Interior swap issue #1...
#1
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From: Somewhere, NC............................... Posts: Not nearly enough!
Interior swap issue #1...
To start off, this is not to tick off the purists or start a debate about the 'deception' of having an airbag dash in a non-airbag car... but I need some knowledgeable assistance.
I have an '88 S4 and am swapping in the interior pieces of a '91 S4. I have no intention of wiring in an airbag into my non-airbag harness or anything like that. The issues I am finding with what was supposed to be a simple swap are turning into not so simple obstacles.
For this thread, I address the seat belts on the front seats. See diagrams below:
My '88 has a countersunk bolt hole for the mount -otherwise the hole is somewhat flush to the lower seat frame. In contrast, the '91 has a threaded post that extends from the seat frame (in green).
Normally, one would not consider this to be an issue -except all the parts did not come with my '91 set and I was going to simply recycle some '88 hardware. Well, the '88 seat belt's bolt hole is a smaller diameter than the post on the '91.
Some have suggested to bore the hole to a larger size. Others have said the bolt is strong enough -so what if the metal belt end slides back and forth. Since I do not want to be the crash-test dummy that puts their theories to the test by betting my life... I consulted PET for the differences (see below).
Well, PET was gloriously unhelpful. It does show different part numbers for the buckle end of the seat belt (red box) and different part numbers for the mounting bolts (blue box). There is however, no listing for years applicable. There is some obscure reference to something in the description... does this "F 92KS8 41284>>" in the description have a date encoded?
Please advise with any helpful knowledge of PET or experience with this issue.
Thanks guys!
I have an '88 S4 and am swapping in the interior pieces of a '91 S4. I have no intention of wiring in an airbag into my non-airbag harness or anything like that. The issues I am finding with what was supposed to be a simple swap are turning into not so simple obstacles.
For this thread, I address the seat belts on the front seats. See diagrams below:
My '88 has a countersunk bolt hole for the mount -otherwise the hole is somewhat flush to the lower seat frame. In contrast, the '91 has a threaded post that extends from the seat frame (in green).
Normally, one would not consider this to be an issue -except all the parts did not come with my '91 set and I was going to simply recycle some '88 hardware. Well, the '88 seat belt's bolt hole is a smaller diameter than the post on the '91.
Some have suggested to bore the hole to a larger size. Others have said the bolt is strong enough -so what if the metal belt end slides back and forth. Since I do not want to be the crash-test dummy that puts their theories to the test by betting my life... I consulted PET for the differences (see below).
Well, PET was gloriously unhelpful. It does show different part numbers for the buckle end of the seat belt (red box) and different part numbers for the mounting bolts (blue box). There is however, no listing for years applicable. There is some obscure reference to something in the description... does this "F 92KS8 41284>>" in the description have a date encoded?
Please advise with any helpful knowledge of PET or experience with this issue.
Thanks guys!
#2
BLAST! I just threw a bolt in mine and kissed it goodbye, BUT, I will say this. I DID us the same bolt that was in there before- that is, in the other seat... SOOOO, the rating must be sufficient, or am I in danger???
#3
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From: Somewhere, NC............................... Posts: Not nearly enough!
Mase... as I mentioned in our talk, if Porsche redesigned it -it must have been for a very good reason. I think the tensile strength of the bolt vs. the post must have been the reason for the redesign. Think about the action of that end of the seatbelt when the occupants come to sudden, abrupt stop. The steel buckle end could shear a bolt in half.
Now, put that bolt inside of a steel sleeve -now that buckle end has to shear through 2 steel objects. In essence, it doubled the safety factor... in my reasoning anyway.
If I knew more about interpreting the codes in PET... I would know what to look for.
Now, put that bolt inside of a steel sleeve -now that buckle end has to shear through 2 steel objects. In essence, it doubled the safety factor... in my reasoning anyway.
If I knew more about interpreting the codes in PET... I would know what to look for.
#5
A) Mase, the only reason you're in danger in your car is from the way you drive!!!! AHAHAHA... j/k j/k, relax.
2) That code in PET refers to your VIN #. If your vin contains that series and is greater than, or less than, then that part # works for that car. So I don't think it's so much of a date coded in there, but a serial number that determines when certain parts changed throughout the production year. Hope that helps.
-Evan
2) That code in PET refers to your VIN #. If your vin contains that series and is greater than, or less than, then that part # works for that car. So I don't think it's so much of a date coded in there, but a serial number that determines when certain parts changed throughout the production year. Hope that helps.
-Evan
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From: Somewhere, NC............................... Posts: Not nearly enough!
Evan... thanks, but which part of the number and within which production year? I think a complete separate manual could be written on just how to interpret some of the information in the PET manuals!
You know Mason... you're right about a post-accident investigation like that about the speed necessary to cause a bolt to fail, especially if a fatality occurred.
Come to think about it... I think my upper attachment slider appeared cracked (or has a molding flash) when I R&R'd the quarter panel (Interior swap issue #2 thread)... although it was too dark to really tell... I may have to take the panel back out and have another look
You know Mason... you're right about a post-accident investigation like that about the speed necessary to cause a bolt to fail, especially if a fatality occurred.
Come to think about it... I think my upper attachment slider appeared cracked (or has a molding flash) when I R&R'd the quarter panel (Interior swap issue #2 thread)... although it was too dark to really tell... I may have to take the panel back out and have another look
Last edited by White Lightnin'; 06-25-2009 at 11:44 PM.
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#8
There is information in PET about those codes... Give me a few minutes to take a look at it and see if I can get anything more helpful for you. I just did this not too long ago trying to figure something out with only that code to go by.... I'm about done watching the Phillies get beat by the Rays again anyway.
#9
Ok...
92 K S 841283 ---- 9 2 represents the vehicle type. K is the model year (not sure exactly what year K stands for but I assume it's 91). S is where it was manufactured. 8 is the third digit of the vehicle type (92 + 8 = 928) And the last 5 are the serial number. The >> or << before or after the set of numbers indicates if the part is used on serial numbers greater than or less than that serial number. Write down the last 10 of your vin and see if you can figure out which part # corresponds with the correct serial number. Hope that helps... I know it's still very confusing and you're absolutely right about the need for a manual just to determine the codes in there.
Hope that's more usefull than my first response.
92 K S 841283 ---- 9 2 represents the vehicle type. K is the model year (not sure exactly what year K stands for but I assume it's 91). S is where it was manufactured. 8 is the third digit of the vehicle type (92 + 8 = 928) And the last 5 are the serial number. The >> or << before or after the set of numbers indicates if the part is used on serial numbers greater than or less than that serial number. Write down the last 10 of your vin and see if you can figure out which part # corresponds with the correct serial number. Hope that helps... I know it's still very confusing and you're absolutely right about the need for a manual just to determine the codes in there.
Hope that's more usefull than my first response.
#10
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From: Somewhere, NC............................... Posts: Not nearly enough!
So, I am looking at the last 5 digits of my VIN... it is almost 20,000 higher. Doesn't make sense. For a '91 to have different parts would indicate a supercession well after my car was made... not 20,000 serial numbers before it.
Perhaps I need to look at the PET section for the last years of production (GTS) and see if there was a superceded part number after this one... and the affected serial numbers.
Perhaps I need to look at the PET section for the last years of production (GTS) and see if there was a superceded part number after this one... and the affected serial numbers.
#11
I know after doing a interior swap on two cars, it takes far longer than you will ever think it should.
Sorry I cant help you on the set belt issues, but I had issues with going from a 2 belt in the rear to a three belt.
Sorry I cant help you on the set belt issues, but I had issues with going from a 2 belt in the rear to a three belt.
#12
So, I am looking at the last 5 digits of my VIN... it is almost 20,000 higher. Doesn't make sense. For a '91 to have different parts would indicate a supercession well after my car was made... not 20,000 serial numbers before it.
Perhaps I need to look at the PET section for the last years of production (GTS) and see if there was a superceded part number after this one... and the affected serial numbers.
Perhaps I need to look at the PET section for the last years of production (GTS) and see if there was a superceded part number after this one... and the affected serial numbers.
Sorry Barry,
I tried... please keep me posted on your progress, and whenever you do figure it out. Good Luck, I'll try to keep digging for clues as well.
#13
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From: Somewhere, NC............................... Posts: Not nearly enough!
Okay... the '95 (GTS) PET list offers no further help (see below). According to this, there was no change after the one listed earlier in this thread.
I have heard of some Italian car companies altering parts to fit during assembly -so that effectively, parts were not always interchangeable... but not the Germans!
I wonder...
I have heard of some Italian car companies altering parts to fit during assembly -so that effectively, parts were not always interchangeable... but not the Germans!
I wonder...
#14
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From: Somewhere, NC............................... Posts: Not nearly enough!
I think there is a clue in the 'K' part of that code. 'K' is the 11th letter of the alphabet, and '91 is the year... just a WAG.
...but somewhere I read the 928 started as 'Project K' -so who really knows?
And, about the serial number... were they sequential per model or per Porsches made ?.... still, being almost 20,000 serial numbers before my car was made says the supercession took place at least a year before -not 3 years after.
Very confusing....
#15
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So do you have the later shoulder-less bolt?
Get a fresh one and use the bolt designed for the seat frame?
My ex-87 Audi had this strange recommendation about replacing seat belts every 10 years. Someone surmised it may be to fight off dry rot for the cars in hot climates.
Get a fresh one and use the bolt designed for the seat frame?
My ex-87 Audi had this strange recommendation about replacing seat belts every 10 years. Someone surmised it may be to fight off dry rot for the cars in hot climates.