Can't Quite Get Cam Cover Off!
#1
Racer
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I've been following Dwayne's great writeup on removing the intake and the job's gone so well I figured I'd keep going and take the cam covers off too. I started on the passenger side cover and I've got all the allen bolts out (I only count 12-4 on top, 4 in the middle row, and 4 on the bottom row). I was amazed that none of them stripped or broke-it was great! After getting that done, I fgured I aced the job, but I can't lift the cover off. It's loose, but it seems to hang at the lower left and right corners. On the lower right, there seems to be a tab that's underneath a small allen screw that goes into the back of the distributor-I'm guessing that there's also a tab on the left side because it seems to hang there too, but I can't see it. Is there a technique for freeing it up to lift it off?
#3
Three Wheelin'
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I think there should be 13 bolts in total for each side. Dwayne has a picture of the cam covers off. look at how many holes it has and compare it to yours to see which one you missed.
and yes taking the engine lift mount out makes it easier. you may have to go under the car.
and yes taking the engine lift mount out makes it easier. you may have to go under the car.
#4
Burning Brakes
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On the passenger side be careful of the hall sensor, it's connector is mounted at the engine hoist loop at the front behind the cam sprocket backing plate and it is fragile.
#5
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In addition to removing the engine lift loop and air pump diverter valve, you may have to remove the hall sensor to remove the cam cover. You may also need to unfasten the LH-harness retaining bracket that bolts to the rear of the head.
There are 13 bolts.
There are 13 bolts.
#6
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Just remove the top bolt on the hall sensor, then it will come off. After you've removed the 13th bolt and what everyone else has said. It might make it a bit easier to also undo the clamp that holds the fuel line in place, just to move them down a bit.
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#9
Nordschleife Master
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One thing to be aware of is on that side, there's a long round tube that sticks down quite a way into the heads and means you have to pull the cover towards you as you pull it off.
I removed my hall sensor after I had the cover off (best time to replace the sensor by the way - PITA to do with the valve covers on; I've done it both ways ugh).
#11
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In the middle row from left to right of my VC pic:
the left outer edge, between the 1st and 2nd spark plug holes, between the chain run and the third spark plug hole, between the third and fourth spark plug holes and the right outer edge.
These 5 plus the 4 on the top row and 4 on the bottom...........13
the left outer edge, between the 1st and 2nd spark plug holes, between the chain run and the third spark plug hole, between the third and fourth spark plug holes and the right outer edge.
These 5 plus the 4 on the top row and 4 on the bottom...........13
#14
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#15
Racer
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I guess the old saying is true-a failure to plan is a plan to fail. I'm giving up for the weekend-everything's sore from the contortions I've been going through to try to get access to the hidden nuts and bolts. I'm kind of screwed because I have the car on a KwikLift in the garage-but it's not raised, so I can't get under the car. I didn't even bother to take the belly pan off before starting, so even if I was a skinny kid (which I'm not), I couldn't get underneath. Looks like I'll have reinstall the crossbrace, roll it off the KwikLift into the driveway, then jack it up so that I can get clearance to get underneath. I can't even use the KwikLift since you have to put the end supports on first, then drive up the ramp before lifting the other end. I found the 13th screw-it had already come out and I thought the grommet was a plug or something. This stuff will drive you crazy!