worf928

That bolt DOES suck. I've done what Malcolm did: removed the lift loop. Lately I've had success using needle nose vice grips to clamp all the bits together so that you don't need three hands where none will fit.

I'll bet that fewer people still have the harness clamp on the lift loop than still have the plastic undertray. The first time I ever saw that clamp was two years ago when I did the verified first timing belt job on an '87. Not a single one of mine had it nor any other I'd done the belt on previously.

Bill Ball

To make that hated bolt easier to install, Jim Morton repalced it with a longer one. Made it much easier to start threading. Once it starts, I use a flexhead Gearwrench.

dr bob

Bill, I gave that some very serious thought. But the original really is just the right length for the way it fits when snugged up. There's just a tiny bit of one thread exposed on the nut side.

For those like me who don't have room for a locking needle-nose in there with your fingers and the bolt, I first tried a long hemostat, which worked OK but was still in the way. In the end I used a nylon circumference clamp, AKA plastic wire tie, to squeeze the clamp closed on the harness bundle. Got the bolt started easily, then cut the tie for final appearance. Tie goes around and across the clamp so it's not in the way of the bolt or where the clamp mates up against the bracket. It took me a couple tries to figure out the correct way to use the tie, but in the end it made this a two minute job instead of a ten-minute job. I didn't have room for a gear-wrench, so the regular old 10mm combo got the duty.

Did I mention how much I love that bolt??

worf928

Oh snap!

You reminded me of what I last did that worked well. I used a short length of (brass) safety wire to clamp everything together (Think bread bag twist tie) with a too-skinny bolt to keep everything aligned. Pull the too-narrow bolt and turn in the correct-sized bolt.

Jadz928

Ten minutes? 1 hour here. I think I could but that in half the next time.


Yep.

dr bob

If I wasn't a stickler for originality, I'd replace the clamp with a nylon tie-wrap cable support. There's a hole for the bolt to go through. After it's screwed down, you then would capture the harness and close the clamp/wrap and secure it. It also wouldn't be too tough to just use a regular wire tie to attach it to the bracket, a bit of accordian sleeve over it all to protect the harness. I know, it's a kind of blasphemy. Reality is that the clamp might go on and off once every several years on mine, timed perfectly with the TB replacement task. Using the regular tie-wrap or a bit of wire as Dave suggests makes it a lot easier to use the correct bolt. Mine will be off again in the next few weeks for the intake and cam covers refresh. Grant me the patience and dexterity... Ooops! Hard to ask for right-handed abilities when using the left hand though.

Jim, I'm not sure I would have lasted an hour with the one bolt.

Earl Gillstrom

I always try to reinstall all the missing nuts and bolts discarded by previous Hacks. But that bolt has always been a challange.
I discovered a new secret wepon. Well not so secret. Skil makes a 1/4" drive battery powered ratchet. Home Depot used to sell it but has stopped. It is skil # F012237200 and sells for ~$40. The best price may be on ebay.
The other neat thing about this ratchet is the freedom from an air hose that you are always tripping over. Also, the battery seems to have a very long shelf life.
It works great with a shortened 10mm socket. I use it also on all the other 10mm hardware on a 928