81 OB running bad need advice(Change to Timing Belt Issue)
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Ok guys here's what's up. I went on the OCIC run on Sunday with the guys. Car was running excellent. We raced all over the freeways. Had a blast. After one of the 100mph runs car started to run funny. Motor kinda had a funny vibration and weak power. Cut back to 60-70 mph and the problem went away. Drove for a while again did a high speed run again car seemed a little weak and the problem came back. Seems if I do a high speed run the problem will return. I drove 3hrs home doing 60-70 with not too much trouble except for excessive gas use. Mileage was very bad. Car did seem noticeable weak on acceleration. Ok what I have now is it's running very rich and acceleration is weak. I was originally thinking fuel filter or pump but that wouldn't lead to a rich condition. One other note when it started running bad I assume too rich that the temp on the car seemed to be higher than normal. I haven't done any trouble shooting yet but I thought I'd give you guys the symptoms to see if you have any idea's. On a side note I did have to do a repair on the green wire a while back and the coil is new.
Last edited by 6mil928; 08-16-2009 at 07:21 PM.
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Ok guys here's what's up. I went on the OCIC run on Sunday with the guys. Car was running excellent. We raced all over the freeways. Had a blast. After one of the 100mph runs car started to run funny. Motor kinda had a funny vibration and weak power. Cut back to 60-70 mph and the problem went away. Drove for a while again did a high speed run again car seemed a little weak and the problem came back. Seems if I do a high speed run the problem will return. I drove 3hrs home doing 60-70 with not too much trouble except for excessive gas use. Mileage was very bad. Car did seem noticeable weak on acceleration. Ok what I have now is it's running very rich and acceleration is weak. I was originally thinking fuel filter or pump but that wouldn't lead to a rich condition. One other note when it started running bad I assume too rich that the temp on the car seemed to be higher than normal. I haven't done any trouble shooting yet but I thought I'd give you guys the symptoms to see if you have any idea's. On a side note I did have to do a repair on the green wire a while back and the coil is new.
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The Temp II is the one going straight down into the water bridge. There are three sensors on our car. Time Temp switch vertical front, Temp II switch horizontal in the middle of the bridge and temp sending unit at the back of the bridge.
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I have no reading complete open on both pins to ground. I used the bolt to the cross member. I may try a ground on the motor just incase. Your sure it's pin to ground correct? I would ohm both pins and the ohm would rise as the curent flowed through the pins.
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Found a post from Wallyp
******************
If that is not a problem, you need to check the Temp II sensor. This is a dual-sensor package sensor on the top front of the engine, with one sensor giving the ignition ECU the coolant temp and the other sensor giving the injection ECU the coolant temp. If the injection ECU thinks that the engine is cold when it is actually warm, it will richen the fuel/air mixture enough to make hot starts difficult.
You test from each pin in the little rectangular housing to engine ground using an Ohmmeter or multimeter - never from pin-to-pin.
At normal ambient temperature (60-80 deg F) the resistance should be 1.4 - 3.6 kOhms. Note the "k".
At normal engine operating temperature (176 deg F) the resistance should be 250 - 390 Ohms. Note that there is no "k".
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If that is not a problem, you need to check the Temp II sensor. This is a dual-sensor package sensor on the top front of the engine, with one sensor giving the ignition ECU the coolant temp and the other sensor giving the injection ECU the coolant temp. If the injection ECU thinks that the engine is cold when it is actually warm, it will richen the fuel/air mixture enough to make hot starts difficult.
You test from each pin in the little rectangular housing to engine ground using an Ohmmeter or multimeter - never from pin-to-pin.
At normal ambient temperature (60-80 deg F) the resistance should be 1.4 - 3.6 kOhms. Note the "k".
At normal engine operating temperature (176 deg F) the resistance should be 250 - 390 Ohms. Note that there is no "k".
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Also at this point visual and ear inspection looks good. Going a little more indepth when I get home tonight.
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Found a post from Wallyp
******************
If that is not a problem, you need to check the Temp II sensor. This is a dual-sensor package sensor on the top front of the engine, with one sensor giving the ignition ECU the coolant temp and the other sensor giving the injection ECU the coolant temp. If the injection ECU thinks that the engine is cold when it is actually warm, it will richen the fuel/air mixture enough to make hot starts difficult.
You test from each pin in the little rectangular housing to engine ground using an Ohmmeter or multimeter - never from pin-to-pin.
At normal ambient temperature (60-80 deg F) the resistance should be 1.4 - 3.6 kOhms. Note the "k".
At normal engine operating temperature (176 deg F) the resistance should be 250 - 390 Ohms. Note that there is no "k".
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Wally Plumley
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******************
If that is not a problem, you need to check the Temp II sensor. This is a dual-sensor package sensor on the top front of the engine, with one sensor giving the ignition ECU the coolant temp and the other sensor giving the injection ECU the coolant temp. If the injection ECU thinks that the engine is cold when it is actually warm, it will richen the fuel/air mixture enough to make hot starts difficult.
You test from each pin in the little rectangular housing to engine ground using an Ohmmeter or multimeter - never from pin-to-pin.
At normal ambient temperature (60-80 deg F) the resistance should be 1.4 - 3.6 kOhms. Note the "k".
At normal engine operating temperature (176 deg F) the resistance should be 250 - 390 Ohms. Note that there is no "k".
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on the 81, it is a measurement BETWEEN the pins, not a measurement between each pin and grounds, that is not until the LH. (BTW, on an LH temp2 you wouldn't get a reading between the pins)
Your 277 reading that was at what temp? You should get a cold reading and a reading at operating temp.
Vacuum hoses usually create lean conditions.
Temp2, afm, FPR, injectors can all cause rich conditions, what else?
However, from your symptoms this could also be alot of other things. Bad gas mileage and low power can be lots of stuff including spark etc...
I would think to open the hood and start simple. Touch everything to see it is ok and secured properly, check the distributer cap, rotor, do firefly test, check for loose connectors etc., do all the easy stuff
Your 277 reading that was at what temp? You should get a cold reading and a reading at operating temp.
Vacuum hoses usually create lean conditions.
Temp2, afm, FPR, injectors can all cause rich conditions, what else?
However, from your symptoms this could also be alot of other things. Bad gas mileage and low power can be lots of stuff including spark etc...
I would think to open the hood and start simple. Touch everything to see it is ok and secured properly, check the distributer cap, rotor, do firefly test, check for loose connectors etc., do all the easy stuff