a time for me to swing by.
Everyone-
Let me know if you can make it so I can call u in the gate.
Lance Albrecht
8519 Ravenswood Rd
Granbury, Tx 76049
Coming from Arlington you will take 20 west, and exit 377 south. You will go through Benbrook, then Cresson. 6 miles past the rail road tracks in cresson you will turn left on 167. Fallow 167 all the way to the Pecan Plantation development. Turn right at the big white brick entrance. Tell the security guy your hear to see me. Go around the circle and turn right on Ravenswood. Ill be a couple miles down on the right.
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Black 1986.5 AT
Ive already replaced the intake boots, but not the clamps. Roger is sending me a full vacuum line kit, a MAF to air-box boot, and a check valve that plugs into the brake booster. It should all be here today. Any amount of time you could donate would be appreciated.
John-
Thanks for letting me borrow the Mitivac. Ill give you a shout to set up a time for me to swing by.
Everyone-
Let me know if you can make it so I can call u in the gate.
Lance Albrecht
8519 Ravenswood Rd
Granbury, Tx 76049
Coming from Arlington you will take 20 west, and exit 377 south. You will go through Benbrook, then Cresson. 6 miles past the rail road tracks in cresson you will turn left on 167. Fallow 167 all the way to the Pecan Plantation development. Turn right at the big white brick entrance. Tell the security guy your hear to see me. Go around the circle and turn right on Ravenswood. Ill be a couple miles down on the right.
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Black 1986.5 AT