Pinning rear Weisache (how do you do it)
09-04-2009, 11:34 AM
#46
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
thanks Carl! Finally, after all these years, i can see what the "pinning " looks like. So, you just drill a hole all the way through? Is the entire center filled with the rubber bushing with a smaller diameter steel shaft from the arm?
Its hard to see how that moves all that much, but what an interesting design.
mk
Its hard to see how that moves all that much, but what an interesting design.
mk
Will these help?
One nice thing is that its reversable. If you dont like it, take the bolt back out. No harm, no foul.
It is not an issue of just having more HP or wider-than-stock tires. Higher wheel offsets that widen the track are the largest single factor (IMHO) in changing this geometry such that the amount of movement allowed by the stock Weissach is now too much because you have now lengthened the torque-lever arm on the suspension member.
I happen to like it, but my rear track is now 66" (measured at he centerline of 315 rear tires)
One nice thing is that its reversable. If you dont like it, take the bolt back out. No harm, no foul.
It is not an issue of just having more HP or wider-than-stock tires. Higher wheel offsets that widen the track are the largest single factor (IMHO) in changing this geometry such that the amount of movement allowed by the stock Weissach is now too much because you have now lengthened the torque-lever arm on the suspension member.
I happen to like it, but my rear track is now 66" (measured at he centerline of 315 rear tires)
09-04-2009, 11:34 AM
#47
Developer
Mark - another thing you might want to check....
we found that once we got the car setup so we were pushing 1.2 G's and up laterally in the corners we could not keep the rear camber where we wanted it (I like -2 deg).
What would happen was the lateral forces on the tire/wheel were enough to turn the camber eccentrics around to their innermost setting, about -4 deg.
We'd put the camber back to -2, tighten the bolt to spec or even higher than spec, and still we would come off the racetrack after a few laps at -4 deg again.
The cure was to also pin the rear camber eccentrics. We took the eccentric bolt out and drilled a hole for a M6 bolt through the collar on a drill press.
Then installed them back in the car, set the Camber, and drilled and tapped a M6 hole in the crossmember. A M6 bolt acts as a setscrew to prevent them from turning.
Has worked fine so far this whole season, and now we measure 1.4 Lateral G's in corners.
Hope this helps,
we found that once we got the car setup so we were pushing 1.2 G's and up laterally in the corners we could not keep the rear camber where we wanted it (I like -2 deg).
What would happen was the lateral forces on the tire/wheel were enough to turn the camber eccentrics around to their innermost setting, about -4 deg.
We'd put the camber back to -2, tighten the bolt to spec or even higher than spec, and still we would come off the racetrack after a few laps at -4 deg again.
The cure was to also pin the rear camber eccentrics. We took the eccentric bolt out and drilled a hole for a M6 bolt through the collar on a drill press.
Then installed them back in the car, set the Camber, and drilled and tapped a M6 hole in the crossmember. A M6 bolt acts as a setscrew to prevent them from turning.
Has worked fine so far this whole season, and now we measure 1.4 Lateral G's in corners.
Hope this helps,
