Hammer in North Jersey
07-20-2009, 05:44 PM
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Hammer in North Jersey
Hi Everyone,
Anyone have a "Hammer" diagnostic tool that I can hook up to my 1991 928 S4 in Norther New Jersey?
I am more than happy to compensate.
Thanks,
Alan
Anyone have a "Hammer" diagnostic tool that I can hook up to my 1991 928 S4 in Norther New Jersey?
I am more than happy to compensate.
Thanks,
Alan
07-21-2009, 12:22 AM
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Some one must have a Hammer or a Spanner or a Theo tool.
Can anyone help Alan please.
Can anyone help Alan please.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
07-21-2009, 12:20 PM
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I have one but would need to verify that it is working, needs a charging at minimum and might need the software loaded but not sure. Where are you located and what is the problem? I have the code books too which help tremendously.
07-21-2009, 12:38 PM
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Alan,
I have Theo's tool that does the same thing as the Hammer, but I am South of Philadelphia.
If you have a check engine light, you can read out the code and know the cause with no tools.
What problem are you trying to solve?
I have Theo's tool that does the same thing as the Hammer, but I am South of Philadelphia.
If you have a check engine light, you can read out the code and know the cause with no tools.
What problem are you trying to solve?
07-21-2009, 02:17 PM
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Hi Anthony and Earl - I am in Wayne NJ (Passaic County - Northwest NJ).
The error code I had was 1115 - On another post I have - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ine-light.html. And if you see my last comment, I did nothing and the code went away by itself. It was highly recommended that I hook up a Hammer or even a "Theos" tool to it to see if there could be anything that perhaps might have been cached.
Last night I did disconnect the negative wire for about 10 minutes and the engine did not come back on, but keep in mind that it went away by itself even before I did the disconnect.
On cold my car starts up fine and idles at around 1500 rpm. Then it gradually goes down when it warms up and idles at about 700 to 800 rpm. Once in a while when I come to a stop, there is a little hickup.
I just did a intake manifold job and it is running much better than it did before, but even before the intake manifold job, I had no check engine light.
Can we arrange something? Would anyone be willing to ship to me and then I can ship back?
Thanks all for your time,
Alan
The error code I had was 1115 - On another post I have - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ine-light.html. And if you see my last comment, I did nothing and the code went away by itself. It was highly recommended that I hook up a Hammer or even a "Theos" tool to it to see if there could be anything that perhaps might have been cached.
Last night I did disconnect the negative wire for about 10 minutes and the engine did not come back on, but keep in mind that it went away by itself even before I did the disconnect.
On cold my car starts up fine and idles at around 1500 rpm. Then it gradually goes down when it warms up and idles at about 700 to 800 rpm. Once in a while when I come to a stop, there is a little hickup.
I just did a intake manifold job and it is running much better than it did before, but even before the intake manifold job, I had no check engine light.
Can we arrange something? Would anyone be willing to ship to me and then I can ship back?
Thanks all for your time,
Alan
07-21-2009, 03:09 PM
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I missed the previous posts.
They answered all of your questions.
You either have a bad idle switch or it is out of adjustment. The chances of a hammer or Theos tool telling you more are near 0%.
Since you did not have the check engine light before you R&R the intake, it sounds like you have the throttle cable a little too tight keeping the idle switch from closing.
Do the check noted previously. Engine NOT running, move the throttle slowly by hand under the hood and listen for the click of the idle switch. Loosen the throttle cable slightly.
They answered all of your questions.
You either have a bad idle switch or it is out of adjustment. The chances of a hammer or Theos tool telling you more are near 0%.
Since you did not have the check engine light before you R&R the intake, it sounds like you have the throttle cable a little too tight keeping the idle switch from closing.
Do the check noted previously. Engine NOT running, move the throttle slowly by hand under the hood and listen for the click of the idle switch. Loosen the throttle cable slightly.
07-21-2009, 03:28 PM
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Hi Anthony and Earl - I am in Wayne NJ (Passaic County - Northwest NJ).
The error code I had was 1115 - On another post I have - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ine-light.html. And if you see my last comment, I did nothing and the code went away by itself. It was highly recommended that I hook up a Hammer or even a "Theos" tool to it to see if there could be anything that perhaps might have been cached.
Last night I did disconnect the negative wire for about 10 minutes and the engine did not come back on, but keep in mind that it went away by itself even before I did the disconnect.
On cold my car starts up fine and idles at around 1500 rpm. Then it gradually goes down when it warms up and idles at about 700 to 800 rpm. Once in a while when I come to a stop, there is a little hickup.
I just did a intake manifold job and it is running much better than it did before, but even before the intake manifold job, I had no check engine light.
Can we arrange something? Would anyone be willing to ship to me and then I can ship back?
Thanks all for your time,
Alan
The error code I had was 1115 - On another post I have - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ine-light.html. And if you see my last comment, I did nothing and the code went away by itself. It was highly recommended that I hook up a Hammer or even a "Theos" tool to it to see if there could be anything that perhaps might have been cached.
Last night I did disconnect the negative wire for about 10 minutes and the engine did not come back on, but keep in mind that it went away by itself even before I did the disconnect.
On cold my car starts up fine and idles at around 1500 rpm. Then it gradually goes down when it warms up and idles at about 700 to 800 rpm. Once in a while when I come to a stop, there is a little hickup.
I just did a intake manifold job and it is running much better than it did before, but even before the intake manifold job, I had no check engine light.
Can we arrange something? Would anyone be willing to ship to me and then I can ship back?
Thanks all for your time,
Alan
Your in luck we are neighbors I am 2 towns over just off route 3. I will check the unit tonight, assuming it works, you are welcome to barrow it at your leisure. I would be happy to help although I am quite busy now. I am the local PCA social chair and my wife and I are trying to get everything ready for our annual Concours picnic on the 2nd of August. We will talk about attendance.
PM me if your interested in stopping buy to pick it up or if i can find the time I will drop it off and see if i can help.
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07-21-2009, 03:31 PM
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I missed the previous posts.
They answered all of your questions.
You either have a bad idle switch or it is out of adjustment. The chances of a hammer or Theos tool telling you more are near 0%.
Since you did not have the check engine light before you R&R the intake, it sounds like you have the throttle cable a little too tight keeping the idle switch from closing.
Do the check noted previously. Engine NOT running, move the throttle slowly by hand under the hood and listen for the click of the idle switch. Loosen the throttle cable slightly.
They answered all of your questions.
You either have a bad idle switch or it is out of adjustment. The chances of a hammer or Theos tool telling you more are near 0%.
Since you did not have the check engine light before you R&R the intake, it sounds like you have the throttle cable a little too tight keeping the idle switch from closing.
Do the check noted previously. Engine NOT running, move the throttle slowly by hand under the hood and listen for the click of the idle switch. Loosen the throttle cable slightly.
You posted this after just before I responded.
Alan,
If you still want to borrow it after you have everything resolved let me know. never hurts to check all fault codes since you have a potential local source.
Also if you need a shop recommendation I personally know every Porsche mechanic in the area just let me know.
07-21-2009, 03:41 PM
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Hi Anthony,
Yes, if I can borrow that would be great - Thank you! And, I know you stated you are busy, but if you can listen to my 928 and give your opinion that would be great. If you do not mind, can you email me at atozcc2000@yahoo.com and I will provide you some of my information and we can chat a bit more. Yes, a good mechanic is greatly appreciated.
Not to get of the topic but, how can I join the local club? There is another person on my block that has a 1985 928S that I am pretty sure would like to join.
Thanks again,
Alan
Yes, if I can borrow that would be great - Thank you! And, I know you stated you are busy, but if you can listen to my 928 and give your opinion that would be great. If you do not mind, can you email me at atozcc2000@yahoo.com and I will provide you some of my information and we can chat a bit more. Yes, a good mechanic is greatly appreciated.
Not to get of the topic but, how can I join the local club? There is another person on my block that has a 1985 928S that I am pretty sure would like to join.
Thanks again,
Alan
07-21-2009, 03:51 PM
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Hi Anthony,
Yes, if I can borrow that would be great - Thank you! And, I know you stated you are busy, but if you can listen to my 928 and give your opinion that would be great. If you do not mind, can you email me at atozcc2000@yahoo.com and I will provide you some of my information and we can chat a bit more. Yes, a good mechanic is greatly appreciated.
Not to get of the topic but, how can I join the local club? There is another person on my block that has a 1985 928S that I am pretty sure would like to join.
Thanks again,
Alan
Yes, if I can borrow that would be great - Thank you! And, I know you stated you are busy, but if you can listen to my 928 and give your opinion that would be great. If you do not mind, can you email me at atozcc2000@yahoo.com and I will provide you some of my information and we can chat a bit more. Yes, a good mechanic is greatly appreciated.
Not to get of the topic but, how can I join the local club? There is another person on my block that has a 1985 928S that I am pretty sure would like to join.
Thanks again,
Alan
Glad to be of help.
07-22-2009, 03:22 PM
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Code 1115 is back.
Then, either the idle switch is bad electrically or there is a wiring problem. I assume you did the click check?
It can be metered at the LH on pin 2, or the EZK on pin 8.
Then, either the idle switch is bad electrically or there is a wiring problem. I assume you did the click check?
It can be metered at the LH on pin 2, or the EZK on pin 8.
07-23-2009, 08:37 PM
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Hi, I've done the click test and I could not here it. the TPS is Brand New. The wire Harness is brand new as that was one of the items replaced. Will check out the LH and EZK over the weekend.
07-23-2009, 09:24 PM
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I am not sure that the "click test" is valid anymore. I have a brand new never installed idle switch and it does not click.
I also checked my '91 GT and it does not click.
Best to meter the input to the LH or EZK to see if it is OK or out of adjustment as previously discussed.
It can be metered at the LH on pin 2, or the EZK on pin 8.
I also checked my '91 GT and it does not click.
Best to meter the input to the LH or EZK to see if it is OK or out of adjustment as previously discussed.
It can be metered at the LH on pin 2, or the EZK on pin 8.