Randy V

OK guys, I'm on it.

Got me one of these and a can of chill:

http://www.id-usa.com/video/interdyn...Media-DSL).wmv

Bill Ball

OK, sure, trust the little blue area on the gauge on the can tap. If everything works OK, wonderful. My comments about preferring to measure the high pressure as well are related to diagnostics. Right now Randy has a system that is not working. It may have nothing to do with the charge level. If the high side pressure never goes up, he has a bad compressor. If there is no pressure at all before charging, he has a serious leak that needs fixing first and the system needs to be evacuated of air and moisture before charging. If the pressures are up but there is no cooling, then there is a block probably at the expansion valve.

Anyway, I hope it's as simple as a top-off but I prefer not to do it that way. The need to top-off, especially if it's every year, means there is a leak that needs to be fixed.

zoltan944

My understanding was he bought a can at the parts store to top off a little?
If that's not the case you should get a full gauge set and do a full work up

Randy V

Yes, just a top-off.

My AC still blows cool, but not cold like it use to.

It's been about 4 years since it was last serviced, so any leak is pretty minimal.

WallyP

Randy,

Again - CHECK THE CAN! Make sure that the stuff that you bought does NOT contain anything except R-134a. No sealer, sealant, additive, super mouse-milk, etc., etc.

Every "kit" that I looked at included sealant...

Randy V

Yes, Wally - I heeded your original advice. Thanks.

I got the pure stuff in a can from DuPont - no sealer. This was not a kit.

Hold On

Good luck go for it....and keep the can upright...

Scotts87928

Randy, before dropping in refrigerant check the basics. Doesn't the '94 MY have a cabin filter? Make sure it it clean. Remove the filter and check the evaporator and make sure that is clean. Make sure your heater valve is closing all the way. No one on this list has dealt with that problem? Also verify that the condenser is clean and free of debris. In addition, check between the radiator and the condenser but then you might have an engine running hot condition too.

Is the AC colder when the car is on the freeway? Maybe 5 degrees cooler when the car is moving along at 55 (or 155 for that matter) as compared to sitting in the driveway. Are the fans working properly? What is the current outlet temp at the full open center vent with the AC on max. Check the line set and any connections that you can see for oil and dirt accumulating at those points to indicate a leak. Is the AC at the rear similar to the front?

Don't forget to wear gloves and safety glasses if you add refrigerant.

And Get Er Done!
Scott
'87 Red/Black 5 sp Gemballa
'89 Black/Linen Roger box

jcorenman

Question for the experts: Does the sight-glass mean anything for R-134a?

My experience is all with R-12 (a card-carrying EPA "ex-spurt"), and the sight-glass on the top of dryer/accumulator is generally a good indication of the state of charge.

Clean off the grunge, have your sweety fire off the system (start engine, push the AC button) while you watch the glass:
It starts clear (i.e. gas), then looks foamy for a few seconds as pressure builds, then perhaps a few bubbles, then clears within a few more seconds as it fills with liquid freon. You need to watch carefully, because gas (no pressure) and liquid freon both look clear. If it stays foamy or bubbly then it needs more freon.

Does also this work for 134a?

Thanks,

Herman K

Randy what temperatures are you getting after topping up with 134

zoltan944

This works if your car is original R134, not if its was converted

WallyP

"Question for the experts: Does the sight-glass mean anything for R-134a?

My experience is all with R-12 (a card-carrying EPA "ex-spurt"), and the sight-glass on the top of dryer/accumulator is generally a good indication of the state of charge.

Clean off the grunge, have your sweety fire off the system (start engine, push the AC button) while you watch the glass:
It starts clear (i.e. gas), then looks foamy for a few seconds as pressure builds, then perhaps a few bubbles, then clears within a few more seconds as it fills with liquid freon. You need to watch carefully, because gas (no pressure) and liquid freon both look clear. If it stays foamy or bubbly then it needs more freon.

Does also this work for 134a?"

Well, sorta - but not entirely.

On a factory system with PAG oil and no contamination, the sight glass can give some indication, but R-134a is likely to have bubbles even when properly charged.

On a converted system, you will probably have bubbles, occasional foam, and occasional cloudiness thru the sight glass.

Most of the new R-134a factory systems no longer include the sight glass.

VehiGAZ

FWIW, R134a with leak dye will not harm (clog) your system, and will make it easy to diagnose a leak down the road.

ROG100

For the record the 92 GTS's (early 93 in the USA) were R12.
93 cars were R134a.

jcorenman

Sean, Wally, many thanks!! (Another reason to stick with R12 )

Cheers,