How to drain power steering fluid
#1
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Location: Boisbriand, Québec, Canada
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Hello all,
Winter's is over up here! Car was moved over from its winter storage to my own garage.
I wish to drain and replace the current power steering fluid with a fresh one (Dextron IV). Can someone detail the procedure please?
Thanks.
Michel.
1989 928 S4 ROW A/T
Winter's is over up here! Car was moved over from its winter storage to my own garage.
I wish to drain and replace the current power steering fluid with a fresh one (Dextron IV). Can someone detail the procedure please?
Thanks.
Michel.
1989 928 S4 ROW A/T
#2
Rennlist Member
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This is how to drain and flush. There are two hoses on the resevoir, supply to pump and return. The return is also a cooler , the pipe is on rad. support ahead of condensor. You'll need about 6ft. of 5/8" heater hose, short piece of pipe and several clamps. Remove return line from resevoir and cap off resevoir . You can make a plug to cap off with a small piece of the heater hose. Cut a small piece of the hose and put a bolt in and clamp. Now connect the return line to the heater hose with the pipe. Make sure pipe fits in return line hose and heater hose easliy and clamp both together.
Fill resevoir and secure hose in an oil drain bucket. Have someone start engine and run 2qts. of atf through. It empties fast, shut down when empty(will moan). Remove hose, cap and connect return. Fill system and run until all air is purged. The resevoir has a filter and is cheap. Wise to replace if you are going this far.
Fill resevoir and secure hose in an oil drain bucket. Have someone start engine and run 2qts. of atf through. It empties fast, shut down when empty(will moan). Remove hose, cap and connect return. Fill system and run until all air is purged. The resevoir has a filter and is cheap. Wise to replace if you are going this far.
Last edited by ZEUS+; 04-09-2009 at 10:50 PM.
#3
Rennlist Member
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I did as Zeus describes.
If you buy a new reservoir beforehand it comes with plugs. Drain the existing res. with a turkey baster, swap out the old for new res. and proceed per above.
If you buy a new reservoir beforehand it comes with plugs. Drain the existing res. with a turkey baster, swap out the old for new res. and proceed per above.
#5
Team Owner
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the easiest way to drain and flush the system is to remove one of the banjo bolts on the bottom of the rack let it drain turn the wheels back and forth a few time with the engine OFF.
Refit the banjo refill the old reservoir run the engine and refill the system .
Turn the steering wheel to circulate the new fluid.
Shut off the engine Remove BOTH of the banjo bolts and let it drain turn the wheels a few time to purge the rack.
Remove the old reservoir and refit the new one as well as replacing both of the lines that go to it.
Use new sealing washers on the rack and refill the reservoir, start the engine turn the wheel back and forth a few times.
Dont hold the steering wheel against the lock, shut the engine off wait about 5 mins for all the air to bleed out of the fluid and top up as necessary.
Use Dextron 3 or 4
Refit the banjo refill the old reservoir run the engine and refill the system .
Turn the steering wheel to circulate the new fluid.
Shut off the engine Remove BOTH of the banjo bolts and let it drain turn the wheels a few time to purge the rack.
Remove the old reservoir and refit the new one as well as replacing both of the lines that go to it.
Use new sealing washers on the rack and refill the reservoir, start the engine turn the wheel back and forth a few times.
Dont hold the steering wheel against the lock, shut the engine off wait about 5 mins for all the air to bleed out of the fluid and top up as necessary.
Use Dextron 3 or 4
#6
Rennlist Member
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the easiest way to drain and flush the system is to remove one of the banjo bolts on the bottom of the rack let it drain turn the wheels back and forth a few time with the engine OFF.
Refit the banjo refill the old reservoir run the engine and refill the system .
Turn the steering wheel to circulate the new fluid.
Shut off the engine Remove BOTH of the banjo bolts and let it drain turn the wheels a few time to purge the rack.
Remove the old reservoir and refit the new one as well as replacing both of the lines that go to it.
Use new sealing washers on the rack and refill the reservoir, start the engine turn the wheel back and forth a few times.
Dont hold the steering wheel against the lock, shut the engine off wait about 5 mins for all the air to bleed out of the fluid and top up as necessary.
Use Dextron 3 or 4
Refit the banjo refill the old reservoir run the engine and refill the system .
Turn the steering wheel to circulate the new fluid.
Shut off the engine Remove BOTH of the banjo bolts and let it drain turn the wheels a few time to purge the rack.
Remove the old reservoir and refit the new one as well as replacing both of the lines that go to it.
Use new sealing washers on the rack and refill the reservoir, start the engine turn the wheel back and forth a few times.
Dont hold the steering wheel against the lock, shut the engine off wait about 5 mins for all the air to bleed out of the fluid and top up as necessary.
Use Dextron 3 or 4
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#8
Team Owner
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never had any problems doing it this way and no chance of any fire from spraying ATF fluid.
And less chance of damaging the pump if it gets run dry
Most of the old fluid will be removed and the rack itself will have a chance to drain as well, then it will be mixed with the few oz in the cooler line.
And less chance of damaging the pump if it gets run dry
Most of the old fluid will be removed and the rack itself will have a chance to drain as well, then it will be mixed with the few oz in the cooler line.
#9
Rennlist Member
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I would add that after flushing the fluid and replacing the res. this didn't cure the other problems.
The lines leak and the ATF goes everywhere. Now that I'm into many other projects this Spring including the WP I'm replacing the lines.
Dwayne has an excellent write up in DIY.
The lines leak and the ATF goes everywhere. Now that I'm into many other projects this Spring including the WP I'm replacing the lines.
Dwayne has an excellent write up in DIY.
#10
Rennlist Member
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I would add that after flushing the fluid and replacing the res. this didn't cure the other problems.
The lines leak and the ATF goes everywhere. Now that I'm into many other projects this Spring including the WP I'm replacing the lines.
Dwayne has an excellent write up in DIY.
The lines leak and the ATF goes everywhere. Now that I'm into many other projects this Spring including the WP I'm replacing the lines.
Dwayne has an excellent write up in DIY.
As to Stan's suggestion on draining from the rack, my only problem was access to those banjo bolts - there were too many other things in the way, and I didn't want to disassemble lots of stuff to get to those bolts. The hose worked fine for me. Definitely get the new resirvour.
#11
Team Owner
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if your going to take the time to remove any hose from the reservoir then you should absolutely replace the lines going to it, this way it wont leak for atleast 5 years maybe more.
Usually the starter Elex harness is routed under the Banjo bolts, by removing the clamp on the Xmember next to the rack/starter this makes it easy to remove the banjos
Usually the starter Elex harness is routed under the Banjo bolts, by removing the clamp on the Xmember next to the rack/starter this makes it easy to remove the banjos
#12
Nordschleife Master
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You guys are so fancy.
If you loosen the banjo bolts at the rack, most of the fluid will drain out. Then snug them down and put in the quart or so that come out. More than enough to freshen the fluid.
If you loosen the banjo bolts at the rack, most of the fluid will drain out. Then snug them down and put in the quart or so that come out. More than enough to freshen the fluid.
#13
Team Owner
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Glen more than a few times the freshly loosened Banjo sealing washers will now start a slow leak,
This leads to overtightening of them and possible snapping the bolts or damage to the rack........
This leads to overtightening of them and possible snapping the bolts or damage to the rack........
#14
Nordschleife Master
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So he should be removing some 20yo rubber hoses? That's not smart.
The crush washers are easily replaceable and dirt cheap. Don't get excited with those bolts.
The crush washers are easily replaceable and dirt cheap. Don't get excited with those bolts.
#15
Team Owner
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When i got the 928 International rebuilt rack it also came with some loctite it was a brown fluid to dip the new sealing washers in for the Banjo bolts. This was to assist in sealing the washers.
And absolutly remove the wet or leaking 20YO hoses and replace them if there is a wet hose witha crimped connector simply dremel the crimp and replace the hose and use a screw type clamp to secure it.
Also replace the reservoir and the feed line to the pump .
Just swapping out the fluid isnt the best choice as the reservoir is usually original and contains all kinds of contaminates in its non replaceable filter
And absolutly remove the wet or leaking 20YO hoses and replace them if there is a wet hose witha crimped connector simply dremel the crimp and replace the hose and use a screw type clamp to secure it.
Also replace the reservoir and the feed line to the pump .
Just swapping out the fluid isnt the best choice as the reservoir is usually original and contains all kinds of contaminates in its non replaceable filter