mj1pate

I have the same year Porsche, although my MY is the latter half of the year. My flex plate never has measurable deflection, crank shaft travel is in spec and the connecting rod bearings visually checked fine last year. I don't understand what has made some autos so susceptible, and others not. But I agree with the majority. Go ahead and check it. Even if you have to drop the exhaust pipes from the manifold, the whole job takes an hour once the car is off the ground.

Another option: Install the bushing, shims and circlip on the froward tip of your driveshaft. Some have done this, and without dropping the driveshaft. Its all < $30.00 in parts. Your MY will have the groove around the drive shaft tip to accept the parts, whereas later MYs will not. Search for threads started by me (mj1pate). I posted a thread about the topic and the tech data (thanks to Bill Ball) is there.

GlennD

Michael,

Thanks for the info. I also have a late 1986 and can only hope that the TT is within spec - like yours.
I am taking it to the dealer for this inspection. I would do it myself but do not have the time presently due to work demands. Next time.
I will look at the modification you mention.

Fun and comfortable car to drive ... but ....

Cheers
Glenn

porsche928guy

It is my bet that unless the dealer knows 928s very well they'll charge you a couple hundred and you won't (or shouldn't) be any more comfortable with your situation. The only way to know for sure is if you take care of it yourself.

mj1pate

I really fear that this is true. A "good" mechanic (probably an independent) should be able to read and follow instructions, if you don't have an adequate lift mechanism yourself. Instructions for checking crank endplay and releasing any flexplate deflection are on the forums, with pictures. Bill Ball has published on this in detail. If you can't find threads on the topic, please post a request and plenty of us should be able to cough up some urls.

WallyP

Training a shop (especially a dealership) to work on your car can be really expensive...

Calgary Ole

Glenn, Checked mine the first weekend I got the car, never having worked on a 928 before. If we can work it out, bring it over and I'll help you release the flex plate.

On mine, I did not change the rear bellhousing bolts to the shorter bolts but did have to lower the exhaust enough to access. Can someone tell me if the short bolt will work on my S4 so I do not have to lower the exhaust?

Bertrand Daoust

Here is Bill's procedure:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...pictorial.html
A very good one.

mj1pate

As Bill had done, I left the rear bolts out entirely without affecting the security of the bell housing.

GlennD

Dear all,

Much thanks for all the offers of help (URL and assistance). I did find the procedure and it is not bad. No problems sticking my fingers into the car - just finding the time ...
Perhaps next week.

In Calgary, there are a few good shops including the dealer (one of the mechanics has a 928 and regularly works on it - I trust him).

Best regards,
Glenn

S4ordie

I hate to be a smartass but I just have to ask - as "TheClairvoyant" shouldn't you already know the answer to this question?

928FIXER

It is an easy thing to do.I release the pressure on the flexplate every oil change,which works out to once a year now both 928's have limited use insurance.I do it while the oil is dripping out as I let it drain for at least a half hour.It moves a little every time i release it.

TheClairvoyant

I merely chose the screen name after an Iron Maiden song. Sorry to confuse anyone who was hoping I could see the future

The future for my car is a flex plate check this coming Wednesday and sitting in my driveway until that happens.

Mrmerlin

make sure to check the rear bolt as well otherwise all of your effort is for naught

GlennD

Thanks all,

I found some time tonight and crawled underneath the car. Six bolts and the cover was off, one hex head and the clamp was loose ... piece of cake just as advertised. I did not even have to touch my exhaust to get out the 2 back bolts (love the 86.5 )
However, I need to beg the knowledge of the group again. When you did your adjustment, what did you use to fill in the crack between the cover and the starter. There was some foam filling in the gap (keep the dirt out) however the foam attached to my cover was old and just crumbled. With the gap, dirt would get into that nice clean space by the starter gear.

Any suggestions on what to use that would stand up to the environment and engine heat?

In advance, thank-you
Glenn


---- yes, I am glad I did my flex plate. There was ever a slight bow in it

Bill Ball

Congrats on doing the flexplate release. Did the plate spring back much? 2-3mm is common. 5-10mm is bad news. Did it end up flat? If not, it should be replaced. Did you lever the flywheel towards the back before locking down the clamp?

It would be reassuring to measure the crank endplay. You did everything short of that today.

That gap has been open on my car for 6 years or so. Unless you drive off-road a lot, I wouldn't worry about it too much. I never find any noticeable dirt in there. BUT the part is available. I even have new one but for some reason have never installed it. It's a foam strip with sticky on one side. It's PN 928 116 427 02 I'm not sure it is any better than some common weatherstrip shoved up into the gap, although it is shaped to fit.