Imo000

I've finally restarted the re assembly of my '85 but have one issue that Search didn't help me with. What type of Loctite do I need to use on the end cap for the cams? I'm not refering to the black round puck seals but the caps/bearings that are at the front and the back of the cams. The intake and exhaust caps are one pice and remember someone telling me that, since they are passed the valve cover gasket, they need to have a sealant applied during re assembly of the cams. otherwise oil will seap out and drip onto the exhaust manifold ( I had this problem ever since I first put the engine together back on '02).

blown 87

574 with a short nap roller, and just a film of it.

Rob Edwards

You should absolutely not trust anything I say regarding engine assembly (having never assembled one....), but when I disassembled the GT motor and the GTS motor, both had the same loctite 574-looking stuff under the cam caps as they did between the block and the girdle. Both gave the same whiff of anaerobic sealer when I lifted the caps off the surface of the head.

Decent loctite 574 discussion if you haven't seen it:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-bearings.html

Imo000

Thanks you, this is what I was after and thanks for the link too. Excellent tread.

Imo000

Is there a Permatex or ther equivalent of the Loctite 574? No one in Ontraio seems to have it in stock and don't really feel like waiting for a week and a half for them to order one in from the US.

blown 87

Get some from a source that has a lot of turnover, I would wait to get the right stuff.
That being said, Volvo and MB both have a sealant that might work.

nosnow

get the loctite, I tried permatex and ended up having to redo it. spend the extra and do it right the first time.

Imo000

Thaks for he reply but you don't happen to know the Benz or Volvo product name would you?

Years ago when I was a teenager back in Europe, I've used Hermetik to seal up motorcycle engine cases and the Loctite 574 seems like a simmilar product to it. If I could smell it, I woud be able to tell it they are the same or not. Hermetik has a very uniqie smell that sticks with you forever.

blown 87

The Volvo stuff is in a 50 ML tube, kind of pink in color it has some numbers below where it says Volvo 1161059-3 (no idea if that is the part number or not) says "Chemical Gasket" "High temperature"
Just ask for the stuff for the cam covers for a 850

There are a couple of others this one is made by Elring "Curil K2, I seem to remember getting it from Volvo or MB once instead of the branded stuff, I did not use it as I want to use the right product, they said it is the same, but it smells different and is yellow in color.

I did not have any of the MB stuff, so I do not have any numbers for it.
Remember, clean and quick when you are going back with it.
I would still wait and get the 574 if it were my motor though.

Good luck

oz928s4

I had a problem getting the 574 in Ozzy so the Loctite rep put me on to Loctite 518 ...no probs to date

Bill Ball

518 looks quite similar to 574. Both are anaerobic sealers that cure at about the same rate.

574: http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93789_574EN.pdf
518: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/40179.pdf

oz928s4

nice to know Bill

Big Dave

Imre....I've got exactly the leak you're trying to prevent. Is it possible to remove the front caps without removing the cam gears? When I dove into this the first time, I got the cam cover off, but stopped when it looked like I would need to remove the cam belt, the gear and rear timing belt cover/plate to gain access to all the bolts necessary to pull that cap off.

Imo000

I’ve tried but couldn’t find a way to remove the front cap without removing the cam gear and backing plate. The main problem is not so much the 2 bolts that hold the backing plate to the cap as those can be, with some effort, removed while the cam gear is in place but the real problem is the lip of the cap that goes into the backing plate. For this, the backing plate has to be moved far enough away from the cap so the lip of the cam cap does not interfere with the plate. For this the cam gear needs to be pulled forward and since you need to loosen the T-belt, might as well remove the gear complexly. To keep everything lined up, the best is to move the timing a bit passed O/T, so the cams are not loaded up. This way when the cam gear is loosened, the cams will not want to jump back or forward (as they do when it’s on O/T) To make sure that the timing stayed spot on, I’ve zip tied the each gear to the timing belt and marked the harmonic balancer too. This way the gears stayed where they need to be and re installing them was a lot easier too.

I hope this helps.

Lizard928

Imre,

I just got a bottle of the stuff from Napa,

It can also be obtained from Acklands Grainger, or Sabre industrial supplies.

HTH