cgranger5000

Hi All,

My windows stopped working a couple days ago. I checked the fuse, still intact. I checked to see if I was getting power to the switches and I am not. I am thinking it could be the relay ?? I ordered a new one with hopes that this could fix the problem, just trying to stay out of the shop if possible. Anyone have any thoughts that might help or am I on the right track??

Signed,

One window up, One window down

michael j wright

Are both windows dead? or just one?

leperboy

Do you have a sunroof? If so, check to see if it's working. If not, then your window relay is bad.

If no sunroof, it may still be your relay. You can jumper it and see if you get power.

Matt

cgranger5000

Sunroof works, rear wiper works, both windows dead.....Explain the "jumper it" please

ACG

Cgranger,

Sorry to hear your problem with the windows. It is not my intent to hijack your thread... but merely to share that I am having the same problem... sunroof works, but both windows are dead. In fact, the driverside window switch was changed to a brand new replacement switch about a year ago (purchased from Ebay). So, I was surprised that stopped working.

I checked my Window Winder relay. It does not appear to have corrosion. However, I have not opened up the housing of the relay to see if there are any issues with the internals inside the relay (e.g., frayed wiring in faulty relays.... based on what I heard read in other posts about relay issues).

Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the "jumper" idea. i know there are 4 prongs to the relay. Which ones do we connect on the relay board to jump? It would be great if fellow Rennlisters can chime in with specific instructions.

Lizard928

Jumper pins 30 and 87

WallyP

Go to our web site and look at the relay and fuse charts for the '84.

Go to the Central Electric Panel and locate Relay VI. Use a good flashlight to look at the markings on the board and make sure that you have the correct relay.

Remove the relay. Look at the diagram on the relay and the socket to identify the terminal numbers in the socket. Use a 12 volt test lamp or a multimeter or voltmeter to check for 12 vdc on terminal 30 in the socket.

If you do not have 12 vdc here, the problem is usually a bad connection on Fuse #21.

If you have 12 vdc on Fuse #21, turn the ignition switch on and check for 12 vdc on terminal 86. If there is no power on terminal 86, the problem is usually a bad connection behind the panel, or a problem with Relay X.

If you have power on both 30 and 86, install a temporary jumper between terminals 30 (power) and 87 (load). Try the windows - if they work, Relay VI is probably faulty. Some folks have succeeded in removing the cover and cleaning the contacts, but this doesn't always work.

If the windows still don't work with the jumper installed, check Plug D (4th from the left end) for looseness. The window circuits are the red/black wires in the bottom left terminal.

(Federal law requires that every 928 owner have a relay jumper in the glove box for emergency use on the fuel pump circuit.)

ACG

Thanks for the specific input!

Alan

Did you check the fuse already?

Alan

ACG

Thks Alan. I checked the fuse late last night... but it was a quick visual check... very dark at night.... but I believe it is okay. Will check again tonight.

Just curious... I am a "jumper" virgin... regarding the "temporary jumper"... is this something that I will have to fashion myself ... or a something which I can buy (the Harbor Freight store is only a couple of blocks away from my office)?

WallyP

Simple Version:
- Procure two 1/4" male flat spade terminals, one single-pole single-throw toggle switch with "OFF" and "ON" clearly makrked on the switch, and three feet of "zip cord" or "lamp cord". (Home Depot, Radio Shack, etc.)
- Attach the two terminals to one end of the two-conductor lamp cord.
- Attach the two terminals on the toggle switch to the other end.
- Keep the jumper in the glove box, not at home.

When the fuel pump relay fails and the car stops running, remove the relay. On your '84 it is Relay XVII. Plug the spade terminals into terminals 30 (power) and 87 (load) in the socket. When you flip the switch on, the fuel pump will run if the problem is the relay. If you need to drive the car with the jumper installed, use terminals 15 (ignition-switched power) and 87 (load) instead.

In the immediate application, remove the window relay and test as described above.

Alan

Never check a fuse by looking - always use a DMM - you will be suprised how often what looks good is not...

I don't think you can buy a jumper very easily. Easy to make - for Relay use I recommend this approach:

Buy an ATC inline fuse holder (ebay) get one with at least 12AWG wiring. Ideally also get a switch rated for 15-20A at 12v. Buy some 1/4" half insulated male quick disconnect crimp connectors (Ace HW)
and crimp one on one end of the fuse pigtail. Cut the other pigtail in half and attach the switch to the fuseholder end and the seperated wire to the other switch terminal (heat shrink wrap is good) and another male quick disconnect to the remaining end. You now have a fused and switched jumper. Put a suitable fuse in depending on what you are testing and use the male quick disconnects to plug into the relay contacts. The usual mechanism is to plug between relay socket teminals 87 & 30 (the contact set) - start with 87 becuase it usually the unpowered one. Also start with the switch off...

The minimal version is of course a piece of wire - or a wire with one of these terminals each end - however the switch and fuse make it much more versatile and worth keeping in your travel tool kit in the car.

Alan

ACG

Wally and Alan,
Many thanks again for your quick and wonderful responses!

Wally,
By the way, I purchased a couple of fuel pump relays from 928 Specialists as backup. It was immediately after I purchased my 928 a couple of years ago following advice from you wise sages at Rennlist