Grey Guy

Would anyone be interested in mentoring/laughing-at me trying my first brake job on my '87? I think the last complete brake job was done by the PO about 15 years ago. I'd like to replace the pads, rotors and sensors. I've read the "brake job" posts, but I'm still a little hesitant. I bought the car in March and put it in the shop for: TB, WP, MMs, belts, hoses,... My card needs a break. Thanks.

zoltan944

a bit too far from me to help, im sure someone has some time thats closer to you

morganabowen

I'm in the SFV, and would be very interested in observing the "Brake Job" in person even if it is in Simi Valley I'll follow this post.

blown 87

Get the dampers that go into the back of the pistons also.

S4ordie

Don't you mean "My car needs a brake."

Rob Edwards

Ed-


I'd love to help but am stuck in grant hell until July. If you're not in a huge hurry I could host something later in July, I've got all the 'backup' tools for dealing with rotor screws (impact driver), stripped caliper bolts (spiral extractors), etc. Or you can just try it yourself in the comfort of your own home and count on online help if needed, it's really pretty straightforward- even I can do it. As clean as your car is I can't imagine you're going to run into too much corrosion issues.

EDIT: +1 on the dampers, made a HUGE difference on the GT:

4 of each:

large front brake pad damper 965.351.096.00
small front brake pad damper 964.351.096.01
large rear brake pad damper 964.352.096.00
small rear brake pad damper 996.352.086.01

EDIT: The dampers above fit on my '90 GT's calipers. See Post #22 below for a part # list that is for '87 calipers.

perrys4

Pretty easy actually. Maybe a GTG at Dr. Bobs since Rob is busy???? Dr. Bob?

Grey Guy

Rob E., Thanks for the damper info and the offer.

S4ordie/Dan, Nice turn of a phrase.

blown 87

His is a 87 like mine, all of my dampers were bigger than what was called for, not sure if some one did a brake upgrade or what.

Do not be upset if you do not get the right size the first time.

They are expensive little fellows also IIRC.

Like Rob, I think they are needed for a good brake job.


Couple of hints, get everything as clean as possible,Wear latex gloves so no oils from your fingers touch the friction surfaces.

Wash the rotors in very hot soapy water with scotch brite.

Try to find some BG products Squeal-Stop, it goes on the friction face of the pads, I also put a small amount of Wurth CU1100 on the backs where it meets the dampers.

I cant help you on brake clean, the good stuff has been outlawed for sale in CA, the best there is that is for sale outside of CA is Wurth ART# 1890 99107.

I have all this stuff if you can not find it and need it.

Clean the face of the hub, no rust anywhere.
Keep every thing clean, and then clean it more or they will squeal.

Just my thoughts.

The other Greg

dr bob

Ed--

I'm probably going to the PCA parking lot gathering tomorrow morning, but will be back by 10 or so latest if you want to come by with all your parts and do it here. I've done one or two brake jobs and feel qualified to watch and give advice if needed. Also watched a guy work on a Fiat transmission once, so that's prominent on my resume. I need to get hold of Rolf too to do a brain analysis on his car, so maybe we can do it all in one shot. Otherwise I'm condemned to cutting brush and fixing a roof tile.

I have plenty of tools and supplies, a clean well-lit workspace, and the weather will be overcast. perfect garage weather, IMHO.


Bring a couple big bottles of your favorite brake fluid too, if you haven't replaced it in the last year. We have a flush gismo here that uses a rocking chair and a toilet plunger. Makes short work of flushing the brakes, especially easy since you'll have the hood open and the wheels off already. The Castrol LMA stuff is plenty good for street cars, and is commnly available at most POLAPS.

We are close to the intersection of the 2 and 134 freeways, plus a few hundred feet of Z.

Bill Ball

You know, I haven't used those in years and I don't have any squealing. I put some antiseize where the edge of the pad's backing plate where it contacts the bottom of the caliper and a little on the backside of the plate in the piston contact area. That seems to work well enough, at least with the pads I use (either stock or recently, Metal Masters). I ordered the dampners a couple of times, but kept receiving the wrong ones. I have a nice collection of wrong sizes.

Grey Guy

O.K. I'll be honest, I didn't really think I was going to get a response and definitely not this fast. Dr. Bob you caught me on my heels. My daughter is leaving this weekend for Uganda to work with "Children of the nations" (www.cotni.org). Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeease give me another opportunity.

perrys4

Here I go and tout your knowledge and know how and you post like a hillbilly, lol. He probably went and paid to have it done....

blown 87

I have a fair size box of them also, but I think it is a crap shoot of if they will squeal or not with them or with out them.

The Wurth CU1100 I use is a adhesive Anti-seize, very thick, very high temp.

I do know, I almost never have a brake job come back into the shop for squeal, maybe one a year.

dr bob

I was hoping somebody was going to enhance the visual of the rocking chair and the toilet plunger as a flush tool. My expectations dashed again. FWIW, the Fiat trans was in my 246 Dino. Not so hillbilly now?


Ed, next weekend has Father's Day on Sunday so I can't sign up for group stuff. Doing a neice's wedding after that, effectively pushing available weekend play days into July. I think the 12th is 'put the GT motor back into the GT' weekend with Rob Edwards' "old" car. Somewhere in the middle of all this, my intake parts will come back from the painters and I'll have a day of cleaning and wrenching on that. Then prep for the trip to OCIC in Texas gets into high gear, with a third-week goal of ready-to-leave. What works for you?