Door hinge adjustment
10-14-2013, 10:53 AM
#16
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Very cool Jerry! BTW, on my car, I noticed there are holes drilled through the bracket welded to the body and into the hinge. Looks like roughly 4 mm dia. Appears when those two guys at the factory finished the adjustment of the door, they must have drilled these as alignment holes, so that anyone who needed to remove the door could easily get it back to the same position afterwards.
That doesn't have anything to do with correcting a sag by adding shims, just an interesting discovery. On my car, I found the hinges and door stop operated much more smoothly by getting my hinge alignment back to factory via these holes. However, I couldn't leave well enough alone and have since modified my door alignment a little bit. There's probably a way to do this that keeps the hinge pins in exact alignment to each other, but in my case I just put up with a slight binding sensation as I open and close the door.
That doesn't have anything to do with correcting a sag by adding shims, just an interesting discovery. On my car, I found the hinges and door stop operated much more smoothly by getting my hinge alignment back to factory via these holes. However, I couldn't leave well enough alone and have since modified my door alignment a little bit. There's probably a way to do this that keeps the hinge pins in exact alignment to each other, but in my case I just put up with a slight binding sensation as I open and close the door.
11-02-2013, 01:00 AM
#17
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Thanks Jerry! They arrived and I have adjusted both doors. The drivers door now works great. The passenger door sits correctly now and does not drag on the bottom or the top.
But the door striker lock mechanism requires slamming the door to shut tight. Very hard to close from inside the car. It was like this before I shimmed the door. I have only had the car for a month and it has been repainted before I bought it.
I have adjusted a few times and its got better but still a real mission to close. On the passenger door the black plastic/nylon bushing is gone would that make a big difference? This is a real pain. Kind of a close but no cigar.
But the door striker lock mechanism requires slamming the door to shut tight. Very hard to close from inside the car. It was like this before I shimmed the door. I have only had the car for a month and it has been repainted before I bought it.
I have adjusted a few times and its got better but still a real mission to close. On the passenger door the black plastic/nylon bushing is gone would that make a big difference? This is a real pain. Kind of a close but no cigar.
11-02-2013, 09:37 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
I'm going to Cars 'n' Coffee shortly so I'll look at the ones in my GT. However, my initial thought is that the door latch in the door and/or the striker on the door post of the car may or should be adjustable. As to the missing plastic, I usually find that if something is missing it should be replaced. If you can't find a replacement for the bushing I can probably make you one. Let me know.
11-02-2013, 10:02 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
The door striker on the door post (b-pillar) is adjustable quite a bit laterally. There are 2 or 3 plastic spacers underneath it as well for adjustment.
Cheers!
Carl
Cheers!
Carl
11-25-2013, 12:18 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Thanks Jerry! They arrived and I have adjusted both doors. The drivers door now works great. The passenger door sits correctly now and does not drag on the bottom or the top.
But the door striker lock mechanism requires slamming the door to shut tight. Very hard to close from inside the car. It was like this before I shimmed the door. I have only had the car for a month and it has been repainted before I bought it.
I have adjusted a few times and its got better but still a real mission to close. On the passenger door the black plastic/nylon bushing is gone would that make a big difference? This is a real pain. Kind of a close but no cigar.
But the door striker lock mechanism requires slamming the door to shut tight. Very hard to close from inside the car. It was like this before I shimmed the door. I have only had the car for a month and it has been repainted before I bought it.
I have adjusted a few times and its got better but still a real mission to close. On the passenger door the black plastic/nylon bushing is gone would that make a big difference? This is a real pain. Kind of a close but no cigar.
03-26-2014, 07:51 AM
#21
What I am going to send Glenn, (and will send to anyone needing some), is a set of these shims consisting of two each of the following thicknesses: .020 .025, .032, and .040. With those one can move a given hinge, (or two of them) by just about any amount up to a combination of all four sizes.
Do you still offer these? On my 84 S US both doors close (I.e. Won't stay open- DS more so) and DS door needs to be forcibly bumped in while lifting up on handle to open.
Any suggestions also welcome...
-tom
03-26-2014, 10:49 AM
#22
Rennlist Member
There is one new Door Stop/Stay for sale on eBay that is about $50. That is quite a bit, but not real terrible. You will have to take the door panel off to replace the stay. That is not too much trouble, but I highly recommend replacing ALL of the door panel cliips when you do. Rob Budd has them for sale on eBay also. His run about a buck apiece.
PM me your name and address and I'll get the shims in the mail.
03-26-2014, 11:01 AM
#23
Team Owner
Tom from your description, it sounds like you need to lubricate the door latch mechanism inside the door, and possibly adjust the handle actuating rod length, and the latching plate on the door jamb.
Note you want the handle to begin unlatching after about 5MM of travel with full unlatch after halfway of the handle travel.
If you have excessive travel; either the handle mechanism has gotten cracked and or the rod actuator needs to be readjusted, usually lengthened
Also you may have to readjust the door latch striker plate this is an adjustable part and if its not set properly the door will will be hard to open/ close the last few inches.
To adjust simply open the door and look to see where the latch pin is touching the door latch.
You want the pin to go into the latch in the center of its groove.
To adjust simply loosen the allen bolts on the plate and tap with a wood block to gently move the plate.
Also check the door latch bolts for tightness.
The doors not staying open is a door arrester issue and can be cured with the titanium shim kit that was available or by installing new door arresters.
shim kit , vendor Jager.
928A006-DAS Door arrestor kit .
Adding shims to the hinges will in most cases not be needed, and should only be considered as a last resort,
there are other things that cause poor operation of the doors.
Note you want the handle to begin unlatching after about 5MM of travel with full unlatch after halfway of the handle travel.
If you have excessive travel; either the handle mechanism has gotten cracked and or the rod actuator needs to be readjusted, usually lengthened
Also you may have to readjust the door latch striker plate this is an adjustable part and if its not set properly the door will will be hard to open/ close the last few inches.
To adjust simply open the door and look to see where the latch pin is touching the door latch.
You want the pin to go into the latch in the center of its groove.
To adjust simply loosen the allen bolts on the plate and tap with a wood block to gently move the plate.
Also check the door latch bolts for tightness.
The doors not staying open is a door arrester issue and can be cured with the titanium shim kit that was available or by installing new door arresters.
shim kit , vendor Jager.
928A006-DAS Door arrestor kit .
Adding shims to the hinges will in most cases not be needed, and should only be considered as a last resort,
there are other things that cause poor operation of the doors.
03-26-2014, 02:11 PM
#24
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I tried both solutions for the door arrester and recommend just putting in a new one. I think it was around $35 and worth it to restore the door action to like new ...
And thanks Stan for the tips, will check those ideas.
And thanks Stan for the tips, will check those ideas.
03-26-2014, 11:17 PM
#25
Hi Jerry could I get a set of your shims please - I have the same issue as Dean on my 91 S4. I tried to pick up the sag by getting new striker pins (available from Roger) with the black plastic bush and adjusting the striker plate up a little but it makes the door hard to close - needs a slam. My address as previous when you sent the excellent RHD plastic cowl panel - fitted like a glove
Ken
Ken
03-27-2014, 10:39 AM
#26
Rennlist Member
Hi Jerry could I get a set of your shims please - I have the same issue as Dean on my 91 S4. I tried to pick up the sag by getting new striker pins (available from Roger) with the black plastic bush and adjusting the striker plate up a little but it makes the door hard to close - needs a slam. My address as previous when you sent the excellent RHD plastic cowl panel - fitted like a glove
Ken
Ken
03-27-2014, 11:24 PM
#30
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