LeoDioxide

So, after a couple months of mopping up some brake fluid from underneath the clutch pedal, I finally got around to replacing the master cylinder. I used the cut-a-hole-in-the-fender idea, worked great.

Tell me, is it possible to bleed using the two person method? I jacked up the passenger side and tried for at least an hour before stopping with a weak pedal. Doesn't disengage at all

Here are some fun photos as to how corrosive brake fluid is!

a4sfed928

It will be difficult but it will work. Did you bench bleed the cylinder before you installed it?

robot808

Leo,
All the best options are laid out in the DIY section. The one thing I will say about them is, stay patient. It took me a long while to get my clutch feeling really good again. Everytime I thought I had it, I would find out I didn't. Took a few weeks of trying and lots and lots of drinks. Then it just happened. Good luck.

Jadz928

What he said...

You know how many times I've burped a clutch master? ...and a little reverse bleed of the clutch slave peppered in is a good thing.

LeoDioxide

Did not bench bleed, but I see patience is the key. Thanks for the input.

SharkSkin

FWIW, I found it fairly easy to R&R the entire clutch hydraulic system as a unit, and bench-bleed the unit before putting it back in the car:



More details here. This approach eliminates all of the gyrations, praying and cussing that go along with the conventional method. Props to Stan(MrMerlin) for suggesting this approach.

docmirror

If I had to do it again, I'd pull the whole hyd assembly and get it filled on the bench, then install it in the car. While it's longer to do that, it's much higher probability than redoing the bleed 4,5,6,7 or 8 times in the car.

Fabio421

What year is your car? I had the same problem. It turns out that some of the masters are different internally and don't have the same stroke. This equates to less travel in the slave.

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