MY COOLING SYSTEM SUCKS....NEED INPUT PLEASE
#16
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Santa Rosa Beach, FL
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Also, the top Rad. hose shoud be hot and feel full, at least mine does when the engine is hot. Not too long ago I had the same issue and it took a couple of runs of several miles with the heater open to clear the air and fill that top hose.
#17
Rennlist Member
Gasket inside the water bridge, on an 82? My 83(jan build) does NOT have one, and from what I have read, these started in late 83...
Also,do you have the 'guide tube' in the inlet to the radiator? This has a 1/4 circle cut out , and facing right , concept being to ensure coolant goes down the tank before going sideways through the tubes.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
Also,do you have the 'guide tube' in the inlet to the radiator? This has a 1/4 circle cut out , and facing right , concept being to ensure coolant goes down the tank before going sideways through the tubes.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
#19
Pro
Thread Starter
Gasket inside the water bridge, on an 82? My 83(jan build) does NOT have one, and from what I have read, these started in late 83...
Also,do you have the 'guide tube' in the inlet to the radiator? This has a 1/4 circle cut out , and facing right , concept being to ensure coolant goes down the tank before going sideways through the tubes.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
Also,do you have the 'guide tube' in the inlet to the radiator? This has a 1/4 circle cut out , and facing right , concept being to ensure coolant goes down the tank before going sideways through the tubes.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
The radiator does not have the tube you are refering to. I would assume that is a possibility for a non-auto car. The inner tank rad coolers appeard to disribute the flow.
#20
Pro
Thread Starter
Is the remote cooler or any other mod. blocking the air flow?
Also, the top Rad. hose shoud be hot and feel full, at least mine does when the engine is hot. Not too long ago I had the same issue and it took a couple of runs of several miles with the heater open to clear the air and fill that top hose.
Also, the top Rad. hose shoud be hot and feel full, at least mine does when the engine is hot. Not too long ago I had the same issue and it took a couple of runs of several miles with the heater open to clear the air and fill that top hose.
Even though the radiator was just flushed and flow checked, I am most suspicious that it is the culprit.
I did bleed the system again befor heading home from work. The needed did stay in the upper middle range. mainly at the second bar for the whole way home, slightly cooler than this morning. I will recheck it when it cools.
#21
Rennlist Member
tHE RAD TUBE in the inlet hose is not specific to any transmission AFAIK. its to improve cooling be ensuring the coolant doesnt just go in, and turn left across the top tubes.
If your bridge had the seal, logical to replace. Mine doesnt have one....
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
If your bridge had the seal, logical to replace. Mine doesnt have one....
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
#22
Team Owner
just a note the 928 coolant system is a self bleeding system just connect the hoses and fill from the bottle with car level.
That said i think you should get a IR gun and check the inlet and outlet temps you gauge could be bad or the sender . If you fitted a 75c thermo then you should be seeing about 180 at the top hose, and about 10 deg cooler on the outletif you could post a picture of the coolant bleed hoses this might help.
Try to rout them so they are on a gradual rise to the bottle.
The no coolant coming out of the top of the bleed hose on the rad is concerning, try removing the fitting and see if its clogged
That said i think you should get a IR gun and check the inlet and outlet temps you gauge could be bad or the sender . If you fitted a 75c thermo then you should be seeing about 180 at the top hose, and about 10 deg cooler on the outletif you could post a picture of the coolant bleed hoses this might help.
Try to rout them so they are on a gradual rise to the bottle.
The no coolant coming out of the top of the bleed hose on the rad is concerning, try removing the fitting and see if its clogged
#23
Pro
Thread Starter
post a picture of the coolant bleed hoses this might help.
Try to rout them so they are on a gradual rise to the bottle.
The no coolant coming out of the top of the bleed hose on the rad is concerning, try removing the fitting and see if its clogged
The bleed hose was replaced with a new line. It is routed in the same location that the origonal was. I also changed the fitting on the top of the rad. with a 90 deg. elbow. The braided line would stick up too high onto the radiator mount fold on the bottom of the hood. Yesterday when running I seemed that the radiator was not full. I did remove the hose at the fitting. No coolant came out. If i compressed the rad. hose I did get a small stream of coolant then. There was no restriction there.
Try to rout them so they are on a gradual rise to the bottle.
The no coolant coming out of the top of the bleed hose on the rad is concerning, try removing the fitting and see if its clogged
The bleed hose was replaced with a new line. It is routed in the same location that the origonal was. I also changed the fitting on the top of the rad. with a 90 deg. elbow. The braided line would stick up too high onto the radiator mount fold on the bottom of the hood. Yesterday when running I seemed that the radiator was not full. I did remove the hose at the fitting. No coolant came out. If i compressed the rad. hose I did get a small stream of coolant then. There was no restriction there.
#24
Team Owner
if you remove the small li9ne off of the top of the rad you should have coolant coming out with the car off and the system cold, since the bottle is higher than the bleed nipple, you could also have a clogged line/hose/ kink
#25
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
^^^^ To get the coolant test flow from the radiator bleed nipple, the reservoir cap will need to be open or there needs to be some pressure on the system. If the reservoir level is a little high, you should also see flow from the hose when you remove it, coming from the reservoir. That nipple in th ereservoir is normally open to vapor space above the seam.
As Stan also recommends, a continuous slope with no pockets for vapor is the ideal hose routing. Unfortunately that doesn't really work if you follow the original routing over the top of the shock tower and back down to the reservoir nipple. It still works fine in that configuration though.
As Stan also recommends, a continuous slope with no pockets for vapor is the ideal hose routing. Unfortunately that doesn't really work if you follow the original routing over the top of the shock tower and back down to the reservoir nipple. It still works fine in that configuration though.