robot808

What if I told you I pulled the plug on the MC and hit the brakes with the engine on and nothing happened?
OK, so I guess I am going to run through all of the individual tests in the WSM and see what turns up.

SharkSkin

Bob, not good.

However, if the gauges are working for oil pressure and temp, you should be OK if you just keep an eye on them. You apparently can't trust the warning lights so you have to make sure the most important system on board -- the driver -- is in tune with things. Check your lights and fluid levels at every fuel stop. Sounds like you need to go through the warning system with a fine-tooth comb, but I'd say wait till you get back from SITM. Does the system charge OK, and does the alternator charge light work properly? It should, it's not tied in with the warning system.

robot808

Thanks Dave,
I have a radar detector onboard that shows voltage at a steady 13.2V. I will definitely check everything at every stop. This is my first real road trip in the shark, so I would have anyway.
Somehow I just feel better that you didn't try to talk me out of going.

M. Requin

One more question- when you first turn on the ign switch, do ALL the warning lights light up briefly? Esp the belt tension light. Reason I ask is because you mentioned a 3-5 minute delay after startup before you get the big finger, err, exclamation point, and that is characteristic of that circuit.

SharkSkin

Sounds good, Bob. I have a truck that I put 250K miles on, and it has no oil pressure/level or coolant temp warning lights, just gauges. You can live without the lights for a while. I know how it is taking a long drive after doing a lot of work(or the first long drive ever). The biggest problem on that first long trip is remembering to watch the road instead of the instruments.

So the alternator light never comes on? Does the car continue to charge OK at idle, and when driving with the lights on?

Martin, I think the tension warning was first installed no earlier than the first 32V cars.

robot808

Dave,
Altenator seems good. No trouble (knock on wood) at idle or with lights on.
BTW, is that the truck that you just totally ripped apart and put back together? Cos I don't wanna do that.

SharkSkin

Yep, that's the one. It ran great with two cracked heads(cracked through the exhaust seats). It developed a coolant leak at one of the freeze plugs at the rear flange inside the bellhousing so the smog techs wouldn't even look at it. I had a cheap local rebuild done as a WYAIT, that's when the heads were magnafluxed and the cracks found. It had nothing to do with the lack of warning lights.

robot808

ok, new question:
if your oil pressure dips low for a second, that would set off the light, right. perhaps my oil is too light. why else would the light come one after three of four minutes of driving? engine temperature is normal.
thoughts?

SharkSkin

If it's the oil pressure warning, the light will go out as soon as you have oil pressure back. Does it stay on?

5W sounds pretty damn thin to me. What do you think the engine block temp is at the extreme cold end of the operating range when you will be starting it? IOW, if it's 40 below outside, but you're not going to start the car, don't worry about it. If you will never start it with the block below freezing, you may have other options.

robot808

sorry I have been a while in responding, I found a leak in my new fuel hose job and was up until 3am dropping the tank again.
dave, I have snow tires and do drive these chicago winters. that being said, the light seems to correspond with a dip in pressure, like when it is bogged down a little. the light remains on until the car is turned off though.
thanks everyone for all the help.

SharkSkin

You may have an issue with the warning system. Sounds like you're stuck with thin oil, at least in the winter.