Intermittent engine stall problem?
#1
Track Day
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Connecticut
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Intermittent engine stall problem?
Hi folks, I don't post very often at all but I am pulling my hair out trying to figure out this problem. A couple of years ago my 86.5 would stall about a 1/4 mile from my house, then restart within 15 minutes and be fine for months before it would happen again. It would happen two or three times a year, always within a 1/4 mile from house on the first drive in the morning. Last year it happened but stayed dead for about a week, then came back to life for another month or so before dying again at the end of the season. This year it is running normally except for cutting out for about 5 seconds several times each time I drive it. It always immediately restarts this year. I have fuel pressure and injector signal. There is no spark when it is dead. I have cleaned grounds at the battery, above the relay panel, at the steering column, and at the coils. I have cleaned the cluster connections. I have replaced all fuses and relays to do with engine management, and fuel supply. I have checked the connections at the engine control computers, checked the distributor cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, all in good condition. The car will run poorly on one coil, so that rules out a faulty coil. I have replaced the crank sensor and it's connector is in good condition. I also replaced the ignition switch. I can't think of anything else except possibly a bad computer? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Dave
#2
Team Owner
disconnect the battery and clean both of the connections .
Also go to the hot post and take it apart, clean the wire connections with a pink eraser and open the back sides of the 14 connector and see if there might be a worn insulation.
Also go to the CE panel and check that all of the wire connectors have all of the individual wires fully seated , sometimes if the connectors are not put on the CE panel in the right way the wires can get pushed out of the connector housings.
Look up at the bottom of the blower box above the CE panel and see if you find water tell tales, if so then it might be wise to reseal the blower box
Replace the fuel pump fuse with another new fuse.
If there is an alarm jumper it so to remove it from the system
Also go to the hot post and take it apart, clean the wire connections with a pink eraser and open the back sides of the 14 connector and see if there might be a worn insulation.
Also go to the CE panel and check that all of the wire connectors have all of the individual wires fully seated , sometimes if the connectors are not put on the CE panel in the right way the wires can get pushed out of the connector housings.
Look up at the bottom of the blower box above the CE panel and see if you find water tell tales, if so then it might be wise to reseal the blower box
Replace the fuel pump fuse with another new fuse.
If there is an alarm jumper it so to remove it from the system
#3
Rennlist Member
With all that you have done I doubt this is it, but you checked the coil wires themselves (in addition to the grounds)? You say it is spark and not fuel so I am leaning toward a failing EZK. I would try to get a loaner to swap in.
#4
Track Day
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Steve, Yup, checked all secondary ignition, all in good condition. Please excuse slow response to questions, I can only run in from shop to office once in a while. Is there anybody within driving distance of Connecticut who has a spare to borrow or sell?
#5
Team Owner
try putting your brain into another car, if there is a problem you wont damage the loaner brain
#6
Three Wheelin'
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I've battled the same issue before. After replacing almost everything common, I got a new (used) computer and it never stalled out again. I'd sure like to know which component goes bad in the computer, because I could probably make a living fixing them with the prices they get for refurbished units.
+1 to trying your unit in another car if possible.
+1 to trying your unit in another car if possible.