Mongo

I am getting ready to jump on a V1 soon and I'm looking at mounting techniques. Since I"m getting more irritated at the fact that the search function only reads 1 of my key words, I am wondering what methods people have used out there to wire their radar detectors directly to the power in their car. The dome light so far looks the easiest for me to do, but how does the circuit hold up to the additional power? Would it blow the interior light fuse out if the detector is still on and the interior lights are at the same time?

Anyways, my car had what looks like a detector installed before and it would pretty much be a direct wiring swap putting the phone cord style power supply in place of the AC/DC plug that was wired in. This time I will solder it in instead of monkey it like the previous owner did to my car.

Andre Hedrick

Ask Nicole.

Mongo

Nicole? Are you surfing here today?

Alan

You can do that - it won't blow a fuse but its a bad idea... it really needs to be connected to an ignition switched supply.

It is not hard to do it the correct way - simply run your supply wire across under the front of the headliner - remove the A-pillar on the passenger side and run it down into the dash above the central electric panel. At that location pair it to an ignition fed medium power fuse (7.5A-15A) using an ATC add-a-circuit.

My V1 is located there on the glass behind an aftermarket rear view mirror - I have similar wiring to both V1 remote display, V1 remote audio and to the power supply...

Alan

jthwan22

check this option out. http://www.mgtmotorsports.com/?gclid...FQNaFQodCgKXGQ

I have the remote display in the ashtray. I don't like it much. I may move it behind the steering wheel.

Mongo

Alan, what fuse number/terminal did you connect yours to on the panel?

First one that comes to my mind is the one that controls the radio.

eugkim

After installing the remote unit in 3 cars (Audi S4, A8L, Cayenne T), I gave up on the remote unit. I end up installing the main unit close to the headliner, so you can't see it from the rear anyway. However, I did run the power from the fuse box, up the a-pillar, and across the headliner.

Alan

Thats an interesting idea... but there is no fuse that controls the radio - at least not on the CE panel - there may possibly be one on the back of the radio...

I'd suggest using the fuse for the cigar lighter or HVAC (both accessory circuits) or seat heater circuit or rear wiper or backup light (all ignition feeds). Which fuse # depends on year
I'm assuming in this that its an S4+ if its earlier you will need a different fuse adaptor (same idea).

The top connector on the S4 fuses is power in - use that to feed the new fuse (bottom is fuse out) - so have the new supply line exit the add a circuit at the bottom...

Alan

Alan

I have my remote display in a custom box in the middle of the dash at the base of the windshield - not for stealth - just for easy visibility while driving. My V1 is so far bhind the mirror its impossible to see the display (from anywhere...). I also have a modified remote audio unit mounted under the handbrake cover with a custom pot/**** arrangement (using Porsche *****) - for similar reasons - can't reach the V1 controls. This is also adapted so I can cancel V1 alerts with the small left side GTS column stalk (the digi dash cancel control).

I spent several years changing this all around - its now been this way for >5 years and I consider it to just perfect for my use...

Alan

Alan

That's an interesting site - had not seen that before.

Many mount their V1s under the mirror and this mount is a good choice for that... the suction cups always seem to let go eventually and the V1 is heavy...

Personally though I find that location too intrusive to my road view and though its good for V1 front/rear visibility the V1 is also plain for all to see - I like mine to be more hidden from casual thieves eyes.

The direct to glass mount I made up is cheap, rock solid and allows the placement as shown behind and offset to the right of the mirror (only aftermarket works). In this location its fairly hidden (esp with blackout material i have on the glass center/top), the visors stay fully functional and it has a perfect view fore & aft...

Downsides are more fiddling on install, need for remote display at least, audio too if you need volume control...

Alan

Mongo

Alan where did you get your materials to make your dash mount for the V1?

BTW, I have been offered an Escort Passport 8500 X50 for next to nothing that is only a year old from someone who totalled their car. I'm thinking of going with that instead of a V1. It may not have the distance/protection, but I'm not exactly in need of something with maximum range as I no longer go flying down freeways or backroads anymore. I would like to dashmount this Escort...

Alan

Andy - the V1 is behind the rear view mirror - only the remote display is on the dash top...

It is just an ABS box cut on an angle with a window hole in it (and textured) - was probably from Radio Shack.

I have an Escort 8500x50 in my truck - its a good detector but in the 928 I'd be lost without the V1 - I guess I've just got very used to it and all the extras I have installed... the V1 falses a lot more than the 8500 does though...

FREAKINHEAT

This is some interesting info for a hardwire. Everyone here seems to be high on the valentine one. I purchased the escort 9500 based on performance test havin it coming out on top. Yes even higher then the v1. Hows anyone tried the hard wire kits found on ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Escort-Passport-...item5ad1d25560

atb

I keep mine mounted on the passenger side visor. Power cable runs through the dome light hole and out the driver side sunvisor base, then runs under the A pillar cover down under the dash. I have the V1 junction box mounted high on the driver side foot well under the dash. From there one line goes through the pod where I have the remote display mounted between the steering wheel and the cluster. The power line goes from the junction box to the fuse panel to the factory car phone fuse. It is a ready go to circuit, all you need to do is add the fuse.

Nicole

Mine was wired by SharkSkin - we ran a Valentine Direct-Wire Power Adapter to the fuse box, and Dave plugged it into an unused socket. Has worked reliably ever since.

I did the same in the Saab, but wired it into the cigarette lighter circuit.