leperboy

I need to adjust my passenger side front wheel bearing but am having trouble removing the hub cap. I have the 1 3/4" exhaust clamp and a slide hammer. I installed the clamp on the hub cap and clamped the slide hammer jaws onto it. But that won't budge the cap before the clamp loses purchase.

So, what should I try next to free up the hub cap?

Thanks,
Matt

Hilton

I got a piece of metal pipe with 4mm walls that fitted over the cap. Drilled 4 5mm holes at the compass points and tapped them for M6 bolts. Then just screwed the bolts in until they were all in the groove around the mushroom of the cap, and then levered it off against the edge of the pipe.

Landseer

Thats seems like a good way, thanks.

I've put a clamp around it, like a muffler clamp, except for my DTV antenna, then beat on the clamp with a hammer.

Also have been just able to use a flathead screwdriver to get a bite on the indented edge and hit the screwdriver with a hammer and knock them off.

Mrmerlin

take a torch and heat the hub area where the cap seats, it should come right out since the hub is aluminum it expands quicker than steel

Cosmo Kramer

I used the muffler clamp and the end of a wrecking bar to pry mine off. Not the most technical solution, but it worked!

Tom in Austin

I put a cold chisel beneath the lip and go around the hub tapping the cap to work it off. Not hard, just takes a few minutes to get it moving ...

SeanR

x2, just rotate it around as you tap on it. Might need to give it a good wack the first couple of times but I've never had any problem getting them off this way, and no damage either.

leperboy

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I will try some heat on the hub with the clamp/hammer first. Failing that, I will move on to the cold chisel.

I read a lot of people saying the cap was a pain to remove, but I had no idea until two hours in last night.

Matt

James Bailey

The hammer and punch works great just keep turning and tapping and the cap cap starts to walk away from the hub. Angle the top of the punch in as far as possible and it should start moving as you tapp. At first a small amount so rotate and continue it is one of those things which AFTER you master it you wonder why it is so easy It does make small marks on the cap that may not be OK for some .

Warren928

I did that along with an air hammer on the edges (flat blade attachment) and it came right off.

dr bob

I used a spare piece of hardwood floor about 6" long, set one end against the bevel, othere nd tight on the hub. Wacked it with a hammer, moved the hub a little and hit it again. Once it started it was pretty easy. The advantage of the wood 'drift' is that there is absolutely no scarring on the cap. The clamps, slide hammers, chisels, et., all leave scarring.

StratfordShark

3/8 socket extension piece works well for fitting in the groove of cap.

Just keep working round 3 points on circumference tapping outwards. The extension doesn't mark the cap.

leperboy

Okay, I'm ready for the next round of suggestions. Heat, cold chisels, more slide hammer, cold chisel, slide hammer, etc, etc, hasn't moved it one millimeter.

Matt

Rob Edwards

Matt-

If you get desperate and can wait for it, I have the factory tool (9165) that I could mail to you. It fits the HF/Pittsburg slide hammer perfectly:

Mrmerlin

that looks like trouble.
Matt if you want, come on over and I will get the cap off