removing the blown head gasket on 88 S4 with pics (gona need a new engine)
#1
removing the blown head gasket on 88 S4 with pics (gona need a new engine)
hello guys
Im removing the last bolt on the exhaust. all the bolts are off the head.
but the head look like its seating really tight, any ideas ? is it okay to hit it with a ruber hamer.
Im removing the last bolt on the exhaust. all the bolts are off the head.
but the head look like its seating really tight, any ideas ? is it okay to hit it with a ruber hamer.
Last edited by namasgt; 03-07-2009 at 05:01 PM.
#2
I never done this but I would remove all the bolts and then put 2 back and tight them somewhat. Leave them pretty loose so when you hit the head with the rubber hammer the head will only move a little bit (somewhat). Other will chime in with better advise :-)
#3
If you have the crank at 45 degrees BTDC, the cams are loose from the belt, and you have removed them. I think Rog was getting you the cam tools.
All bolts are loose, go ahead and smack it with a rubber hammer. Slight tapping on each end you can get to will loosen the head from the block. Wiggle it with your hands, it will come free.
All bolts are loose, go ahead and smack it with a rubber hammer. Slight tapping on each end you can get to will loosen the head from the block. Wiggle it with your hands, it will come free.
#6
okay I pulled it out with the headers it was getting stuck to the steering linkage.
here we go:
-the gasket has a big hole corrosion between #7 and #8, which you can now guess that the head is also corroded in the same spot and in anothere spot between #5 and #6.
-cylinder # 8 has a crack going all the way trough. I had no Idea I was that strong. so I guess we now know where the loud sound came from.
-there was coolant in # 6 which I think is because of the corrosion on the head( this is the second corrosion I mentioned above.
-no crack on head all the valves are there
So what do you guys sujest. whats the next step.
here we go:
-the gasket has a big hole corrosion between #7 and #8, which you can now guess that the head is also corroded in the same spot and in anothere spot between #5 and #6.
-cylinder # 8 has a crack going all the way trough. I had no Idea I was that strong. so I guess we now know where the loud sound came from.
-there was coolant in # 6 which I think is because of the corrosion on the head( this is the second corrosion I mentioned above.
-no crack on head all the valves are there
So what do you guys sujest. whats the next step.
Last edited by namasgt; 03-07-2009 at 03:42 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
Its okay.
I just realized there is 2 corrosion places on the gasket between #5 & 6 and between #7 & 8.
Im thinking that if the force was so high that cracked the cylinder it should have bent the rod too. prior to the big boom sound as I said before I turned the engine 90 degrees backward. could this have contributed to the hydro locking ??again the valves look okay and the pistons are not damaged on the surface.
I will post pics as soon as I get a camera.
thanks for your support.
I just realized there is 2 corrosion places on the gasket between #5 & 6 and between #7 & 8.
Im thinking that if the force was so high that cracked the cylinder it should have bent the rod too. prior to the big boom sound as I said before I turned the engine 90 degrees backward. could this have contributed to the hydro locking ??again the valves look okay and the pistons are not damaged on the surface.
I will post pics as soon as I get a camera.
thanks for your support.
Last edited by namasgt; 03-07-2009 at 11:07 PM.
#10
Ali, time to build a stroker engine. Let me or Rog know what you plan to do.
In order to either boost the moral, or have some fun, come join us tomorrow morning for the drive, then you will know why we love these cars. I'm sure there will be an open seat.
In order to either boost the moral, or have some fun, come join us tomorrow morning for the drive, then you will know why we love these cars. I'm sure there will be an open seat.
#11
Pretty sure there was a used 5.0 engine on CL in DFW,
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/1056674920.html
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/1056674920.html
#14
I’m kind of disappointed not from the crack but from the 2 holes in the gasket. that means the other side could be like that too, and it also could mean that there could be some running 928s out there that have the same corrosion in the gasket, but it has not become catastrophic yet. And it could mean that if I buy a used engine it could have the same gasket problem.
Im still thinking what caused the engine to hydro lock when I was turning it, I bet the turning back wards had to do something to it (note: the timing belt did not get jammed, I was watching it).
I guess the lesson is, take the spark plugs out during a T-belt job just to be safe.
any ways Im gona go clean up, and get a beer . I will post pics as soon as possible.
#15
that would be nice sean, thanks for the offer. But I have a test next week so I cant come.
I’m kind of disappointed not from the crack but from the 2 holes in the gasket. that means the other side could be like that too, and it also could mean that there could be some running 928s out there that have the same corrosion in the gasket, but it has not become catastrophic yet. And it could mean that if I buy a used engine it could have the same gasket problem.
Im still thinking what caused the engine to hydro lock when I was turning it, I bet the turning back wards had to do something to it (note: the timing belt did not get jammed, I was watching it).
I guess the lesson is, take the spark plugs out during a T-belt job just to be safe.
any ways Im gona go clean up, and get a beer . I will post pics as soon as possible.
I’m kind of disappointed not from the crack but from the 2 holes in the gasket. that means the other side could be like that too, and it also could mean that there could be some running 928s out there that have the same corrosion in the gasket, but it has not become catastrophic yet. And it could mean that if I buy a used engine it could have the same gasket problem.
Im still thinking what caused the engine to hydro lock when I was turning it, I bet the turning back wards had to do something to it (note: the timing belt did not get jammed, I was watching it).
I guess the lesson is, take the spark plugs out during a T-belt job just to be safe.
any ways Im gona go clean up, and get a beer . I will post pics as soon as possible.
I doubt turning the engine backward had anything to do with the hydrolock, unless it jumped time.
The reason I say that, is that on fuel engines (nitromethane) you always turn them backwards before you crank them, to ensure that there is no nitro puddled up.
A tablespoon of nitro will blow the heads off of a very strong motor if it goes off at the wrong time.
Once again, sorry for this happening to you, that had to be a sick feeling when you pulled the head off and saw that.