Window squirters how to remove
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#8
Rennlist Member
'85. Related washer problem: I spent 4 hours cursing and removing the pump from above the pass wheel bay. Found the hose to the hood popped off at the pump. I will clamp or glue that on. I know the hoses in the hood are an example of Porsche overengineering. I'm thinking there would be less back pressure on the pump if I remove the extra hoses and check valves. this would also remove the high intensity system. What will remain is one hose from the pump followed by a heck valve after the round connector that fits into the hood, followed by a "T" and a hose to each squirter? Any reason not to do this?
#9
Electron Wrangler
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If everything is clean and operational there shouldn't be any appreciable difference in pressure with without. What you propose is probably workable but minus intensive. Check valves near to the nozzles help reduce evap loss as well as avoid cross pumping between systems - without them close to the nozzles hard water will tend to clog up the nozzles more... and with only a single check valve you will get some nozzle leakage on cornering - a pain creating water stains around the nozzles...
Alan
Alan
#10
Chronic Tool Dropper
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You guys do run distilled water in your washers, right? Unless you are really plagued with film buildup on the glass, distilled water does a credible job cleaning the glass. Leaks/dribbles/etc are less obvious on the paint too.
My biggest use for the washers is when I accidentally bump the stalk and trigger the pump spray for a few seconds. Ditto on the headlight washers.
FWIW, the check valves, hose and T fittings are cheap enough to just replace them when they get rusty inside. Rust from the springs is the biggest contaminent in my system these days. Thought about disconnecting the power to the pumps, but then I couldn't brag that everything works as designed.
My biggest use for the washers is when I accidentally bump the stalk and trigger the pump spray for a few seconds. Ditto on the headlight washers.
FWIW, the check valves, hose and T fittings are cheap enough to just replace them when they get rusty inside. Rust from the springs is the biggest contaminent in my system these days. Thought about disconnecting the power to the pumps, but then I couldn't brag that everything works as designed.
#12
Electron Wrangler
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Yes I was actually thinking of the earlier unheated ones - much cheaper.
Though the $40 is still not horribly bad its not close to what I was thinking - seems like the changeover to these heated ones was in '84 rather than '87 as I thought...
Alan
Though the $40 is still not horribly bad its not close to what I was thinking - seems like the changeover to these heated ones was in '84 rather than '87 as I thought...
Alan