Tampa 928s

The idea is that being an L-jet this would allow for tuning of a twin/turbo set-up. If I help out on this one I want to make sure it's already been done and it really works.

123quattro

It's also better control that allows better driveability. That, and dumping the barn door air volume meter is a bonus in terms of performance. This only makes sense for someone who is boosting an engine, or has failed an expensive component(s) (~$750 or more) of the factory system.

Lizard928

Whoops, it has gone up slightly from $200 - $247

I was refering to MSII as seen here.

You can do this to ANY gas engine, once tuned properly will have better driveability than stock, better fuel economy, newer technology. And many other great features. Plus you can ditch as was said the barn door setup.

Keep in mind though if you do this using stock L-jet injectors (I wouldnt recommend it) then you will need to make some mods to the board to be able to run 8 low impedence injectors. Or you will need to put the right size of resistors inline.

Fabio421

It works and can be fitted to any engine if you know what your doing ( we don't). Since you're the electronics guy in the group, I vote you to be project leader. I'll buy one too so we can screw up two engines..I mean build two at one time.

Lizard, do the MS product support a knock sensor? I haven't seen any mention of this.

Lizard928

yes MSII does support Knock control. But it is not uber advanced. You will need to solder more things onto the board and use it in conjunction with a product called knocklite I think.

If you want to start getting into Knock control and other fancy features then consider VEMS instead. It can also do EGT targetting and all you have to do is plug the items in. But the brain is around $800

123quattro

Knock control is tough because it isn't as simple as it sounds. Engines make lots of mechanical noise. When they knock the block rings at a specific frequency. 1. you need to know that frequency 2. you need to not mis-trigger based on all the other mechanical noise. 3. you need to look at the timing window just before and after when you are expecting ignition.

From an OEM standpoint it isn't hard to do at all, but from a stand-alone perspective it's tough. You don't have access to high speed cylinder pressure vs. crank angle data to tune your knock model. You also don't know what frequency your block rings at. You also don't know how to relate the ringing and crankshaft acceleration/deceleration with which cylinder it happened in.

I'd skip on the knock control. With good control, you should be fine without it.

Tampa 928s

I was hoping to beta test this on the aforementioned Ginnie pigs first then do my 86 S/C.
Although it would be nice to have a mapping file to load on start up.

Lizard928

I could provide you base maps, I will respond to your email tonight or tomorrow btw.

As to the knock control. It is pretty easy to figure out what is mechanical noise and what is the knocks. As well these engines are pretty quiet. I know a 924 that added knock control, it was useless above 3krpm as there was too much engine noise.

entropy_engineering

Hey guys I'd be interested in being in on some megasquirt discussion. Has anyone looked at msextra? Megasquirt with knock control can be added with one of these units... http://www.viatrack.ca/ . Also, if you're not sure with knock threshold you can check it with bone stock (and no boost) timing and tweak the threshold for no knock. Then you know what's real. I currently have an edis 8 unit and vr sensor I plan to use, but I think I'd rather have the gm dis unit. Any thoughts? Lizard, if you can help or want to share start up files I would be interested in some base maps, but I'm running 590cc injectors.

Also, I put a post up a while back about a single turbo kit I'm quietly working on. I'm curious about the tps unit. I have two throttle bodies joined by a shaft with the tps on the back of the second one. I wonder if any clearance in the linkage will jitter the tps signal enough to throw off acceleration fueling. I would love any support as I go.

Fabio421

OK, this project lives on. The first car has been in linbo for quite awile due to 928TT's current job committments so we are moving forward with car number two.

I've purchased a Megasquirt III with the MSXIII expansion board. This is the top of the line Megasquirt available at this time. I doubt I'll use most of the features but I thought it was best to have option that I don't need than to need options that I don't have.

What is a good source for the EDIS components? I found someone in the UK but there has to be someone closer. Any suggestions?

On Mark Kuhn's car we installed the toothed timing wheel in place of the A/C pulley since his A/C wasn't working at the time. That IS NOT an option for my car. It seems like there is plenty of roon on the stock crank pulley to weld the timing ring in between the air pump pulley and alternator pulley. There is 3/8" between these two pulleys and the toothed wheel I am using is only 5mm thick so there seems to be ZERO reason to lose the A/C when doing one of these installs.

On Mark's car I installed the intake air temperature sensor into the front of the center plenum just to the right of the port that the automatic's use. I have no problem installing one there again but I have to ask, doesn't the stock ( L-Jet ) engine management have an intake air sensor somewhere already? If so, where is it? I already bought the "GM" IAT sensor but I'd rather retain stock sensore when possible. Staying with this theme I plan on trying to utilize the stock coolant temp sensor. It requires calibration of the MSIII but I'd rather do that than drill and tap the water bridge for the larger 3/8" NPT threads required for the GM sensor.

Tom. M

Check ebay...or your local junk yard for the EDIS stuff...available on many Ford V8's...

I haven't done this but looking at the a/c pulley....wonder if it could be "cut" as the timing ring (very close in diameter to the one I got from Colin). Just cut notches on the one side of the pulley where the belt sits..not sure if the belt would interfere...or if it wouldn't be strong enough to hold the belt in place being notched...but just a thought..

We used the GM AIT..and mounted in on the underside of the air box..(91 S4 engine).

I used the stock water temp sensor too...just need to calibrate in the software like you mentioned..as I didn't want to drill into the water bridge for the GM style sensor...

Let us know how it goes...

BigAl1

I made my 36-1 ring sit just on the back flange of the AC pulley "V", so its not in the way of any belts, and the crank dampener shape sits into it just slightly.

Fabio421

I thought about the same thing but there were two concerns. One was that the notches would cause premature belt failure. Second was that there wasn't enough material, meaning the pully wasn't thisk enough, to give a good solid signal. That concern may not be warranted but like I said, there seems to be plenty of room to mount the toothed wheel in the gap between the air pum pulley and the alternator pulley. I'll post a pic when the wheel arrives.

I cannot mount my IAT sensor in the airbox becasue this is a draw through turbo setup. The air temp in the airbox is going to be cooler than the air temp. in the plennum.

shadowknight

any progress on the MSIII