I had a problem yesterday with my car not starting after coming out of Home Depot. This morning after getting the car towed home yesterday. The car wouldn't start unless I turned the key off and on many times then cranked it, then cycled again then it started. Something else, if I don't touch the accelerator pedal the car will idle where it's supposed to, when I give it gas, it will idle high!
Does anyone know what type of problem I have?

Thanks

 

Sounds like an ignition switch on its last legs.

Typically revs increase with application of the go pedal Maybe you've got a sticky throttle plate, or linkage, or throttle cable, or a piece of carpet keeping the gas pedal from coming all the way back up? Blow some Kroil down the throttle cable that goes to the pedal, and some down the cable that goes to the throttle body.

 

An ignition switch is on my short list too.

 

Yup willing to bet and agree with the others....TIME for a NEW Ignition switch! usually and easy fix too!

 

Just get the switch part, and keep your existing lock and key.

 

From your screen name I assume you have a 79 which is a CIS fuel system. Hot start problems on CIS systems are normally caused by fuel pressure leakdown which can be caused by a bad check valve, leaking injectors or a leaking accumulator. By cycling the ignitiion switch you are repressurizing the fuel system. Before replacing the ignition switch try adding techron or gumout fuel system cleaner and check the accumulator for leaks.

Dennis

 

Very true. However if the starter is not working, it's the switch. If the starter is working but the engine is not catching, it's not the switch and I would try the above.

 

Dennis, don't "assume" (you just make an "*** out of u and me!") 79 is my birth year. But I do have a 79, and an 89. The 89 was the one causing problems this time.
I don't understand how a bad ignition switch could be causing the car not to start? It turns over fine, is this a common problem? The car has been running fine now, I'm getting over all this real quick...

 

Information that should have been in the original post

Then we would not have to make you an *** or guess what kind of 928 we are trying to diagnose long distance over the internet

Greg Phillips

 

Some folks jumper the fuel pump relay so the current goes through the ignition switch and various other kinds of abuse, and that heats and weakens the connection quality. Also I think the starter signal has its own set of contacts since ON and START are different spots. All the starter needs from the ignition switch is enough voltage and current to engage the solenoid (big relay) with the cranking power coming directly from the battery.

 

BB79 it would be helpful if you put the year of the car your working on in your thread, this will make assumptions less assumptious.

BTW, Dennis is pretty sharp when it comes to the older cars, he was working on the best guess scenario given the lack of information in the original post !


That point clarified , from the new information it sounds like a relay, try swapping the LH relay with the horn. Get a fuse relay chart here www.928gt.com find page 2 then click on tips/links and download your year chart, keep it in the car.
With this piece of info you should check the fuses for their correct amperage and that you do infact have the correct part numbered relay in the correct position. Any relay that you remove can be opend up and check the internal contacts for arcing/burned also check the pins see if any look like they have corrosion on them if so then the blower box may need to be resealed.
Also smell the relays you remove, if they smell burned then they may be on their last legs

 

Oh, I know. I was just kidding. More vehicle info would have helped!

 

Yep, I know something else that would be more appropriate but for some reason I don't expect it.

Bye

Dennis

 

Thanks for your assistance Dennis,
I know its sometimes hard to figure out whats going on when the info is vauge or non existant.
Then things just turn into a WAG........

 

OK,
I'll add my scenario, 'cause this same problem on Rosy, isn't any of the points prior listed here.

Rosy is an '87 S4. Back in '01, or '02, I did have the relay failure situation.
A couple years ago, I had the same thing happen to me; no start, call the flat bed.
The tow vehicle gets there, go get something out of the passenger side, [ hear the electric locks cycle ] and just before the driver hooks Rosy up to pull up onto the flatbed, on a whim, I ask him to let me try to start Rosy again?
And Rosy fires right up.

What I have found, is that the driver's side door plunger, has stopped working. So, every once in awhile, the computer "senses" the lock system was engaged, and inhibits Rosy's starting system. Turns over, but no fire.

As it looks like replacing the plunger is difficult, I've learned that when Rosy won't fire off, get out, go 'round to the passenger side, open the door, actuate the door plunger [ and the locking system usually cycles, but not always ], even go so far as to operate the electric hatch opener, and Rosy fires right up.
Idiosyncratic, perhaps, but I'm not spending any cash....

BB79, go try operating the passenger and driver's door plungers, and see if'n the vehicle fires off?