Replacing vacuum pods.
08-10-2009, 01:00 PM
#16
Electron Wrangler
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Pod replecement for recirc has been done & documented by many - HermanK for one.
Removing the CE panel may seem dauting and I know many worry about it - but its actually very quick & easy as is reinstalltion. Mine has been in and out probably 10 times.
If you have ever had any leakage from this area - removal and resealing is probably the best idea. Its much easier to work on out of the car too. I agree removal of the blower is far more work than removal of the CE panel. Remocal of the air mixing box is a little more work and resealing it takes care... but I'd go this route if I needed to change it out.
Still you have created another option for those who don't want to touch the electricals... its all good.
Alan
Removing the CE panel may seem dauting and I know many worry about it - but its actually very quick & easy as is reinstalltion. Mine has been in and out probably 10 times.
If you have ever had any leakage from this area - removal and resealing is probably the best idea. Its much easier to work on out of the car too. I agree removal of the blower is far more work than removal of the CE panel. Remocal of the air mixing box is a little more work and resealing it takes care... but I'd go this route if I needed to change it out.
Still you have created another option for those who don't want to touch the electricals... its all good.
Alan
08-12-2009, 08:03 AM
#17
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The factory saw fit to put a rubber gasket between the blower and the recirc box. Buy leaving the hole open, you have quite effectively bypassed that gasket. The opening in the plastic drip tray that allows the washer hoses to pass through is directly above your new opening. I haven't had a recirc box out in a while, but I don't see how you cannot end up with water in the recirc box. Far more water, that is, than might otherwise end up there.
Unless there's something I missing, I think it would be a good idea to use some strip caulk or RTV to glue the circular part you cut out back into the box.
08-12-2009, 10:27 AM
#18
Team Owner
Colin this is an interesting way to tackle this job.
That said there are a few things to note. Removal of the blower box will also let you have access to the well this will let you remove all of the debris in there and there is usually a lot of leaves twigs and other deforming things.
Also the blower box should be removed to reseal it, cutting holes in the top portion will reduce the water resistance of this part and will probably cause a CE panel failure due to water contamination.
The blower motor doesnt have to be removed unless it being serviced ( usually a good idea to clean and lube the bearings)) and it can drop through the hole that was previously filled with the blower box, this is for cars from 83 on.
(DONT take off the hood or remove the blower from the top if you have removed the blower box, it will drops through the well hole.)
Removal of the blower box should also give you a chance to inspect the rear of the CE panel for corrosion or shiny wire insulation,(shiny, indicates a hot running wire). Plus to clean the hot wires and the ground points, on the top portion of the CE panel.
Place a towel over the CE panel prior to removing the blower box so any debris will not fall into it when the box is dropped.
Vacuum out the well and scrub it with a damp rag, clean out the well drain also.
Use 3M strip caulk to refill the flexible seal on the blower box.
The vacuum pod is connected to the actuator arm with a snap clip this will make it easy to replace the diaphram after the box is on the bench.
This is really an easy job if you take your time, and you might find that replacing the caulk and pod and blower motor service are easy
That said there are a few things to note. Removal of the blower box will also let you have access to the well this will let you remove all of the debris in there and there is usually a lot of leaves twigs and other deforming things.
Also the blower box should be removed to reseal it, cutting holes in the top portion will reduce the water resistance of this part and will probably cause a CE panel failure due to water contamination.
The blower motor doesnt have to be removed unless it being serviced ( usually a good idea to clean and lube the bearings)) and it can drop through the hole that was previously filled with the blower box, this is for cars from 83 on.
(DONT take off the hood or remove the blower from the top if you have removed the blower box, it will drops through the well hole.)
Removal of the blower box should also give you a chance to inspect the rear of the CE panel for corrosion or shiny wire insulation,(shiny, indicates a hot running wire). Plus to clean the hot wires and the ground points, on the top portion of the CE panel.
Place a towel over the CE panel prior to removing the blower box so any debris will not fall into it when the box is dropped.
Vacuum out the well and scrub it with a damp rag, clean out the well drain also.
Use 3M strip caulk to refill the flexible seal on the blower box.
The vacuum pod is connected to the actuator arm with a snap clip this will make it easy to replace the diaphram after the box is on the bench.
This is really an easy job if you take your time, and you might find that replacing the caulk and pod and blower motor service are easy
08-12-2009, 10:59 AM
#19
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08-12-2009, 03:57 PM
#20
Nordschleife Master
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I would like to address some of these comments.
The hole mearly removes material from the overhang. The blower motor seal is for the area that is over the opening into the cabin.
The plastic drip tray above this will let some water fall down infront of this area yes. However as the hood is directly above this area it cannot fall straight down in huge amounts. If there is a heavy rain, or hose etc. then due to the slant on the drip tray all the water should shoot straight forward hitting the back of the firewall which would then run straight down and out the drain immediately infront of that area. There is a high rim around the base of this to prevent the water from falling into this area instead of going out the drain which dumps the water into the engine bay.
Now you look at the box, the flap which has a seal on both sides, is either open or closed.
With the flap in the down (non recirc) any water particles would be lifted by the blower motor or evaperated by the heat of the interior compartment and sent into the heater/AC box, which would then go out the drain at the bottom of the box.
If the flap was in the up position (recirc) then the seal on this would prevent ALL water from being able to enter into this box regardless of how much of a storm was brewing.
Now looking at it in an unmodified presence.
The lip is not sealed to the firewall, it is not really sloped. And it is close to the firewall. So if you were in a heavy storm and there was alot of water running down the area right infront of it then it would bead along the underside and get pulled in from the fan, or the moment you went up an incline. This will introduce far more water into the recirc box than the mods I have made IMHO.
Again, I have driven, and parked the car in the rain for the past few days, this has been from a light drizzle to a downpour and still have no water coming in anywhere near the CE panel.
The other thing to note, I have never seen one of the recirc boxes leak onto the CE panel unless someone has removed it and not properly resealed it.
My way is no doubt not for everyone! And if you dont want to deduce the effects on your own or think about it yourself then do it the way the factory intended. I am mearly offering another suggestion to those who may want to tackle this via another method that saves a TON of time.
The hole mearly removes material from the overhang. The blower motor seal is for the area that is over the opening into the cabin.
The plastic drip tray above this will let some water fall down infront of this area yes. However as the hood is directly above this area it cannot fall straight down in huge amounts. If there is a heavy rain, or hose etc. then due to the slant on the drip tray all the water should shoot straight forward hitting the back of the firewall which would then run straight down and out the drain immediately infront of that area. There is a high rim around the base of this to prevent the water from falling into this area instead of going out the drain which dumps the water into the engine bay.
Now you look at the box, the flap which has a seal on both sides, is either open or closed.
With the flap in the down (non recirc) any water particles would be lifted by the blower motor or evaperated by the heat of the interior compartment and sent into the heater/AC box, which would then go out the drain at the bottom of the box.
If the flap was in the up position (recirc) then the seal on this would prevent ALL water from being able to enter into this box regardless of how much of a storm was brewing.
Now looking at it in an unmodified presence.
The lip is not sealed to the firewall, it is not really sloped. And it is close to the firewall. So if you were in a heavy storm and there was alot of water running down the area right infront of it then it would bead along the underside and get pulled in from the fan, or the moment you went up an incline. This will introduce far more water into the recirc box than the mods I have made IMHO.
Again, I have driven, and parked the car in the rain for the past few days, this has been from a light drizzle to a downpour and still have no water coming in anywhere near the CE panel.
The other thing to note, I have never seen one of the recirc boxes leak onto the CE panel unless someone has removed it and not properly resealed it.
My way is no doubt not for everyone! And if you dont want to deduce the effects on your own or think about it yourself then do it the way the factory intended. I am mearly offering another suggestion to those who may want to tackle this via another method that saves a TON of time.
08-13-2009, 10:46 AM
#21
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08-13-2009, 01:46 PM
#22
Team Owner
I have fixed about 20 of the blower box caulk seals and most if not all have been original, the sealing caulk will dry out and then it will leak.
Also not removing the blower box will prevent you from cleaning out the well and after time this could also cause a rust hole to develop due to wet decomposing materials, plus the debris will also clog the well drain.
The blower box flap only has a foam seal on it so if water should reach it it will not restrict water.
From your picture it looks like you put a hole in the umbrella, and you didnt clean out the well, I dont think this is a good modification
Also not removing the blower box will prevent you from cleaning out the well and after time this could also cause a rust hole to develop due to wet decomposing materials, plus the debris will also clog the well drain.
The blower box flap only has a foam seal on it so if water should reach it it will not restrict water.
From your picture it looks like you put a hole in the umbrella, and you didnt clean out the well, I dont think this is a good modification
08-14-2009, 02:40 AM
#23
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Stan,
That was a highjacked picture.
Up here we dont have to worry about this drying out at all. I have removed alot of these boxes, and everyone of them has still been extremely sticky. By simply removing the blower motor one can clean out all the debris in this area. Which you are right there always is alot of it.
That was a highjacked picture.
Up here we dont have to worry about this drying out at all. I have removed alot of these boxes, and everyone of them has still been extremely sticky. By simply removing the blower motor one can clean out all the debris in this area. Which you are right there always is alot of it.
