smell gas in car
#1
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I can't find any leakes, but when I stop at a traffic light I can smell gas in the car. It's over a 102 here in Vegas today, could the heat be a factor? My 928 is an 87 S4, black on black, auto, 112,000 miles in excellent condition. Any help will be very welcome. I dont drive it very often. Thanks,Joe
87 928 S4
Blk on Blk
auto
87 928 S4
Blk on Blk
auto
#4
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Also the "Y" connector in the passenger front wheel well that goes to the charcole cannister is plastic and breaks into several pieces. It's right near the HVAC inlet screen and will cause a gas smell in the cabin. Call Rog100 at 928s-R-Us for a stainless steel version and never worry about it again.
#5
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Ok, thanks guys. I never thought to look in back, will do after the sun goes down. It rained the other day here, and it's still humid and very miserable. my swamp cooler aint cutting it in the garage. Thanks, Joe
#6
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The plastic nut seems to be a common problem. I was told to put the nut in boiling/hot water for a little while then install it. When it cools, it'll shrink just a little and stay tight. Mine leaked within a month of having it removed and reinstalled without the hot water. The second time with the hot water, it hasn't leaked since - going on 7 years.
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#8
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Don't want to be a 'Nattering Nabob of Negativity" here, but if it isn't the big plastic nut in the back or the cannister connector, check your underhood fuel lines real soon! They may look O.K., but may be a B.B.Q. waiting to happen.
#9
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+1 and you're going to hear this again and again- the original fuel lines on our cars are getting old and very vulnerable, so whether you suspect a leak elsewhere, if these haven't been renewed, they should be. It is way too big a risk to take vs a negligible investment in time and money to fix. Even if you find out it is the Y connector or something else, do the fuel lines!
#10
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the hot water for the fuel tank nut trick is outlined in the WSM
To get to the Y connector the wheel and inner fender liner should be removed, also check the washer tank, remove the transition hose and see if the metal collars are rusted.
If so now would be a good time to remove them as well as removing the tank and cleaning out the rusty fluid.l
To get to the Y connector the wheel and inner fender liner should be removed, also check the washer tank, remove the transition hose and see if the metal collars are rusted.
If so now would be a good time to remove them as well as removing the tank and cleaning out the rusty fluid.l
#11
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I'll just throw this out there... The PO of my 84 mounted a bunch of stereo amps and stuff by screwing it down in the rear hatch area. Unfortunately, the screws went through the top of the tank. Like you, I had a smell of gas when stopping or anything that splashed the gas around. Just say'n in case your PO mounted something back there. Good luck! / Bruce
#12
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Thanks, you've all made great suggestions. I'am going to be checking all of them. I have about 100 reciepts for work the PO had done to this car before I bought it early this year. Fuel lines are not on any of these reciepts; I was going to replace the fuel lines this summer anyway. Is there a kit from one of our vendors or is this a dealer item? I would hate for my car to go up in smoke. Thanks again, Joe
#13
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Thanks, you've all made great suggestions. I'am going to be checking all of them. I have about 100 reciepts for work the PO had done to this car before I bought it early this year. Fuel lines are not on any of these reciepts; I was going to replace the fuel lines this summer anyway. Is there a kit from one of our vendors or is this a dealer item? I would hate for my car to go up in smoke. Thanks again, Joe
There's a rubber-hose link in the metal fuel line from the tank (the line that crosses over the pass-side cam cover), a hose between the fuel rails across the front (still available from Porsche and included in Roger's kit), the infamous "u-shaped" hose across the back (under the air-filter box), no longer available and too tight a radius for stock hose (Roger includes a pre-formed hose), and a (low-pressure but still flammable) hose link in the return line. The kit includes hose and EFI clamps for those two hose segments, just cut off the factory swage-collars and replace with hose and EFI clamps.
Checking fuel hoses by flexing them is fine, as long as you are sure that the flexibility is NOT caused by a bunch of cracks
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Last edited by jcorenman; 07-26-2009 at 11:21 PM. Reason: oops, bad link...
#14
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The y-connector (see pic from my car just after I got it) is the most common fault, but check the entire system as others already advised.
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#15
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and just behind the Y connector is the washer bottle transition hose pull it off and check , if your washer fill spout is deteriorated then replace it , the new metal collar comes out by dipping the end of the fill spout into hot water then it slides out