Leon Speed

PET '87-91 shows two different trans cooler lines, one with a flexible hose near the cats () and at the end, and one with just at the end. Which one do I have on my mid '89?

Thanks

Tom in Austin

Interesting question ... I've always wanted more info on how to decode those cryptic PET notes.

Looks like the key is what "MOD.07-12-88 (MOD.89)" means ... maybe it's a "manufactured-through" date showing that cars built until 7/12/08 have the old style with the flexible sections? Not sure how you'd know the specific date your car was built. In US, we get stickers on the door jamb showing just month and year.

sidehatch

You have to remove what you have then you will know.

Bill Ball

Notice part 19 in the second PET page. That will help you distinguish which lines you have. You should have the later solid ones with these connectors. Look for those connectors along the right side frame rail near the rear of the rear bellypan.

Leon Speed

I think it says MOD.87-12-88 (MOD.89) and before that "For cars with front muffler" (in retrospect maybe cars without cats) and "For cars with catalytic convertor" (MOD.87) and on the second PET page "For cars with catalytic convertor" 88-12/88 (MOD.89). So My guess would be for cars through '87 the first PET page and for '89 the second. Not sure about '88. To make it more confusing, there is a third PET page which is exactly the same as the second only difference being a screw and a plug near the temperature switch...

I think in Europe we get the date sticker too, but mine is missing (I guess removed when it was painted), but there are little tell-tales else where, in my case the date 19-5-89 drawn on the underside of the center arm rest.

I love the color of your car, very nice!

That would be my back up plan but I figured somebody with an '89 has gone this route before me.

Hey Bill, great info! I pointed the camera under the car and found them. Thanks a lot. Now I can make plans for the next project.

One more question: can these be changed without dropping the TT?

Vilhuer

I think there are actually three different setups.

1. 307-85
- All '87 MY cars with catalytic converters
- From beginning of '87 MY up to December 1988 made early '89 MY cars without catalytic converters

2. 307-86
- From begining of '88 MY up to November 1988 made early '89 MY cars with catalytic converter

3. 307-87
-From November 1988 made early '89 MY cars up to last '91 MY S4 with catalytic converter

This means there was change done during November 1988 where catalytic converter cars made early in month have 307-86 and cars made late in month have 307-87 setup. Difference between those setups is key what parts to get. Also only A28/16 gearbox can have 307-87 setup while earlier two setups were used in A28/12 and A28/14 also.

Its likely non cat cars were available after December 1988 only in very few markets like Saudi Arabia.

ammonman

Just the exhaust and heat shields had to come out when I did this on my '90 S4.

Mike

Bill Ball

Erkka brings up a good point. If you have an A28/16 tranny (check your option sticker in the hatch area), it could be the third configuration, and that hose has a different PN. My 89 is an A28/16 and my VIN ends in 0213, so it's fairly early but I'm actually not sure which hose I have.

Vilhuer

Total US '89 MY production was 1190 cars. Spreading this evenly along entire model year would mean 99 cars per month. As production started in July, November production would be around 0360-0460 when first car was VIN 0061. But there is problem in direct split to 12 as first US '89 GT was 1100 and it was made in February or March. Steady split would say 0650-0850 should be done at the time. As they were done earlier and most likely already during late 1988 calendar year actual November change point was very likely several 100 VIN's higher than 0460. Perhaps up to VIN 0900+. Based on first GT VIN its obvious recession kicked in during early '89 MY and US model monthly production slowed down a lot.

In ROW recession came little later and '89 MY production was actually larger than '88 MY. 2428 '89 ROW's mean November steady production would be 0670-0870. As first ROW GT was very likely 1585 small adjustment upwards might have to be made to November change point in ROW VIN's also. I think change could be somewhere between 0750-0950 depending on when during November actual change happened.

There is likely some factory document which has exact VIN's. Could be even in Morehouse CD's but I'm too lazy to search.

Bill Ball

Erkka: So my car appears to be early 89, therefore probably the 2nd of the 3 configurations, but unless your VIN is real high or low, sidehatch's suggestion may apply after all, but even after pulling the hose, unless it has a PN on it, I'm not sure how you would know. I ordered the leftside hose this week and Tom at 928Intl and I thought it would be the 2nd one. We'll see after I get it. It's not obvious to me where that extra 14x1.5 screw shown in the PET 3rd configuration is.

Aryan - what are the last 4 digits of your VIN?

Leon Speed

Mike: thanks for the feed back. That means I don't have to combine it necessarily with a (still to be planned) torque tube bearing job.

Erkka: thanks for the clarification on the on the numbers! Let me see if I can find some further info in the service manuals.

Bill: my last four digits are 2164, so pretty late in the production run. The gearbox is A28/16, so I guess the third PET diagram applies for mine.

Tampa 928s

I have had my hoses rebuilt penny's on the Dollar/Euro. Do you have a re-builder in your area? As an option order high pressure hydraulic hose, cut the ring off of the fitting with a drumal tool. Cut to size and use Two good clamps soaked in red lock tight.

ammonman

I'll second Tampa's recommendation to find a shop that can rebuild the hoses. I had all the AT lines, both oil cooler lines, and the PS high pressure line rebuilt for around $400US. The shop was even able to recover the orifice fitting in the HP line for the PS. All lines have the latest technology hose and really nice looking crimped ferrules. I had to make about six phone calls to track down a shop that could do them. I just started with a call to a local hydraulics repair shop and followed the trail. I think it ended up saving me around $800US. If you go this route, be sure to use some Whiteout typing correction fluid or other marking method to indicate the relative position of each hose section to the hard line. Most of mine that had started to leak would turn at the crimped ferules quite easily.

Mike

Mike

Tampa 928s

You know just getting your own hose you can cut to size, the crimped ferrules can be cut off and clamps will hold it fine! I did this on my lines, very easy to do, but getting them rebuilt is a good option.

Leon Speed

I guess rebuilding is an option, I saw shop nearby that builds hydraulic lines. I am not sure how much pressure is on the feed line but can't imagine that it is much.