Lizard928

Well after struggling with the SPEC 3 clutch, new rod bearings and crank scraper with the engine in the car. I decided to simply pull the engine.
This was easy as all I had to disconnect was a half a dozen bolts and 2 fuel lines.
Everything else had already been removed/disconnected.

The reason I decided to pull was that when doing the oil change we found a tensioner pad screw attached to the drain plug. And I was considering pulling the cams putting on the racing cam chaing, as well as replacing the valve stem seals.

The reason for wanting to replace the valve stem seals is that on heavy decel I got a nice cloud of blue behind the car. Anyways, one thing led to another and the engine came out of the car. Then I decided to replace the headgaskets as I am planning on adding the turbos at this time too. Well then I found that the oil scraper ring on the #6 cyl has obviously blown out and has left some damage to the cyl wall (I knew this cyl hasnt been perfect for awhile). Enough that it would need a slight oversize and a new piston as I can see some damage on the side of the piston. (havent pulled it yet) But other than that the motor looks great.

So I am left with a decision, do I simply put the heads back on and see how far it will go till it breaks. Or do I rebuild my spare engine with good bores as I have all the bits.

I am leaning towards the latter, and splitting the cradle to have the oil passages machined out larger in addition to the drysump. Then I am considering getting a set of S4 pistons off of a local fellow and putting them in as he has good pistons and that would give me a lower CR (8.5:1 roughly) which means that I could pump more boost into it.

I will post up some pics of the damage in a few min here. So that you can give me your opinions on what you think I should do.

the flyin' scotsman

I voted for 1,3 and 4.

#1......you get back on the road for the driving season.
#3......with #1 done you can take your time and do the spare motor right.
#4.......because Sean said so

IcemanG17

One guideline I try to follow in regards to 928's (especially the widow right now) is this:

Its cheaper to fix it right ONCE, than fix the same problem TWICE......

Jim M.

I vote for three and four.

Three because as Iceman says its cheaper and better to fix it right once rather than twice. Besides the second time is always more expensive.

Four because, well he is!

Lizard928

Brian,

All that it will cost me is a pair of headgaskets, and valve stem seals to put this one back together.

Malcolm, it isnt a matter/worry about getting it back together for the driving season, that will happen either way!

GlenL

1 then 3

Actually go with #1 until #3 is ready.

What else would you do with the engine that's in there?

Lizard928

there is a picture of the damage. As you can see it is only that one path and right around the oil scraper ring area.

As to option #3, I am leaning towards it.
I could have the engine done and back together in a week or so, so there is no real worries there.

Lizard928

Glen,

As to what i could do wth the engine that I just pulled. Well I possibly could send it off to be nicasiled. as well it is the thicker blocks which would be perfet for a stroker engine for someone. (not me)

Lizard928

Forgot to add this pic



there you can see the missing screw. And you can see that this 86.5 engine made it out of the factory with the 87 tensioner system (thankfully)

GlenL

That's ugly.

Instead of being a bit of a Devil's Advocate, I switching to #3.

BC

Always do it all, and do it right, the first time. That cylinder looks bad from the pic. But it also looks pretty worn where the ring is not cracked.

Those napier rings are just very weak. I used them in the 4.5L since thats all that was available but on the 5L I used the 951 rings.

A masochist is someone who purposely hurts themselves. What you are doing here is SAVING yourself effort, time, and headache.

Lizard928

Brendan,

this is after fighting with the clutch, new rod bearings, crank scraper, and dry sump pan with the engine IN the car. I could have saved alot of time doing those things if I had simply pulled the engine to start.

Oh and I forgot, pulled the thick rubber matt of the engine firewall with the engine in. Yup that was fun. But doable

BTW the rings that are in this engine are the origonals and they are not the same weak rings that the S4 has. I do however have new S4 rings AND 951 rings. So if you know anyone who needs a new set of S4 rings send them my way

Glen,
What is funny is that even with the piston (moved it during the leakdown test) in the middle of that spot I had around 30% leakdown, considering the engine was cold and hadnt been run in a few months. That is sealing better than I expected.

the flyin' scotsman

That screw coulda went all sorts of places........very lucky but at least its steel.

I haven't found the alumimium washer that fell off the tensioner oil feed line..........yet

BC

Well, yes, you should have pulled the engine. But there is always a mental block about how large an engine pull is. But it makes everything else so easy. Enjoyable even.

Lizard928

Nope I knew it wasnt difficult. I have done it a few times. I kinda just keep increasing what I am going to do to the car!

I already had the cross memer, manifolds, rack, wiring everything else pretty much out.
As I said all I had left to do was disconnect the engine ground, undo the 4 bellhousing bolts. And disconnect the 2 fuel lines.

Malcolm,
I think I would be more worried about that aluminum ring! it isnt magnetic and if it gets sucked into the oil pump gear. Well lets just say your oil pump will stall, probably strip the belt and well lets leave it at that!