Jkenzie,

I cleaned the grounds at the resistors, tested their resistance (ok), and then went and re-cleaned and tested the positive terminal (12v ok), and then went under the car and cleaned the starter solenoid/switch..it was covered in grime/oil. Retest voltage at coil term 15 (8.5v) and ballast to starter relay 8.5v also. I seem to be making progress. The ignition switch was bad for years and would cause the starter to drag w/starting up the car. I finally replaced the ignition switch last year, but I wonder if there was any damage done to the starter? Im gonna take it to be tested this week and continue to clean while im down there, too.

 

With 8.5V at the coil, it might run.

 

Dave's thread on his long and confusing, but ultimately successful efforts, is here. The solution is at the end.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum/486386-start-but-won-t-run-84-l-jet-new-title.html

will

 

"The ignition switch was bad for years and would cause the starter to drag w/starting up the car. I finally replaced the ignition switch last year, but I wonder if there was any damage done to the starter? Im gonna take it to be tested this week and continue to clean while I'm down there, too."

It is virtually impossible for a bad ignition switch to cause the starter to drag. All that the switch does is to trigger the starter relay, which triggers the starter solenoid, which switches the power to operate the starter. If the ignition switch triggers the relay, it has no further impact on the process at all.

Clean all of the grounds, especially the one on the bottom right of the engine.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I will be recleaning all grounds tonight (I found a diagram of all ground points) and Im currently trickle charging my battery. I will post an update as soon as I can.

 

So today is nice and warm in Chitown...nothing like troubleshooting a not running shark! So I continue to clean grounds (footwell by CE, power terminal/ground to engine on passenger side), and the ground under the car on passenger side. Its still so dirty/grimy under there that I also decide to remove the starter terminals and give them a really good cleaning and do add'l testing. (also snugged up the oil pan gasket bolts too.)

I notice that a starter wire is frayed and may have been shorting to ground. (Hot ballast problem?) So since I removed the starter and I decide take it to Advanced Auto to test (just for grins) and to pick up some add'l stuff ..... and they say its bad? WTF?? So I dismiss that as a inexperienced tech, he didnt look so sure on how to test. So I go to AutoZone for a second opinion and again the starter failed?? How the hell can a starter be bad and still try to turn the car over? Anyways, Im gonna replace the starter, fix the frayed wire..clean..clean..clean and will let you know.


FO

 

If the smaller gauge (brown on my car) is shorted to ground either in the starter or externally you will get a very hot ballast resistor and low voltage at the ignition coil. Good luck. It took my a couple of tries to get a good rebuilt starter.

 

J.Kenzie..
I just had a friend who works at Sears auto center test the starter a third time and it failed. One is on the way from 928gt. Hopefully my rebuilt works and it solves my problem. I also posted a picture of the bad cable from the starter, its not the small brown one but the one between the main power. From the picture you can't really tell the color. I also posted pics of my ground cable (bronze) and ground in trunk (bronze). Hopefully, they're clean enough to make even Wally P. smile.

Thanks to all for your help!

 

I'm sure you are going to clean and wrap with tape or shrinkwrap any of those wires that look suspicious. You might use your ohmmeter to check for grounded leads. On my starter the 15 terminal, the middle one, was shorted to ground internally. If you have damaged insulation, you may have a similar condition. The key for me was that my engine ran when the ignition key was in the start position, and died when I released the key to the run position.
Good luck

 

J.k,
Im cleaning, cleaning, cleaning and will repair w/electrical tape and shrink wrap. I will check for grounded leads also. My symptoms are exactly the same as yours. I've read your past post like 50 times..so im hoping thats it. I also found some add'l items to install so I really want to get past this hurdle.

 

fomanchu, if you still need motivation, pm me. maybe we can go for a ride. I still have a thousand things to straighten out with my car, but I drive it and stay very motivated.

 

Replaced all fuses and cleaned fuse panel
Replaced FI and Starter Relay
Cleaned all grounds and terminal on passenger side
Installed new green wire
Installed new starter
New gas w/Techron Injector cleaner

Still NO START..it stumbles and dies!!!!! Im at my wits end and ready to send it to the junk yard!!! I've tested temp ii, coil, ballast, voltage at jump post, cleaned ground cable to body and all others (even near headlights). I have a trickle charger on battery to keep it charged. Noid light shows injectors are firing, spark plug tester shows spark, fuel pump humms when ignition is turned on (it hums 4-5 seconds). I also just noticed that my alternator light is not on when I have the ignition key on. (More problems) I give up.. its over...

NO .... I wont give up... just need some add'l advice!! Nothing is over until we decide it is!!!

 

Fuel pump relay?

 

yup..tried that..swapped w/working horn relay..pump runs ..but still start stumbles and dies..

 

Have you verified fuel pressure? Could be a bad regulator. Sorry for your problems, at least when you get it figured out, and you will, you will have new sensors and other wear items.
Good luck