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I appreciate the additional info too and will follow up with results. I'll check out the door arrestors and get a bunch of clips too as I need to go in to my doors anyway to size up for speakers without having to cut into a pair of really nice perforated panels- among other things...
I put yours in the mail late today from south of Denver. I am traveling but was able to package them before we left. I was however short of the .020 shims so I made up a set starting with the .025s and ending with the .050s. I think they will be sufficient.
After I get home I'll dig out some more of the .020 material and some of the rest of it and make up a batch more of these. I am pleased that so many of you guys are going to get some use out of them.
I also sent the two sets to NZ in the mail, and I hand delivered one set to Dillon, CO to one of the NZ guy's son on my way over here to the Denver area. With so many shims going to NZ I have to wonder if maybe the gravity is kind of severe there to cause so many doors to sag.
Hi Jerry - I don't suppose you have any of those hinge shims left? I've almost finished restoring my early 1980 928 back to its former original glory, but the doors are snagging very lightly at the lock side. They've also dropped very slightly.
Happy to pay for time postage etc etc - I'm in the UK after all!
I have just about finished up a whole nother batch of these shime in .020, .032, and ,040, I think that is just about all that might be needed to either move the door forward or to lift the aft end of the door. Tell me just what it is you think you need to do with either or both doors and then send me your mailing address and I'll send some shims.
Yep, mine just came out of a re-spray and we're seeing a few difficulties too. If you could send a couple sets to Paul Barrera Sr. 100 South Hamilton St, Saginaw, MI 48602 I'd appreciate it.
Thanks Jerry! Is there anything we can do in return for you?
I really don't need measurements, just the nature of the issue hoped to be solved. I think I am going to divide the shims into what we have been calling a "set." A set will include one of each of the three shims previously stated--.020, ,032, and .040. (.040 is just about exactly 1mm for those more accustom to metrics.) One set will be sufficient to lift a sagging door. Two sets will be required to move a non sagging door (or even a sagging door) forward. Therefore, moving both doors forward will need 4 sets and lifting two sagging doors will take two sets. lifting and moving will also need only two sets to solve the combined issue. Once you have the shims you can do the measurements and determine what is needed out of the sets to solve the issue.
Therefore all I need is for you to tell me what you want to do--either lift a door or move it forward (or both if the same door). When one says "few difficulties" it doesn't tell me enough about the issues.
These shims are not for sale. In case that is a problem the consideration is your willingness to pay it forward.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 05-28-2017 at 04:53 PM.
Thanks Jerry - I'll measure up this weekend and let you know.
The questions for you is are both doors sagging? if so that dictates two sets of shims. Then what is "dropped slightly?" If that means that both doors or either door is overall fitting lower in the opening, the shims will not fix that. I think it can be fixed by loosening all 6 hinge bolts and lifting the door in place. If that will not do it then you may need to open up the top of the bolt holes in the door post a bit to allow the upward movement needed. Again, the shims will not lift the whole door, only the sagging aft end of the door.
Looking at the picture of your car (beautiful OB 928, by the way), I will suggest that a bit of shim under the top hinge on the left door will both lift the aft end of it a bit but that may also have the effect of solving the dropped slightly issue since I think they are the same thing. I think the front end of you door does not need to be lifted.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 05-28-2017 at 04:56 PM.
Both doors very lightly foul the catch at their rear ends implying that they need to be shimmed very slightly towards the front fenders. They also both suffer from what appears to be droppage at the rear end - that's to say that the catch pin enters the catch below the centre quite considerably. You have to really slam the door to close it - the pin rides up the catch to lift the door and restore the height. The right door is a bit worse than the left one, but they both suffer the problem. Once shut the doors do appear to be reasonably well placed.
It's been really interesting reading this thread about how this situation has come to pass for so many owners, as I too can't really 'feel' much play in the hinges. It may be that by placing enough of a shim into the top hinges will have the added effect of moving the door forward enough to also solve the fouling problem?
Thanks for the car complement - I apologise for the huge photo, that was accidental!
And I must thank you again for your kind offer to repeatedly help sufferers of this condition.
P.S. With one set for one door if you put the .040 shim under the top hinge it will do two things--it will lift the aft end of the door 3.5 times that much or over and eighth of an inch or just over 3mm. It will also move the top edge of the door body forward by .040 or 1mm. If that is too much then use the .032 with the same mathematical results, or the .020 similarly.
Good morning guys, could someone describe to me step by step the process of adjusting the door hinges, I need to place it properly but I am giving it a lot of laps I do not understand how I have to do it, I put a picture of the mismatch of the door of the left side, greetings.
I still have my shims for free, but I have never actually had to put any of them into use, so it may be better for someone else to answer your question. Nevertheless I will tell you what I think you need to do. First check the other door to see if it is in need of adjustment. To check for the amount of sag you have in either door you need to open the door just barely past being closed and so it is not dragging on the door sill, then determine just how much sag there actually is. Then let me know just how much you find you need to raise the rear of the door and tell me, and request some shims from me. I'll put together a few of them and put them in the mail. Send me your address with your request. When you get them, open the door and then remove all the bolts holding the top hinge to the door post. Then slip a calculated number of shims in between the hinge on the door and the mounting place inside the door post.
The spacing between the top and bottom hinges is about a foot, as I recall, and the distance from the hinges to the rear bottom of the door is about 3 feet, also as I recall. That means that to raise the rear of the door a certain amount you need one third that much in shims to do it. When you tell me how much sag there is I'll figure out how many and what thickness shims to send you.
After you have placed the shims and snugged the hinge bolts and you have determined that the bottom gap is correct you may need to slightly loosen the top hinge bolts and then adjust the top of the door in or out to have the surface true then tighten the bolts. Do you have any tools?
P.S. You bumped this thread, so I assume you have read it.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 02-18-2021 at 11:04 AM.
03-28-2014, 05:23 AM
If you could send a couple sets to Paul Barrera Sr. 100 South Hamilton St, Saginaw, MI 48602 I'd appreciate it. 
