StratfordShark

I followed the Nichols procedure, but installed new reservoir (it has filter included) as final step:

http://www.nichols.nu/tip792.htm

Helps to have assistant to fire up engine and turn wheel as you add new ATF fluid

shmark

Well I did the same as Stan, drained from the rack by loosening the banjo bolts..then removing them completely. I used a turkey baster to pull the rest from the reservoir, then cut off the old, greasy, crappy reservoir lines and removed the old pressure and return lines. My PO installed a brand new rack a couple years ago (which is nice) but apparently used the same old original lines and crush washers (which isn't). That means leaks started a while ago. All new lines going in now, should be good for another 20 years.

mirousse

Sorry about the late feedback on your more than delailed advices. Other duties came across...

I think I have enough information to either do the simple or the extensive fluid change. Thanks a lot for your inputs.

Michel.

concor

Nichole's walkthrough was fine yes. I did use a coke bottle instead of a 3 foot tube to a container outside of the car. Cause I didn't had a 3 foot tube Also, the new reservoir comes with plugs at the bottom, which is handy.

StratfordShark

What a great idea! I have the tubing to empty to bucket next to car, but this is great. You even get a good look at the fluid. I was planning a flush soon (new reservoir on way) and was going to follow MrMerlin's plan of draining at rack this time, but coke bottle so neat I may do it this way. Probably depend on whether my wife around/willing (two don't necessarily coincide) to help starting/shutting down.

Last time I removed pressure line at rack, I think I had to lower sway bar anyway to get socket on banjo bolt, so not quite as quick a method as it sounds.

Mrmerlin

FWIW if you dont drain the rack at the banjos you may still have dirty oil in it, running the pump without moving the wheels back and forth will leave dirty fluid in the rack.