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Old 07-18-2009, 07:53 PM
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alanz123
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Default Check Engine Light

Hi Everyone,

Can someone point me to where I can find the Check Engine Light error messages - what they mean according to the number?

Probably has been posted somewhere, but can not seem to find it.

Thanks,
Alan
Old 07-19-2009, 02:53 AM
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Mrmerlin
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there is not any check engine light on the 928 panel.
That said your best bet would be to get a copy of the owners manual
Old 07-19-2009, 06:08 AM
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John Speake
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I understand that some early versions of the digi-dash software did allow some emissions related fault codes to be displayed.

Are the codes you get 3 or 4 digit codes ?
Old 07-19-2009, 10:03 AM
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Ninespub
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I've got a '91 $$$$4 with the digi dash and I DO have a check engine light that goes on intermittently too. I lift open the hood and yup, the engine is still there. However, I have found that if I am minimally down on oil or water the light comes on until I top it off. I am sure that John Speake knows any thing else that may apply insofar as to any codes.

Paul Barrera '91 $$$$4
Old 07-19-2009, 10:21 AM
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WallyP

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The answers can be found in the '91 booklet on changes by year, found on Jim Morehouse's tech info CD set:

This won't be pretty - cut and paste from pdf docs is a pain!

The fault memory can be read via a flashing code emitted by the "Check Engine" lamp .
To initiate diagnosis, proceed as follows with the engine off :
1 . Switch on ignition ("Check Engine" sign lights up) .
2. Close full-load contact (press accelerator pedal down fully for 3-5 seconds) .
~ "Check Engine" goes out and lights up again .
Release accelerator pedal (close idle contact) .
3 . a) The flash sequence (flashing code) indicates a fault path .

Flashing code
1 2 4
Fault path
1 = Fault present
2 = Fault not present
Control unit identification
b) Note fault code and again close full-load contact for 3-4seconds .
c) Repeat step 3b until flashing code 1000 (output end) appears .
d) Eliminate fault, then erase fault memory by closing full-load contact for more than 11 seconds
("Check Engine" lamp goes out briefly after 3, 7 and 10 seconds intervals) .
Fault pathways
No fault 1500
Idle contact - short circuit to ground 1x12
Temperature sensor NTC II 1x14
Idle contact interrupted 1x15
Air flow sensor 1x21
Lambda control rich or lean 1 x23
Oxygen sensor 1 x24
Oxygen sensor interrupted 1x25
Control unit 1 x41
Output end 1000
Other flashing codes are also possible but do not represent a warning about the "Check Engine" lamp.

Note
The fault memory can also be read and erased using flashing code tester 9268 or system tester 9288 .

Important
If the idle contact was opened during starting, the "Check Engine" sign lights up . As soon as the idle contact is closed during driving, however, the "Check Engine" sign goes out after a delay of approx 4 seconds .
If the full-load switch Is faulty (short-circuit to ground) this fault is recognized and the "Check Engine" lamp comes on constantly_ There is no way of emitting the fault through the control-lamp . In this case either the fault must first be eliminated or the fault memory read using flashing code tester 9268 or system tester 9288 .
Old 07-19-2009, 10:42 AM
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alanz123
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My 1991 928 S4 has the check engine light....

Thanks Wally for your input. Here is what I am getting.

Error Code 1115 (no other codes flashing) - What does it mean? Something major (I hope not)?

Where can a "flashing code tester 9268 or system tester 928" be obtained? What is the difference between the two and which one is recommended?

Thanks,
Alan
Old 07-19-2009, 12:07 PM
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John Speake
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As Wally listed above, that is an idle switch fault, the second digit means it is a permanent fault, if it was intermittant the second digit would be 2.

My "Spanner" diagnostic tester is based on an updated 9268. The 9288 is the "hammer".
Old 07-19-2009, 01:48 PM
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alanz123
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Thanks John - I understand the code, but what does this mean? Do I need to replace the Idle Stabilizer Valve or does the "Spanner" or "Hammer" fix this issue?
Old 07-19-2009, 01:54 PM
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John Speake
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The code relates only to the idle (Throttle closed) switch, although if non-op, this will cause the Idle control loop to not operate until you fixed the switch problem.

First check that the switch appears to operate mechanically - open the throttle at the engine very slowly, and you should hear a click from the throttle switch microswitch as soon as the throttle plate opens, followed by a similar click as you release the throttle. If no click, check that the throttle cable isn't too tight.

If you still have a problem, then you need to check the throttle switch operation at the LH ECU. If you do a search on "idle Switch" then the details will be there.

You could also try a battery disconnect for a few seconds as sometimes spurious fault codes are stored. A battery disconnect will clear all stored fault codes.
Old 07-19-2009, 02:02 PM
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alanz123
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John I will do the above and get back with my results. In the mean time (stupid question), can I drive the car? Still sounds and runs good....
Old 07-19-2009, 02:14 PM
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John Speake
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No a danger to use the car. You may fid the idle speed not propely regulated.

Try the battery ground disconnect first.
Old 07-19-2009, 03:14 PM
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thanks for the info, I stand corrected
Old 07-20-2009, 12:52 PM
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alanz123
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Update - I have done nothing as mentioned above and the engine light is out. Any ideas?
Old 07-21-2009, 02:18 PM
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alanz123
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Battery disconnected and no engine light. Will keep an eye on it.
Old 07-21-2009, 08:42 PM
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alanz123
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Hi Everyone, Code 1115 is back. Will continue to troubleshoot and take some measurements.


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