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cleaning the engine?

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Old 02-24-2009, 08:44 PM
  #46  
worf928
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Here's how I clean. It's never caused me any problems. I submit what I do as the super-ridiculous **** technique and welcome comments, screams, etc.

First, once the plating on the pressure washers, clamps, fuel lines, etc., has "given up" to protect the metal beneath there's little you can do, except to have it re-plated, to get it looking factory. But, all the non-plated bits can be cleaned-up nice and bright.

My engine bay cleaning technique is definitely Afshin-level ****. I never randomly spray, high-pressure or otherwise, anything in the engine bay. I've run across far too many no-start-after-wash stories and far too much evidence of damage by cleaners to want to do the spray-and-rinse-with-a-hose method. In the engine bay, 20-year old electrical connectors are enough of a problem without getting "stuff" in them.

I target where I spray with a small sprayer. I don't want to get anything on any electrical connectors. I have a bunch of the 8oz Griots spray bottles. They spray a small area, fine, and controllable mist. I clean after I disassemble (with a few exceptions.)

I use P21S Total Car Wash diluted 50/50 with water. P21S is Citrus-based. I spray a small area, let it sit for less than a minute and then wipe off heavy deposits. Then another spray and a brush (not metal, I use old tooth brushes) to loosen up the rest of the deposits. Wipe again. Repeat as necessary or until it's clean enough. For stubborn deposits I'll spray the tooth brush with brake clean and brush and wipe. When I'm satisfied with an area, I use a second small sprayer to mist water on the area then wipe. I repeat that once or twice and then dry. I go through a lot of paper towels.

In the middle of doing a full-monty (timing belt, intake, oil neck, cam covers, water bridge) I can make all the visible non-plated parts of the engine look like the second picture in two to three hours. Yep, it takes a lot of time, but there's no issue with chemicals getting into places I don't want them and the results seem pretty ok.

(Note that the P21S will work on the metal if you leave it on long enough. But, it can sit for many minutes without doing anything other than breaking up the grease/dirt etc.)
Old 02-24-2009, 09:33 PM
  #47  
Lizard928
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Originally Posted by OBehave
Isn't it dangerous to hose down the engine compartment? I remember reading numerous times about no start problems after washing.
Well thankfully Malcolms engine is already out of the car

Although that being said, you dont want to blast water into the intake channels, but I have on numerous occasions blasted my engine compartment.

What do you think happens when you drive in the rain?
Old 02-24-2009, 09:42 PM
  #48  
Mike B
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Originally Posted by Lizard931
Well thankfully Malcolms engine is already out of the car
Malcolm...I feel like the other woman!

I hope my not getting you some tools caused you any inconvenience.
Old 02-24-2009, 10:01 PM
  #49  
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Mike............Colin has me confused with the other Flyin' Scotsman

The engine remains in place hence the dilema and the weather as you know is back to full winter. I hear you have more snow and -15C at home

The issue is I can't move the car...........its on stands in the garage, both valve covers are off and I'm half way into ripping the front apart to replace the water pump and the water bridge gaskets. I may leave the old WP on the engine until I complete the OPG project so I can lift the front of the engine. Mike I may still borrow the engine hoist for this job.

Dave, thx for sharing your process thats a likely solution (pun intended) as I cant flood the garage with water; it'll freeze solid.

BTW, who makes the P21S?
Old 02-24-2009, 10:11 PM
  #50  
Lizard928
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oops, my bad, sorry Malcolm I thought you had the engine out of the car for your projects this time.

It is + 8 C here, and I was out for a ride on the bike today. no snow here, but lots of rain!
Old 02-24-2009, 10:13 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
... Mike I may still borrow the engine hoist for this job...
Absolutely Malcolm...I also have a gas powered 2600 psi pressure washer, that works very well, if you need it

I may even deliver if I can get the SO in sync with my schedule.
Old 02-24-2009, 10:15 PM
  #52  
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My neighbour has mine but I beleive he's all done. Its all yours if needed.
Old 02-24-2009, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
Dave, thx for sharing your process thats a likely solution (pun intended) as I cant flood the garage with water; it'll freeze solid.
Thanks Malcolm. I figured that while everyone would think I'm insane, my method would be suited to sub-zero temperatures. There's little mess. A drip tray under the part of the motor you're working on will be sufficient.

You may still have a problem with freezing though? Perhaps an infrared heater pointed at you and your work area makes sense? That's what I did the first winter in my garage before my heat was up and running.

BTW, who makes the P21S?
P21S is the maker. "Total Car Wash" is the product. Larry at www.carcareonline.com can set you up.

I buy
http://www.carcareonline.com/detail....oduct_id=10409
about once per year. It's very concentrated. I dilute it 5 or 10:1 for most normal cleaning and 2:1 for heavy engine stuff.
Old 02-24-2009, 10:31 PM
  #54  
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I may have access to a Herman Nelson type heater if needed. If OK for the dogs. Also will assist if needed, Could use the experence.
Old 02-24-2009, 10:32 PM
  #55  
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No worries Colin...........I wish we had your weather; I'm done with winter

Mike...........I too have a pressure washer but it runs on cold water is your hot water or steam? Anytime your schedules fit let me know............the door and fridge are open.

Thx for the offer Ole........did you buy that car? or Colins?
Old 02-24-2009, 10:40 PM
  #56  
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I just got a msg and it looks like he is too busy to tackle just yet there Malcolm,

Its too bad your still in the winter it is beautiful here
Old 02-24-2009, 10:42 PM
  #57  
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Been talking with Colin, could be meeting him in March in Abbotsford for a closer look
Old 02-24-2009, 10:50 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by dr bob
FWIW, the really **** detailers will do everything they can with wipes, then water, then a very mild detergent if needed. No corrosives at all, minimum possible damage from solvents, etc., and nothing that will risk damage to original finishes. Note that the top of the engine gets dusted, and maybe wiped with a damp towel to keep it new-looking. A little Pledge on the dust rag works wonders, as does a spritz of almost any of the "instant detailer" products followed by a light polish with a clean towel.
+1 That is exactly what I do for the engine and undercarriage. Not that I'm **** or anything.

Seriously, for those of you who intend to keep your cars and want them looking their absolute best there is no substitute for spending time cleaning without chemicals.
Old 02-24-2009, 11:16 PM
  #59  
Rob Edwards
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the really **** detailers will do everything they can with glass beads
Fixed that for you.



Old 02-25-2009, 12:02 AM
  #60  
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Default Varsol and hot water

FYI In my cold garage, I have good results with varsol/carb cleaner and rinse with a foamy type bathroom cleaner with hot water pressure sprayer or buccket and rag. I use one of those floor squeeges to push water away from driveway. Plumbig hot water to garage is easier than you might think, I have tried simple green but found it needed above zero temp to work. I know the dogs are a concern



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