Cooling issue
05-22-2009, 09:29 PM
#17
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alright well i flushed the radiator and less than a gallon of fluid came out so i used a hose to try to flush water through the system and there is a clog is there any suggestions to clean it (other than take it to a shop) before i have to blow alot of cash sorry for the delay and the newbie-ness
05-22-2009, 09:50 PM
#18
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Steve--
There's only a gallon or so in the radiator. The rest comes out through a couple drain plugs in the block. Nothing below the bottom of the water pump will drain through the radiator. So the heads and the reservoir should drain Ok with the radiator plug open, maybe another gallon or two, but it's really slow when the car is cold and the thermostat is closed. The thermostat is probably your 'clog'. There are still a couple gallons above the closed thermostat.
The factory workshop manual shows the locations of the block drains. If they've not been out in a while, they will be tough to get open. Junk sometimes clogs the block galleys over time,so you may end up poking and prodding through the plug holes to get the old coolant and junk out of those lower block areas.
Grab a gallon of Zerex G05 coolant and a few gallons of diestilled water. Grab a bottle of Redline Water Wetter at the parts place when you get the coolant.
I PM'd my phone number to you. Ring me and maybe I can come by and get you going. It can't be too tough a problem, really.
There's only a gallon or so in the radiator. The rest comes out through a couple drain plugs in the block. Nothing below the bottom of the water pump will drain through the radiator. So the heads and the reservoir should drain Ok with the radiator plug open, maybe another gallon or two, but it's really slow when the car is cold and the thermostat is closed. The thermostat is probably your 'clog'. There are still a couple gallons above the closed thermostat.
The factory workshop manual shows the locations of the block drains. If they've not been out in a while, they will be tough to get open. Junk sometimes clogs the block galleys over time,so you may end up poking and prodding through the plug holes to get the old coolant and junk out of those lower block areas.
Grab a gallon of Zerex G05 coolant and a few gallons of diestilled water. Grab a bottle of Redline Water Wetter at the parts place when you get the coolant.
I PM'd my phone number to you. Ring me and maybe I can come by and get you going. It can't be too tough a problem, really.
05-24-2009, 12:41 PM
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I experienced similar issues a couple of years ago. Idling at stop lights, drive-through windows etc. the temp gauge would peg before long, warning light..etc. revving to 2-3K would mitigate it some. Aux fan would never come on, had to install a switch jumpering the relay to provide some added cooling. I got quite tired of this and wanted to find a solution. Here is what I found to work for me...YMMV
Auxiliary fan will not function without jumpering the relay if the Freon Temp Switch on the A/C receiver/dryer is toast. Replace that switch and the aux fan should work. Relatively inexpensive and easy, though refilling R-12 is costly.
Adding silicone oil to the viscous fan will improve its performance. Good time to replace the bearing as well. Here is a write-up on the silicone oil procedure. Relatively inexpensive and not too difficult. I Highly recommend this, no doubt this solved my problem.
Installing the 75 degree thermostat and aux fan switch may also assist. I installed them and don't regret it. In colder weather (< 30 F) it seems to be a tad sluggish until it warms up, could be my imagination though.
I think before I jumped to a conclusion regarding coolant flow I would try the freon switch and viscous fan fixes.
Hope this helps.
Auxiliary fan will not function without jumpering the relay if the Freon Temp Switch on the A/C receiver/dryer is toast. Replace that switch and the aux fan should work. Relatively inexpensive and easy, though refilling R-12 is costly.
Adding silicone oil to the viscous fan will improve its performance. Good time to replace the bearing as well. Here is a write-up on the silicone oil procedure. Relatively inexpensive and not too difficult. I Highly recommend this, no doubt this solved my problem.
Installing the 75 degree thermostat and aux fan switch may also assist. I installed them and don't regret it. In colder weather (< 30 F) it seems to be a tad sluggish until it warms up, could be my imagination though.
I think before I jumped to a conclusion regarding coolant flow I would try the freon switch and viscous fan fixes.
Hope this helps.
05-24-2009, 01:15 PM
#21
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would you not use about 2 gallons of coolant since the system holds about 4 gal. That is if your going to drain the block.
The block plugs are 13 mm heads, add some anti seize to the plugs prior to installation
The block plugs are 13 mm heads, add some anti seize to the plugs prior to installation
05-24-2009, 05:14 PM
#22
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Stan--
Here in always sunny, never freezes SoCal, the 25-30% coolant concentration is more than adequate, especially with the Water Wetter to add the remaining water pump seal lubrication. Heat transfer is better with the lower concentration to boot.
I use teflon pipe dope on the bolt threads, and some minimum torque that seems to be a lot less than what it typically takes to get the old bolts out. Anti-seize is OK too, but then you need to be more aggressive with the tightening torque to get a good seal with the aluminum washer. Either method will work.
Still no word from Steve either here or PM or phone. Hopefully he's out driving the car today. Wx ix seventies and sunny after a bit of morning haze. Darn near perfect driving weather. hate to see it wasted...
Here in always sunny, never freezes SoCal, the 25-30% coolant concentration is more than adequate, especially with the Water Wetter to add the remaining water pump seal lubrication. Heat transfer is better with the lower concentration to boot.
I use teflon pipe dope on the bolt threads, and some minimum torque that seems to be a lot less than what it typically takes to get the old bolts out. Anti-seize is OK too, but then you need to be more aggressive with the tightening torque to get a good seal with the aluminum washer. Either method will work.
Still no word from Steve either here or PM or phone. Hopefully he's out driving the car today. Wx ix seventies and sunny after a bit of morning haze. Darn near perfect driving weather. hate to see it wasted...
