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The math may not be the same either. They are very different cars so you need to measure the distance between the hinges, up and down, and then the distance from the hinge axis to the dragging tail of the door. The factor may not be 3.5 as with the 928. In fact I suspect more like 3 to one or even 2.5 to one.
Edit: And then how the hinges mount may also be entirely different from the 928.
Last edited by Jerry Feather; 08-18-2021 at 07:53 PM.
The math may not be the same either. They are very different cars so you need to measure the distance between the hinges, up and down, and then the distance from the hinge axis to the dragging tail of the door. The factor may not be 3.5 as with the 928. In fact I suspect more like 3 to one or even 2.5 to one.
Edit: And then how the hinges mount may also be entirely different from the 928.
944 is 12” between the hinges and 42” from hinge to rear of door so the 3.5x still works.
Hi Jerry, I am wondering if you still have any of these shims left. I am thinking I would probably only need a single .020 shim as the door is barely difficult to open on the driver's side. However, both doors behave differently when the vehicle is up on the support stands. Thank you very much.
What adjustment is there in the 928 door hinge attachment on the body side?
Can the bolts/hinge move around in or out?
My drivers door sticks out about 1/4" on the bottom at the back, but it is flush at the top..it gets worse as you go down the door from the roof to the lower sill.
Thanks Jerry, I think that's what I need to do..that and a soda can thin shim..because my door latch just barely hangs on my striker pin on the body side, wont open with the car in the air at all..but just maybe this hinge adjustment would re-align that for me too...
Hi Jerry, I am wondering if you still have any of these shims left. I am thinking I would probably only need a single .020 shim as the door is barely difficult to open on the driver's side. However, both doors behave differently when the vehicle is up on the support stands. Thank you very much.
I guess I missed this post in the confusion. Yes, I have some shims. What would you like me to send you. Send me that address and I'll put some in the mail.
I guess I missed this post in the confusion. Yes, I have some shims. What would you like me to send you. Send me that address and I'll put some in the mail.
Hello from Germany,
I found by chance this thread and have the same issue with the door alignment. My passenger door needs to come 5 mm to the front. Besides that it fits very well, knowing the door was replaced... I have attached a picture. Can this be adjusted with the shims?
I can't tell for sure but I don't think your Passenger door needs to move 5mm. That is about .200 inch which is a lot. You might have a 5mm gap at the front but you do not need to totally fill it with the door. What I suggest that you do is with your dial or digital caliper measure the gap and send or post a picture of the measurement. Then we can figure out just how best to even the gaps from front to back. They should all be just about the same.
I can't tell for sure but I don't think your Passenger door needs to move 5mm. That is about .200 inch which is a lot. You might have a 5mm gap at the front but you do not need to totally fill it with the door. What I suggest that you do is with your dial or digital caliper measure the gap and send or post a picture of the measurement. Then we can figure out just how best to even the gaps from front to back. They should all be just about the same.
Me again… As my engine decided to committ sucide the door is my least problem … 🙈 I will for sure come back to you… thank you for the support 👍
Oh man that sounds just awful...... What happened, cam belt? pistons? crank?
Yep, as an English friend said: „Sometimes you have these days…“… It seems to be the crankshaft bearing, caused by the transaxle tension. I have an automatic gearbox… 🥶🤬
I can't tell for sure but I don't think your Passenger door needs to move 5mm. That is about .200 inch which is a lot. You might have a 5mm gap at the front but you do not need to totally fill it with the door. What I suggest that you do is with your dial or digital caliper measure the gap and send or post a picture of the measurement. Then we can figure out just how best to even the gaps from front to back. They should all be just about the same.
Hi Jerry,
engine runs again and now it is time for the door hinge… I took some pics of the door gaps. The 15mm is at the front fender and the 5mm at the B-Colomn.
cheers Peter
08-18-2021, 07:45 PM
... What happened, cam belt? pistons? crank?
