Supercharge or Turbo
#16
Nordschleife Master
I am getting myself one of these: http://www.kuhnperformance.com/twin_turbo.php
If I wanted a better throttle response but could settle for lower max hp, I'd get the Lysholm (aka twin screw) supercharger.
If I wanted a better throttle response but could settle for lower max hp, I'd get the Lysholm (aka twin screw) supercharger.
#17
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For the $6K+ for a SC or Turbo set up, you could just get an S4.
Nitrous has no lag and can run as powerfully as any SC or Turbo. It's safer and gentler on your internal components. In amounts under 100hp it actually helps prevent detonation, allowing you to keep stock timing.
$500 can get you moving with a 150RWHP kit, that you can take to your next car...
Nitrous has no lag and can run as powerfully as any SC or Turbo. It's safer and gentler on your internal components. In amounts under 100hp it actually helps prevent detonation, allowing you to keep stock timing.
$500 can get you moving with a 150RWHP kit, that you can take to your next car...
#18
Race Director
For the $6K+ for a SC or Turbo set up, you could just get an S4.
Nitrous has no lag and can run as powerfully as any SC or Turbo. It's safer and gentler on your internal components. In amounts under 100hp it actually helps prevent detonation, allowing you to keep stock timing.
$500 can get you moving with a 150RWHP kit, that you can take to your next car...
Nitrous has no lag and can run as powerfully as any SC or Turbo. It's safer and gentler on your internal components. In amounts under 100hp it actually helps prevent detonation, allowing you to keep stock timing.
$500 can get you moving with a 150RWHP kit, that you can take to your next car...
#19
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For the $6K+ for a SC or Turbo set up, you could just get an S4.
Nitrous has no lag and can run as powerfully as any SC or Turbo. It's safer and gentler on your internal components. In amounts under 100hp it actually helps prevent detonation, allowing you to keep stock timing.
$500 can get you moving with a 150RWHP kit, that you can take to your next car...
Nitrous has no lag and can run as powerfully as any SC or Turbo. It's safer and gentler on your internal components. In amounts under 100hp it actually helps prevent detonation, allowing you to keep stock timing.
$500 can get you moving with a 150RWHP kit, that you can take to your next car...
#20
Administrator - "Tyson"
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The setup on my car I still consider a Murf928 16V prototype since there are only two out there. One is a well abused track car and mine has been running with boost since April 2006.
After a little while with 9psi, I installed the smallest pulley for my setup which now gives me 16-17psi.
IMO the 16V cars require a bit more prep work before boosting. There is a lot more rubber (mostly fuel lines) I would replace before bossting one. Along with the intake boots, vacuum lines, have the injectors clenaed etc.....
"Hang with"? If by that you mean being able to run with boosted 32V cars I agree.
As for stock 32V 928's, they look really nice in my rear view mirror getting smaller and smaller.......
Sure, an S4 that has about 150rwhp less than my car & weighs more.
My setup cost less than $6k.
After a little while with 9psi, I installed the smallest pulley for my setup which now gives me 16-17psi.
IMO the 16V cars require a bit more prep work before boosting. There is a lot more rubber (mostly fuel lines) I would replace before bossting one. Along with the intake boots, vacuum lines, have the injectors clenaed etc.....
As for stock 32V 928's, they look really nice in my rear view mirror getting smaller and smaller.......
My setup cost less than $6k.
#25
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I did use N2O for years before I finally said enough, come on back after you have 8-10 years of running nitrous.
You can think it is safer and easier on parts, I know better, so does damn near every Pro mod racer in the USA.
You can think it is safer and easier on parts, I know better, so does damn near every Pro mod racer in the USA.
#26
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Been proven time and time again. When the oxygen splits off and leaves the nitrogen behind, the nitrogen has a cushioning effect on the pistons. Also N2O lowers intake temps 80* +/- which helps prevent detonation. Finally running one jet richer on fuel allows for stock tuning and a safer, slightly rich run under spray.
Try adding 100hp through boost with out any timing retard at all. An intercooler attempts to get air back to ambient after heating up during compression. It never gets all the way to ambient. With N2O, the intake temp starts at ambient, or a little above and drops from there. Much safer for the same HP boost as a SC or Turbo. Even with low boost you have to retard timing with a turbo.
Also consider N2O can add all the power at once over the entire rpm range. No ramping (Unless you want it). That means you can add 150hp at 3500rpms and all the way up to 6000rpms. HOn a turbo or SC that adds 150hp at 6000rpms, how much is added at 3500rpms? N2O has a much flatter torque curve for the same peak hp, compared to boost systems. That means for two equal cars, one N2O and one boosted, with 450rwhp peaking at 6000rpms, the nitrous car would accelerate faster than the boosted car as it makes more power down low and the same up high.
Now when you start hitting big numbers (adding over 150RWHP) things start to get a little more equal and retard is needed.
Bottom line, most folks seem to hate N2O for one of two reasons.
1. They know of or heard of some idiot who did a poor install with too much power that grenaded their engine. Too many years of opperator error have now given Nitrous a poor name. I have seen as many or more turbo grenades, but since most set ups are shop installed, the shop gets blamed instead of the turbo system it self.
2. If it's too good to be true it must be... What? You got more RWHP from 1/6th of the investment I spent? Couldn't be, it must have major flaws.
Now, I openly admit I want to go boost eventually. Nitrous is not on tap all the time. When the bottle is empty, you're done playing for the day. Also N2O is all or nothing. No partial throttle boost. Try to speed out of a turn and hit the N2O and you're hating life. However driving around town, it can't be beat. Flick one switch, and you're rocking. I can spin one dial at a stop light to change from +100rwhp to +200rphp with out changin tune.
Try adding 100hp through boost with out any timing retard at all. An intercooler attempts to get air back to ambient after heating up during compression. It never gets all the way to ambient. With N2O, the intake temp starts at ambient, or a little above and drops from there. Much safer for the same HP boost as a SC or Turbo. Even with low boost you have to retard timing with a turbo.
Also consider N2O can add all the power at once over the entire rpm range. No ramping (Unless you want it). That means you can add 150hp at 3500rpms and all the way up to 6000rpms. HOn a turbo or SC that adds 150hp at 6000rpms, how much is added at 3500rpms? N2O has a much flatter torque curve for the same peak hp, compared to boost systems. That means for two equal cars, one N2O and one boosted, with 450rwhp peaking at 6000rpms, the nitrous car would accelerate faster than the boosted car as it makes more power down low and the same up high.
Now when you start hitting big numbers (adding over 150RWHP) things start to get a little more equal and retard is needed.
Bottom line, most folks seem to hate N2O for one of two reasons.
1. They know of or heard of some idiot who did a poor install with too much power that grenaded their engine. Too many years of opperator error have now given Nitrous a poor name. I have seen as many or more turbo grenades, but since most set ups are shop installed, the shop gets blamed instead of the turbo system it self.
2. If it's too good to be true it must be... What? You got more RWHP from 1/6th of the investment I spent? Couldn't be, it must have major flaws.
Now, I openly admit I want to go boost eventually. Nitrous is not on tap all the time. When the bottle is empty, you're done playing for the day. Also N2O is all or nothing. No partial throttle boost. Try to speed out of a turn and hit the N2O and you're hating life. However driving around town, it can't be beat. Flick one switch, and you're rocking. I can spin one dial at a stop light to change from +100rwhp to +200rphp with out changin tune.
#27
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I have been running 12 PSI with no timing retard in my Corvette for the last 5 years.
I do have a MSD multi step retard, but have never needed to hook it up at my boost levels, the knock counts are just fine.
What are your knock counts at 100 HP?
I have been down both roads, there is a sharper pressure spike in the BMEP with N2O, and it is harder on parts.
I ran N2O for almost 20 years in different apps.
Like I said, I have been there.
you have bought into the marketing hype, it does lower the intake charge, but what you need to be thinking is what happens inside the chamber, that is what pounds bearings and pistons.
I do have a MSD multi step retard, but have never needed to hook it up at my boost levels, the knock counts are just fine.
What are your knock counts at 100 HP?
I have been down both roads, there is a sharper pressure spike in the BMEP with N2O, and it is harder on parts.
I ran N2O for almost 20 years in different apps.
Like I said, I have been there.
you have bought into the marketing hype, it does lower the intake charge, but what you need to be thinking is what happens inside the chamber, that is what pounds bearings and pistons.
Been proven time and time again. When the oxygen splits off and leaves the nitrogen behind, the nitrogen has a cushioning effect on the pistons. Also N2O lowers intake temps 80* +/- which helps prevent detonation. Finally running one jet richer on fuel allows for stock tuning and a safer, slightly rich run under spray.
Try adding 100hp through boost with out any timing retard at all. An intercooler attempts to get air back to ambient after heating up during compression. It never gets all the way to ambient. With N2O, the intake temp starts at ambient, or a little above and drops from there. Much safer for the same HP boost as a SC or Turbo. Even with low boost you have to retard timing with a turbo.
Also consider N2O can add all the power at once over the entire rpm range. No ramping (Unless you want it). That means you can add 150hp at 3500rpms and all the way up to 6000rpms. HOn a turbo or SC that adds 150hp at 6000rpms, how much is added at 3500rpms? N2O has a much flatter torque curve for the same peak hp, compared to boost systems. That means for two equal cars, one N2O and one boosted, with 450rwhp peaking at 6000rpms, the nitrous car would accelerate faster than the boosted car as it makes more power down low and the same up high.
Now when you start hitting big numbers (adding over 150RWHP) things start to get a little more equal and retard is needed.
Bottom line, most folks seem to hate N2O for one of two reasons.
1. They know of or heard of some idiot who did a poor install with too much power that grenaded their engine. Too many years of opperator error have now given Nitrous a poor name. I have seen as many or more turbo grenades, but since most set ups are shop installed, the shop gets blamed instead of the turbo system it self.
2. If it's too good to be true it must be... What? You got more RWHP from 1/6th of the investment I spent? Couldn't be, it must have major flaws.
Now, I openly admit I want to go boost eventually. Nitrous is not on tap all the time. When the bottle is empty, you're done playing for the day. Also N2O is all or nothing. No partial throttle boost. Try to speed out of a turn and hit the N2O and you're hating life. However driving around town, it can't be beat. Flick one switch, and you're rocking. I can spin one dial at a stop light to change from +100rwhp to +200rphp with out changin tune.
Try adding 100hp through boost with out any timing retard at all. An intercooler attempts to get air back to ambient after heating up during compression. It never gets all the way to ambient. With N2O, the intake temp starts at ambient, or a little above and drops from there. Much safer for the same HP boost as a SC or Turbo. Even with low boost you have to retard timing with a turbo.
Also consider N2O can add all the power at once over the entire rpm range. No ramping (Unless you want it). That means you can add 150hp at 3500rpms and all the way up to 6000rpms. HOn a turbo or SC that adds 150hp at 6000rpms, how much is added at 3500rpms? N2O has a much flatter torque curve for the same peak hp, compared to boost systems. That means for two equal cars, one N2O and one boosted, with 450rwhp peaking at 6000rpms, the nitrous car would accelerate faster than the boosted car as it makes more power down low and the same up high.
Now when you start hitting big numbers (adding over 150RWHP) things start to get a little more equal and retard is needed.
Bottom line, most folks seem to hate N2O for one of two reasons.
1. They know of or heard of some idiot who did a poor install with too much power that grenaded their engine. Too many years of opperator error have now given Nitrous a poor name. I have seen as many or more turbo grenades, but since most set ups are shop installed, the shop gets blamed instead of the turbo system it self.
2. If it's too good to be true it must be... What? You got more RWHP from 1/6th of the investment I spent? Couldn't be, it must have major flaws.
Now, I openly admit I want to go boost eventually. Nitrous is not on tap all the time. When the bottle is empty, you're done playing for the day. Also N2O is all or nothing. No partial throttle boost. Try to speed out of a turn and hit the N2O and you're hating life. However driving around town, it can't be beat. Flick one switch, and you're rocking. I can spin one dial at a stop light to change from +100rwhp to +200rphp with out changin tune.
#28
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You are right, there is prof out there, as close as your NHRA division race track, but the facts do not agree with what you want them to.
One other thing, a dry type blower set up is always going to be safer than a wet type anything.
Ever seen one cross fire?
I have.
One other thing, a dry type blower set up is always going to be safer than a wet type anything.
Ever seen one cross fire?
I have.
#29
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You are implying that blowers don't blow engines apart...thats NOT true...
You put enough power through a blower it will blow it straight off the top of an engine OR put pistons through the side of the block....
When I was in Top Fuel I saw LOTS OF BLOWERS disappearing skywards and engines with MASSIVE holes in them, sometimes the pistons went so far we never did find them...
On a Top Fuel engine you HAVE to have straps holding the blower down.....so WHEN it blows the idea of the straps is to try and keep the blower attached roughly to the engine so it doesn't kill anyone nearby....look at ANY Top Fuel engine thats ready to race and you will see them....
ANY method of forced induction has it risks to an engine, but I personally have seen a lot more supercharged engines blow than Nitrous engines....
All the best Brett
#30
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Brett, how many dry type blowers have you seen blow the blower off the manifold?
That is what I thought
Big difference in a top fuel motor and the kind of blowers we run on the street with fuel injection.
compressed air by itself will not take a intake off, but you add fuel and it will at the slightest problem.
Apples to oranges.
We are talking about a dry type blower vs a wet type N2O setup.
Top Fuel has nothing to do with the type of blowers we run on the street other than the case to the TS, both are positive displacement types, it ends there for the most part.
If there is no fuel in the intake, how can you have a explosion?
The answer is you cant have one in the intake.
Detonation in the cylinders will kill any motor, NA, N2O, or boosted.
That is what I thought
Big difference in a top fuel motor and the kind of blowers we run on the street with fuel injection.
compressed air by itself will not take a intake off, but you add fuel and it will at the slightest problem.
Apples to oranges.
We are talking about a dry type blower vs a wet type N2O setup.
Top Fuel has nothing to do with the type of blowers we run on the street other than the case to the TS, both are positive displacement types, it ends there for the most part.
If there is no fuel in the intake, how can you have a explosion?
The answer is you cant have one in the intake.
Detonation in the cylinders will kill any motor, NA, N2O, or boosted.
Hi
You are implying that blowers don't blow engines apart...thats NOT true...
You put enough power through a blower it will blow it straight off the top of an engine OR put pistons through the side of the block....
When I was in Top Fuel I saw LOTS OF BLOWERS disappearing skywards and engines with MASSIVE holes in them, sometimes the pistons went so far we never did find them...
On a Top Fuel engine you HAVE to have straps holding the blower down.....so WHEN it blows the idea of the straps is to try and keep the blower attached roughly to the engine so it doesn't kill anyone nearby....look at ANY Top Fuel engine thats ready to race and you will see them....
ANY method of forced induction has it risks to an engine, but I personally have seen a lot more supercharged engines blow than Nitrous engines....
All the best Brett
You are implying that blowers don't blow engines apart...thats NOT true...
You put enough power through a blower it will blow it straight off the top of an engine OR put pistons through the side of the block....
When I was in Top Fuel I saw LOTS OF BLOWERS disappearing skywards and engines with MASSIVE holes in them, sometimes the pistons went so far we never did find them...
On a Top Fuel engine you HAVE to have straps holding the blower down.....so WHEN it blows the idea of the straps is to try and keep the blower attached roughly to the engine so it doesn't kill anyone nearby....look at ANY Top Fuel engine thats ready to race and you will see them....
ANY method of forced induction has it risks to an engine, but I personally have seen a lot more supercharged engines blow than Nitrous engines....
All the best Brett