the flyin' scotsman

As I finally complete all my winter projects I'm ready to install the alternator but its somewhat dirty from sitting below weeping pwr strg reservoir hoses.

Any advice on what 'cleaner' can be used without causing damage?

I'm thinking brake cleaner at least............TIA

Marine Blue

I used the Castrol cleaner very carefully. You will want to spray only the outer body, scrub with a brush and rinse with a hand sprayer and wipe dry. Brake Cleaner sprayed onto a cloth to remove any remaining residue on the metal surfaces only. The rest can be cleaned using paper towles or shop rags. Q-Tips soaked with quick detail spray works well on the end where the electricals are visible. It takes time but its safe and avoids damage. I should have taken some before/after shots.

ammonman

If the PS fluid has been sucked into the interior I would take it to a re-builder for cleaning, if you have one local. I had the same issue and a local shop did a complete cleaning, replaced both bearings, and re-cut the commutator for $90US. It came back squeaky clean and should last another 20 years.

Mike

Sailmed

Sooooo...
Are you driving your new car yet?

Just askin...

dr bob

The only things sensitive to cleaners are the bearings. If you can manage it, remove the rear cover, the drive pulley, and clean everything. If the brushes are worn excessively get new ones. Replace the bearings after everything is cleaned and reassemble. Harsh solvents like brake clean risk damage to the varnish insulation. Use a vapor degreaser, or something water based. Be sure it's all completely dry before reassembly. Consider an overnight in the toaster oven set on warm.

Mrmerlin

you can also use electronics cleaner.
It is good for removeing the oil and other crud that gets sucked into the alternator,
Also wise to replace front and rear bearings after cleaning, and its best to separate the alternator to remove all of the stones that have been sucked into it ( this will happen if the alt inlet hose has been off for any length of time)
After a good spray down blow it out with compressed air, I would try to keep the fluid from gettting into the regulator, so remove it prior to splitting the case.
Also fix the PS leaking hoses, replace both of the hoses that go to the res tank as well as the reservoir

ammonman

Hey Mike. How goes the Euro?

Not on the road yet. One of the trans cooler lines that was repaired some time in the past got the metal tubing cut into when the hose ferrule was cut off. The cut is on the sealing surface between the barb and the shoulder for the ferrule and was not allowing the hose and clamp to seal properly. I am trying to source a replacement from one of the breakers. I got one line but the shape did not match the one I have and had to send it back. While I'm home this week I am going to see if I can find a shop to TIG up the cut on the line I have so the new hose will seal properly. Once the line issue is dealt with the only thing remaining will be to get my latest parts order delivered and I will be one the road. While I wait I have been cleaning grounds, fender wells, wheels and such along with wrapping wire bundles where the factory casings have come off from age. Tried to get the front tow socket plug out today, but no luck yet.

Mike

Bill Ball

The bearings are sealed. They are exposed to far worse than power steering fluid while hanging out in the elements in the exposed alternator. I wouldn't worry about them unless you have one that is whining. Also, automatic transmission fluid, used in our power steering systems, is a pretty good detergent/cleaner on its own. I'd probably use dilute Simple Green or the like to wash out any residue and blow the alternator dry.

the flyin' scotsman

The pwr strg lines were replaced; project 16 this past winter.

I'm also replacing the plastic duct so when I have that off I'll look at the brgs etc...........thx for all input.

shadowknight

DP Engine degreaser has worked will for me.

Bill Ball

The bearings are buried inside. You'll have to remove and disassemble the alternator to look at them.

MBMB

I took my alternator apart, and I'm afraid I didn't observe very closely before doing so. Should there be a ~3mm gap between the front case and the rear case?

Rob Edwards

Yes.

Rob Edwards

The case through bolts double as the mounts for the air duct on the back, so when they're fully seated there will still be that gap in the case halves.

MBMB

Thanks.