mark kibort

I bet the PO superheated the drum and hence the cracking. I wouldnt worry about it. the braking force in the rear is mild and its not part of the wheel attachement structure. I would take a lot for that crack to propagate. I would monitor it, mark the cracks and see if they grow substantially.

heinrich

Charley if you drive like I do you cannot have those rotors on your car. Your life is worth more.

Lizard928

Due to the heat marks that I see, it got really hot a few times, I personally would NOT drive it and would replace immediatly. If you insist on continuing to use it take a drill bit and find the end of the cracks and drill a hole at the very ends of the cracks and this will prevent it from spreading. I still wouldnt do it, but if you insist/have NO OTHER options, then use the drill method. Otherwise you risk having it explode, this will take out the rim and leave you pretty much brakeless. I say this as it will leave nothing for the pad to stay in place and the pistons will simply fall out of the caliper rendering your system useless, the fronts may still work as they are on a different circuit but it will NOT be a pretty story.

As to your ebrake not working, buy a shoe w/ spring kit from Roger. This will be your problem and whenever the shoes are replaced the springs should be too.

mark kibort

I guess if you are on the race track, this can happen, but unlikely. this was off a toy car. a S2000 at the track.

mk

heinrich

Mark that is scary!!! the issue I am worried about, is if the pad hangs up on the cracked rotor locking up the wheel.

mark kibort

this one cracked under hard track conditions, but i get your point. it is certainly is a possiblity. this is honda crap, the 928 german stuff is a lot tougher.

mk

Lizard928

The reason I said what I did mark is that he has 4 of these cracks, not one.

If all 4 let go at the same time I doubt the center of the hub will stay together, it will simply let go and out the pieces come.

RyanPerrella

YES actually

run S4 pads on it too (they will be a little loose but will be ok)

do that until you can replace the fronts with the 965 rotors.

Tony

says the toothless cam guy!

mark kibort

that made me laugh!

StratfordShark

There is a hole in the rotor to access the star adjuster for the e-brake, but you have to rotate the rotor (parking brake off, neutral) till it's in line. The adjuster is in the 9 o'clock position I think (going from memory, either that or opposite at 3 o'clock).

Having said that I always found it easier to adjust the e-brake with the rotor off. You can also check why it's not working correctly then, check positioning of e-brake springs, and disassemble the mechanism and clean up/lubricate the adjuster if it's seized.

Putting the e-brake back together is frustrating at first, but then after a bit of practice is second nature!

Lizard928

the adjuster is 9 ok on the passenger side (LHD) and 3 ok drivers side.

Charley B

Ahhh! I looked only at the 3 O'Clock on the passenger side, thanks.

I bought a set of e-brake shoes a few years ago so I'm going to change the rotors, shoes and wheels and tires all at the same time. I was raised on drum type brakes so I don't expect problems changing the e-brake shoes. I think I still have all the tools needed,

My biggest concern now is breaking the spacers loose. Any hints?

SteveG

My spacers just fall off. I'm betting at most a tap from a mallet will do it. I didn't remove the rotor, but it has to be worth the effort especially if you are changing the shoes. The star adjuster is PIA to manipulate with a flat edge screw driver thru that hole. Besides being hard to catch with the driver, the threads bind with that brake dust on them.

Charley B

I beat the hell out of it with a BF shot hammer and no joy.