porkensioner install question regarding plugging water pump hole
05-10-2009, 04:19 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
porkensioner install question regarding plugging water pump hole
Step 2, below says to plug the water pump hole, since the new tionser doesn't bolt there:
2) Coat 8 or 10mm set screw with RTV, and plug water pump hole. Install flush with outside face, as shown.
Both of the set screws included with the kit are too large to thread into that hole. Would it be ok to use a hex head bolt, like one of the extra timing cover bolts, or the original bolt used with the old tensioner, to plug this hole, including rtv?
I've included the pictures to show what I'm talking about. The picture from ken's instructions shows the plugged water pump hole circled at the top right. You can see the set screw with hex head screwed flush.
The other picture shows the 2 set screws that I have with my kit circled at the top left.
2) Coat 8 or 10mm set screw with RTV, and plug water pump hole. Install flush with outside face, as shown.
Both of the set screws included with the kit are too large to thread into that hole. Would it be ok to use a hex head bolt, like one of the extra timing cover bolts, or the original bolt used with the old tensioner, to plug this hole, including rtv?
I've included the pictures to show what I'm talking about. The picture from ken's instructions shows the plugged water pump hole circled at the top right. You can see the set screw with hex head screwed flush.
The other picture shows the 2 set screws that I have with my kit circled at the top left.
Last edited by Brett Jenkins; 10-22-2013 at 11:25 AM.
05-10-2009, 04:22 PM
#2
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok, I see from Rob Edwards excellent addition to the instructions that the hex head plugs are probably for pre S4 cars, but do I still need to plug this hole?
05-10-2009, 04:48 PM
#3
Inventor
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'87-up, the 10mm set screw replaces the pivot bolt (and water pump reinforcement bracket), which is no longer required.
If you leave the bolt in, no plug is needed. Rob decided to leave the rusty bolt installed.
Here's how it looks with the pivot removed.
If you leave the bolt in, no plug is needed. Rob decided to leave the rusty bolt installed.
Here's how it looks with the pivot removed.
05-10-2009, 05:00 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
So, the item circled in this picture doesn't actually go all the way through and seals at the other end?
Last edited by Brett Jenkins; 10-22-2013 at 11:25 AM.
05-10-2009, 05:47 PM
#5
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It sure looks like there is a coolant jacket behind the bolt hole on my 87.
I was concerned about nothing but a dab of RTV holding my the set screw in.
After taking with Ken I cut the pivot arm off of the original bolt, ground it, polished it and then painted it.
I put a seal ring and some Hylomar on the screw threads to finish it.
pic
I was concerned about nothing but a dab of RTV holding my the set screw in.
After taking with Ken I cut the pivot arm off of the original bolt, ground it, polished it and then painted it.
I put a seal ring and some Hylomar on the screw threads to finish it.
pic
05-10-2009, 07:06 PM
#6
Inventor
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If the water pump is clean and dry, red loctite w/set screw looks the best to me, but you can use any ol' bolt to plug the hole.
The thread sizes are:
8 x 1.25
or
10 x 1.5
Last edited by PorKen; 05-10-2009 at 07:22 PM. Reason: bolt threads
05-11-2009, 08:40 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
I didn't want to start another thread and couldn't find the answer in a search, so I'll throw the question in here.
Is it ok for the oil pump gear to turn independent of the crank and camshafts during a TB change? I mean, does it have to line up any specific way relative to the crankshaft and camshafts?
Is it ok for the oil pump gear to turn independent of the crank and camshafts during a TB change? I mean, does it have to line up any specific way relative to the crankshaft and camshafts?
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05-11-2009, 09:38 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Its a good question to clarify.............the OEM bolt plugs the antifreeze behind the water pump and bottoms to its flange.
The Porkensioner kit has a stud with no flange so you have to insert flush with approprite sealant. I followed Kens advice and RTV works just fine. Given that my new WP came with a new OEM bolt I may use it........unless someone needs one.
The Porkensioner kit has a stud with no flange so you have to insert flush with approprite sealant. I followed Kens advice and RTV works just fine. Given that my new WP came with a new OEM bolt I may use it........unless someone needs one.
