blown 87

So you have a 2 gauge set up, what were the readings.

tveltman

I referenced everything against cylinder 3. When I pressurized it, I didnt hear any significant hissing (the little out of the dipstick was to be expected), and cylinder 1-4 all came out to be somewhere between 0% and 5% of cylinder 3, though I don't have the numbers in front of me right now. Cylinders 5-8 all came out around 30%, and there was very audible hissing coming from the MAF sensor, leading me to believe that the intake valves were shot. Unfortuntately, I did this test with some of the plugs in and some of the plugs out (I removed them in the firing order as I went along). When I repeated the test with all the plugs out and the engine at TDC with cylinder 1 in the firing position, I got audible leakage through cylinder 6 (which also should be at TDC in this position). I'm not sure how that makes sense, and I've asked my dad (left the car with him, had to go back for work, stupid "day job" getting in the way of my passion/frustration) to repeat the leakdown test with all the plugs out and see what he finds. I think that no matter what the diagnosis, the heads are gonna have to be pulled, at least on the driver's side, but until I have more information, I can't do or say much. As a side note, I'm fairly certain that the backfire I smelled out of the MAF contained coolant, because I remember it being vaguely sweet-smelling.

blown 87

You tested all the cylinders with #1 at TDC?????????
And you are using a leakdown gauge, correct?
Is it a single gauge or a 2 gauge unit.

tveltman

i followed the instructions on the gauge. You set #1 at TDC plug in the fitting to the spark plug port to form an airtight connection. You plug the gauge into the fitting and the cylinder will become pressurized. Then you adjust a valve so a second guage (which reads leakdown in %) is set to 0%. This is the reference for all the other cylinders. Then you rotate the engine so that each cylinder reaches TDC in the firing position and read the leakdown on them relative to the first cylinder you standardized to. This is why I say I dont have absolute leakdown numbers, but rather only relative ones. However, since I couldn't hear any leakage coming from the intake, the exhaust, or the water tank, and only a small amount from teh dipstick, I assumed that the valves were seated correctly (which of course doesnt mean that the seal is great, only that it isnt terrible), and so relative leakdown was good enough. Believe me, if I had an absolute leakdown gauge, I'd use it instead, but I am sadly lacking in that department. Hope that helps to clarify

Bill Ball

PERHAPS a cam gear came loose. The engine does turn over with variable resistance and it will move forward when a cam goes by the lobe TDC but it shouldn't "clunk." That's why I'm thinking loose came gear. You did so much work on the car, it could be a lot of things, but, as others have recommended, you should check the timing. I would pull the timing belt covers. Perhaps a distributor rotor came loose. Perhaps a cam gear.

tveltman

I will work on that, then. Also, where is Alamo CA? I'm moving to Palo Alto (grad school at stanford) and I'd like to bring the car to the area, assuming I can get it running)

blown 87

Ok, you have a 2 gauge set.

If you have the kind of gauge I think you do it is a absolute type gauge, you just need to set it up to 0% before you hook it up to a cylinder.
It should have a quick disconnect that will not allow air out on the cylinder side.
Set the first gauge to what ever reference the manufacture wants, usually 100 or 80 PSI and the second gauge to 0%.

Using #1 to reference all other cylinders by is not a good idea, what if # 1 is the weak one?

I always take all the plugs out first and on any cylinders that are low, I listen to where the air is going.

Mrmerlin

I am wondering if you have finished checking the timing as i suggested.
and if you did that prior to doing a leak down test.
If so what was the condition of the timing marks?
Were any of the cam/pulleys loose?
Did the timing belt test loose?
how did you check the timing belt?
Did you refit the crank damper on correctly?
facing the engine you should be able to read the numbers.
Would you please post a picture of the belt run preferably with the timing covers removed

tveltman

I have not yet completed all of the inspection. I live in New Jersey, but the car is stored at my father's house (which is in Maryland), and I had to come back to Jersey for work. I have instructed him in what he should do, and I will just have to wait until he finishes it

Mrmerlin

I hope that checking the timing is the first thing prior to turning the engine over

blown 87

I think every body knows it is a cam timing issue, the big question is, did it get the intake valves.

So that needs to be the first 2 things to check.

tveltman

Yeah, he's gonna check the timing first thing

Mrmerlin

please report your findings and post any pictures

WallyP

Agreed that the problem appears to be a cam timing issue.

Possibilities:
- The passenger-side intake camshaft is broken.
- The passenger-side intake camshaft gear or spider is faulty or loose.
- The cam drive chain is loose, or sprocket teeth are broken.
- The passenger-side camshaft timing has slipped due to a loose or faulty timing belt.

Note that none except for the last of these will be shown by checking the timing marks on the cam drive gears. That check should, of course, still be done immediately.

Bill Ball

Near enough - about 40 miles away. Let us know when you move here.