Tampa 928s

I have replaced my HP suction hose and air is getting ready to go, getting it done before the paint! Last week the blower would not work completely dead. since the inside is in pieces I thought it was a connection problem. I checked everything and it started working but no voltage to the freeze switch. Now it's dead again, If I bridge the relay every thing runs. There is no power to the head at all. When I checked I saw voltage on a 4-pin connector that goes into the head, it has two red wires on one side but only when the relay is bridged.
I also remember my windows operate with the key out could it be a ignition switch problem.

Tampa 928s

Is there a way to test the blower internal sensor, it seems relay x pin 86 is routed trough this.

Tony H.

I don not if this will help or not but I had no blower at all on my 86 and I ask for help, I did not even know if I would have cold air if I fixed the blower.

I was told to replace the resister pack under the hood where the reain guard covers it from the blwer motor itself.

Well long story short, they do not make the older resister pack any more you have to get the newere style , I suggest fro 928srus Roger tyson, ther are some slight wiring chages that have to be made to make the newer resister pack work.

Inside the pack the jumper wire from 4 to 8 pin needs to be removed from 8 and then put the number 6 pin in the position of old number 8pin. inside the resister plug then try all again,

It solved all of my problems. but i was testing the wrong relay the whole time because i am new to 928s and once I found out the proper relay all was fine. X relay is the relay for blower motor.

The resister pack can cause a ton of issues. I am not saying it will fix yours but it fixed mine.

The pack is a little hard to reach inside the air box but with small hands and a skinny arm it can be reached after you remove the rubber seal between the blower and the blower tuber/box under the hodd next to the bolwer on the left side under the hood. I used a jumper to the relay and found that I was using the wrong relay after removing my whole panel I put it all back together and it all worked fine, I have a whole thread on the things I went through to fix mine. If you find it it will help you out alot , there is some great info on theis whole problem in that thread.

Search for my thread by name ( Tony H. Blower issue)

Good luck.

Tony H.

Hey me again sorry for the typing mis spells but I hope you get the point i was trying to make. Test the relay X for voltage from seperate ground near door to 30 of the relay and then 86 of the relay you should have 12+ volts on both of those, the relay is marked to tell you which is 30 and whic is 86, looking at the relay 30 is the far left one and 86 is the botom one 87 is the far right one and 85 is the top MP ground.

If you have power on 30 and 86 use a jumper to go from 30 to 87 and if your blower runs you have relay issue. If you do not have power on 86 but you do have it on 30 there is a wiring issue btween the 8s on th relay to the head or behind the panel itself. Make sure you are testing relay X I made that mistake and waisted alot of time, the little line on the centrasl electrical panal will poin to the relay but you have to look close at it they don't make it easy to read which way it pionts.

Counting from the left including the unused on it should be the 5th on on the top row or relays. Hope this helps it drove me crazy but persistence paid off. some one also said to check to make sure your inside sensor is drawing in air by blowing smoke across it while you have the jumper from 30 to 87 and blower running and key on.

If you jump 30 to 87 and the blower does not run you have wire to tract froom 87 to the blower or the head. The best thing i can tell you is to find my thread on this issue and read all of them it will help you.

(Tony H. Bower Issue)

Tony H.

Me agin I know my typing Stinks but try to over look it and you will know what I am saying.

Tampa 928s

Tony if I bridge the relay x it works, I have continuity from all the wires from pin 86 of the relay but no voltage with out it being bridged. I know pin 86 enables the relay but can't get my head around the circuit as far as where the 12v is comming from for pin 86.

Tampa 928s

Power on 30
Ground on 85
No power on 86

Alan

This has nothing to do with the internal sensor - don't bother looking there yet...

What if you replace Relay X? did you try it?

The head unit is what turns on the blower relay to power the rest of itself...

So what exactly is the problem? Blower won't run without jumpered relay? AC won't run without jumpered relay also ? or never works?

Alan

Tampa 928s

I swapped relays:
Blower won't run without it jumped:
A/c wont's run with out it jumped.
I have no voltage on the head with out it jumped.
Could this be an ignition switch issue my the reason I say this is my windows will work with key out.
I am having trouble finding the source of the head voltage.
Problem has come and gone, worked then dead again.
I am reading Tony H. old post now.

Tampa 928s

Note:
With relay bridged I have 12v on my freeze switch and A/C lamp is on, blower works all speeds. Turning on ignition with relay bridge gives me the same results.

Alan

Windows working with key out is only a window regulator relay issue - if this is the Euro - it is probably configued to work with key out while the doors are open... check?

The check for ignition switch (X-Bus) issues is to see if the foglights work in accessory & ignition position...

Check fuse 8 this supplies ignition power to the head unit and this is what turns on the blower relay

Alan

Tampa 928s

As usual your correct fuse 8, I purchased a fuse kit and used the tester they supplied to indicate a go/no go fuse condition. The green led came on indicating it was good. I pulled it and it's bad, with the interior out any wire may have grounded causing the fuse to go. This is a good lesson on cheap tools I did not use my meter. a lesson well learned.
Once again thanks everyone for all your help. now I can get back to sanding!