I have an unsteady idle on my 85 euro I pulled the air control valve and applied 12v to the pins and reversed it. I do not see any movement I believe on my 86 US version I did, is there a way to test this or is the computer providing fast pulses and it will not react to testing on the bench.

 

Oh I forgot I used ground on the assembly touched the 12v to connector and it still would not activate. I remembered it switches polarity.

 

85 euro should have something like this, which is what CIS, and L-Jet engines have for cold starting. It closes slowly depending on the head temperature. The wiring powers a small heater inside. It's not controlled by the LH.

(thread)

 

Thanks, I thought something was wrong, I am cleaning everything up found 4 vacuum leaks so far. And love your tensioner I bought two

 

They're like potatoe chips! (Roger might say 'crisps'.)

 

just check the plug that connects to the WUR it should have 12 volts if it has 5 then check the air intake temp sensor plug they can get swapped, this is with the key on.
If the plugs were swapped then the temp sensor is probably toast if it had 12v sent to it

 

I had a poor cold idle on my 83 Kjet. Based on ideasfrom here, I opened the aux air valve (drill out the rivets), put in freezer, check how far open it is, bend spring until its at least 80% open. Checked also that its 90% closed when warmed up. Reassemble with M6 bolts , refit, much better...although its effect is only noticeable here (mostly > 65F) for a few minutes, it does help for those minutes.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k

 

Mark,

I have taken a couple of these apart and can answer any questions you might run into. They are pretty simple devices. Theres a heater coil and a bi-metalic strip. The bi-metalic strip is a couple of inches long and the end of it actuates a little wheel with an odd shaped cut out in it. The bi-metalic strip bends and turns the wheel as it is heated by the heater coil. This makes the wheel rotate and the opening or cutout in the wheel is rotated out of the way and the path for air is closed off. This Aux.air valve allows air to bypass the throttle plate to raise the idle in cold conditions. If you decide to drill out the rivets, small bolts work fine as replacements and allow you to take it apart as many times as you want.

 

Testing is pretty simple. To test the heater, check for a circuit between the posts. If no circuit the heating element is bad. Then check each post for a circuit to ground. If either or both posts have a circuit to the AAV body, the heater is bad. Next check the operation of the valve by placing the AAV in a freezer for about an hour. If the valve is not completely open or if it doesn't completely shut by the time it reaches 100F try cleaning and adjusting as described above.

Dennis