What shocks? Mine are tired
#1
What shocks? Mine are tired
Hi all, Im hoping for some advice
My car is a 93 GTS and the shocks are somewhat tired. Its a little too much like a boat at times, especially over sppedbumps etc, there is one bounce too many and she rolls a bit in the corners.
The car has covered 125,000 miles so its no surprise!
Basically, my pockets are not massively deep and stuffed with cash, but then I don't track the car, and I never plan too so I don't need a set-up that'd win a championship. Im just after a 'factory' grade of stiffness or maybe a little upgraded.
What are the best options?
How hard a job is it?
Thanks
My car is a 93 GTS and the shocks are somewhat tired. Its a little too much like a boat at times, especially over sppedbumps etc, there is one bounce too many and she rolls a bit in the corners.
The car has covered 125,000 miles so its no surprise!
Basically, my pockets are not massively deep and stuffed with cash, but then I don't track the car, and I never plan too so I don't need a set-up that'd win a championship. Im just after a 'factory' grade of stiffness or maybe a little upgraded.
What are the best options?
How hard a job is it?
Thanks
#2
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I really like the set-up in Bill Ball's car. It's just the right firmness without being uncomfortable. I'm sure he'll chime-in to provide more details on what he is running.
But this is what I would get next time.
But this is what I would get next time.
#3
Well the most obvious answer would be refresh what you have with new ones - probably stock Boges - or the most obvious upgrade is to Bilsteins which were also fitted stock on some models.
I have swapped to Bilsteins and its definitely a crisper/firmer ride.
Alan
I have swapped to Bilsteins and its definitely a crisper/firmer ride.
Alan
#5
The best deal by far is the original type Boge. Nicole has them and her car handles fine. She mentioned my Bilsteins, which cost twice as much. I think fresh black Boges are good and the Bilsteins are not THAT much better. The advantage for me is they can be rebuilt with different valving for $65 per shock, so I'm hoping they will work for my open road racing - they do not with stock valving.
You mentioned money issues several times, so I think the answer is the black Boge shocks. True, it's possible that over several 100K miles, the Bilsteins may prove to be economical due to rebuildability, but you have a money crunch now.
You mentioned money issues several times, so I think the answer is the black Boge shocks. True, it's possible that over several 100K miles, the Bilsteins may prove to be economical due to rebuildability, but you have a money crunch now.
#6
Thanks all this far.
I mention the money because I have seen in the past that you can end up with people recommending all sorts of fancy set-ups !!!
So, over there in the states.... What would a set cost of the Boge, or for that matter the Bilsteins?
Has anyone here changed the shocks themselves? Is a spring compressor req? How hard is it? Is a geometry set-up essential immediately afterwards?
ETA, Iv been staring at the set-ups available from 928motorsports, but, may as well be sensible, its a road car afterall ! + Im unlikely to put more than another 25>30,000 on her over the course of now till forever
I mention the money because I have seen in the past that you can end up with people recommending all sorts of fancy set-ups !!!
So, over there in the states.... What would a set cost of the Boge, or for that matter the Bilsteins?
Has anyone here changed the shocks themselves? Is a spring compressor req? How hard is it? Is a geometry set-up essential immediately afterwards?
ETA, Iv been staring at the set-ups available from 928motorsports, but, may as well be sensible, its a road car afterall ! + Im unlikely to put more than another 25>30,000 on her over the course of now till forever
#7
On my GTS I have standard Boge with Eibach springs - awesome combination for street use.
Or just replace the stock Boges and you will notice a big difference.
A full set of Boges (Sachs) is $400 plus $100 shipping to Jolly Old England.
The more sporty the shock the harder the ride. This will be be even more so on our roads in the UK.
If you need to step up the shock go with Bilstein or Koni but be prepared to loosen your teeth in exchange for better roadholding.
Bilsteins are $830 for a set of four and Koni's are $760. Plus the same in shipping.
Roger
Or just replace the stock Boges and you will notice a big difference.
A full set of Boges (Sachs) is $400 plus $100 shipping to Jolly Old England.
The more sporty the shock the harder the ride. This will be be even more so on our roads in the UK.
If you need to step up the shock go with Bilstein or Koni but be prepared to loosen your teeth in exchange for better roadholding.
Bilsteins are $830 for a set of four and Koni's are $760. Plus the same in shipping.
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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#8
AHH, Rog, you are obviously 'the man'.
Righty then, So how much are the springs?
And, how much is a kit of fuel lines?
And, how much arm twisting can I do?*
Im pretty certain I like the recommendation you made of the Sachs/Boges
*I am serious and am prepared to order pretty much just as soon as I have more info re: fitting, and the complexities of it. Therefore, If the right people answer on here today Il phone you tomorrow !
Whats the shipping time ?
Righty then, So how much are the springs?
And, how much is a kit of fuel lines?
And, how much arm twisting can I do?*
Im pretty certain I like the recommendation you made of the Sachs/Boges
*I am serious and am prepared to order pretty much just as soon as I have more info re: fitting, and the complexities of it. Therefore, If the right people answer on here today Il phone you tomorrow !
Whats the shipping time ?
#9
Yes you need a spring compressor, but they come with a free upper body workout. Getting the front shock spring assembly out can be a chore. The rears are usually easier, unless the BIG bolt makes removal dificult. Make a note of where the adjusters are set before dissassembly , and set new ones up the same, to get height close to original. Your ride height after will probably be different, so unless you adjust it back to the same as it was, an alignment is probably de rigeur. Unless you know when it was last aligned, probably a good idea anyway.
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k BTDT
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k BTDT
#10
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You will probably have issues with rust on the big bolts on the rear suspension and also the threaded adjuster sleeves on the rear shocks must be pressed off the old boge shocks and put on the new ones. Standard "book time" is about 10 hours for all four PLUS the alignment. The Bilstein shocks the adjuster threads are part of the shock and they come with a new perch as well.
#12
I'm in the middle of replacing all my shocks with a set of 4 new Boges courtesy of Roger and 928s R Us.
It was first time I'd changed shocks so I had a lot of questions to ask here as the job progressed. Have done one rear. With that experience tackling the other side to point of successfully removing main pin took just a couple of hours (when I next get time in the garage I'll undo the hatch nuts and the shock will just drop out). Yes the pin is likely to be reluctant to move, but just keep turning it to free it up and tap it out a few mm at a time till it will suddenly come out very easily for last few cm.
I wouldn't dream of trying to re-use the cruddy/seized adjusters - too easy to damage soft threads trying to get them off. I bought used ones from good folks at 928 International. Cleaned and polished them, and applied optimoly TA, to point where they move with a nice silky action so I can adjust ride height. I did measure where the original adjusters were set and duplicated this on the new shocks.
The hardest part for me was lining things up to put the pin back through the control arm, shock, hub carrier and various washers. Sometimes felt I needed more hands and tolerances are very tight. It helps to have someone put nuts on top of new shock when you push it up blind through the 'tunnel' up to the hatch.
Mark one of the studs at top end as it only goes back one way.
There's a tool which I can't find in UK to hold top of piston shaft so you can undo and later torque the top nut. I used adjustable spanner but found it awkward.
Haven't tackled fronts yet but understand they can be harder, though someone had a trick of removing wheel liner which looked like it could make things easier.
It was first time I'd changed shocks so I had a lot of questions to ask here as the job progressed. Have done one rear. With that experience tackling the other side to point of successfully removing main pin took just a couple of hours (when I next get time in the garage I'll undo the hatch nuts and the shock will just drop out). Yes the pin is likely to be reluctant to move, but just keep turning it to free it up and tap it out a few mm at a time till it will suddenly come out very easily for last few cm.
I wouldn't dream of trying to re-use the cruddy/seized adjusters - too easy to damage soft threads trying to get them off. I bought used ones from good folks at 928 International. Cleaned and polished them, and applied optimoly TA, to point where they move with a nice silky action so I can adjust ride height. I did measure where the original adjusters were set and duplicated this on the new shocks.
The hardest part for me was lining things up to put the pin back through the control arm, shock, hub carrier and various washers. Sometimes felt I needed more hands and tolerances are very tight. It helps to have someone put nuts on top of new shock when you push it up blind through the 'tunnel' up to the hatch.
Mark one of the studs at top end as it only goes back one way.
There's a tool which I can't find in UK to hold top of piston shaft so you can undo and later torque the top nut. I used adjustable spanner but found it awkward.
Haven't tackled fronts yet but understand they can be harder, though someone had a trick of removing wheel liner which looked like it could make things easier.
#14
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