Sab

I attempted to check and set the timing on the '82 Euro.
I followed the manual and set timing at 3000 RPM.
Then it was off on idle and way too low on 5000 RPM. The car had no power.
I tried it over and over and it did not work. Since this was the night before track day I decided to set it to 32 degrees BTDC at 5000 RPM.
The car had OK power at high RPM's.

I assume the centrifugal advance is broken. Any ideas?

What should I check first? Can the distributor be fixed or will I need a new one?

Thanks,
Sab

Lizard928

I would recommend setting it to 10 deg BTDC at idle and see how the power is after that.

If the advance is broken you wont be able to go past around 3000rpm.

SharkSkin

There is a lot of info on how the timing/advance/retard system should work here. Basically, check your vacuum hookups and check without the vacuum to see if the timing is advancing as it should. I'm assuming you've done so, but please confirm.

Sab

That's what I did and the car felt like it had about 40 HP alltogether. It barely ran.

I have a new green wire, so I guess I have to pull the distributor anyway. I guess I should be able to inspect the centrifugal assembly.
Is there a rebuild kit? or an exchange?

WallyP

There should be little or no change in timing from 3000 to 5000. If there is a significant change, and if you had the vacuum hoses disconnected, there is a problem with the centrifugal advance.

Look at page 28-25 in the manual.

I'm not aware of any repair kits. Take it apart carefully, and see if you can find the problem. Might be corrosion, broken spring, etc.

dr bob

This symptom shows up when the centrifugal advance is stuck or broken, as others note. You may find that a bit of claenaing and careful lubrication of the pivot pins for the weights will do the trick.

Lizard928

As everyone has already stated, it might just need lube.

If you set the timing to 35 deg at that high of an RPm you are probably running that through the entire range which would be very prone to detonation!!!

There is no need to remove the distributor,
there is a small little cover which is stamped steel that can be popped out,
Once out start the car and set timing to 10 deg,
spray the inside with moovit or similar with the car running, rev the engine up and down abit to help throw the weights abit. You will find as they free it will rev easier.
Once they are fully moving and your timing checks out, get some bike chain lube and spray the inside liberally.

With this panel off and the engine not running you MAY be able to look inside and manually pry on the weights to see if the springs are still attached and working.

Sab

that sounds promising.
Can the green wire be changed without removing the entire distributor as well?
Thanks for the suggestions.

Lizard928

I think that it could be possible to replace that wire without removing the dizzy,

BUT imo it is not worth attempting, it is soo much easier to pull it and put it back, esp with having a timing light to set the timing again after.

However I do not believe the green wire would be able to cause your issues,

it will cause a miss/hesitation moreso.

Tampa 928s

Just take the distributer out and clean it on the bench: Set your HB to 0 make sure your cams at are mark pull the passenger cam cover top and look for the dimple and line on the block. If you don't see it bring the HB around one more time.
Look at your rotor it will point to number one plug wire. Look on the distributer housing you will see a very thin line this indicates number one location. Pull your distributor after you are sure you are at TDC then change your green wire. When you install the distributor place the rotor on it first you will have to place it before number one to install it due to the gear angle. When it goes in the bolt the holds the adjustment should be in the middle of the travel adjustment. The line I mentioned should be to the right of "the rotor indicating its just starting to fire the number one cylinder. It should fire up run good then plug both vacuum lines with motor warm set your timing to about 27-30 degrees at 3K. It just takes a few minutes to do this once TDC is set. If your adjustment bolt requires it to be at the end of travel to adjust your timing you placed it on the wrong side of the line.

Tampa 928s

Just noticed its a euro: The file is too big to send you the directions but they are pretty much the same for installing.

Sab

thanks, I got a pretty good idea now. I don't think my green wire is causing a problem, but it looks to be in very poor condition and I already have a new one. So I will change it while I tackle this timing issue.
I will update once I have it all apart.
cheers