SharkSkin

Garth, I saw that thread. I wanted the fan out anyway since I was going in to pre-emptively seal the recirc box against water intrusion, so I didn't get to try your clever dipstick approach.

Mrmerlin

for anyone doing bottom blower box reseal, once the bolts are removed from the blower box, and you have moved the CE panel out of the way , and put a towel over the CE panel to prevent any trash falling into it.
The blower will also come through the hole that the box was in , so no need to remove the blower from the top.


TO clarify the blower motor housing must be disconnected from the bottom portion of the blower box ( 3 screws hold this to the bottom) B4 it will pass through the blower box hole

Also if your just doing the reseal and not wanting to touch the blower it can stay in its position when the bottom portion is removed (though if your this far why not at least clean out the blower and lube the bearings)

SharkSkin

Maybe for anyone not doing a '78. I think the recirc box is smaller -- only 4 studs -- and it barely came out WITHOUT the blower attached.

Mrmerlin

I never did a very early car so thanks for the info Dave.
So I would say that I have done 83 and up blower box reseals and the blower motor will also drop out of the box opening

Jadz928

Wow! That's big news. I will give that a try soon. Going reseal Perl.

Did Chewy last summer but blower came out from up above.

Thank you, Stan.

Daniel Dudley

I have always used Mobil One on small electric motor bearings. I spin and flush them with brake cleaner, or whatever I have handy. The Mobil One has worked well on tenthousand RPM palm sanders for countless hours with no problem. I used to get a product called Turbine Oil, that came in a small squeeze bottle with a six inch plastic extender on the bottle tip. This was the stuff that we used to lubricate bathroom fans at Grand Canyon National Park Lodges.

Both seem to work equally well. Some of the electricians would actually run the fan motors through the commercial dishwashers before drying them and relubing. I had never seen this done before, but I understand that it is a pretty common practice. I am not advocating it BTW, just passing it on.

Daniel Dudley

They probably got the Turbine Oil out of the Graingers catalog or McMaster Carr.

Mrmerlin

here are some pictures of a lube job on a fan motor.
First picture is driving the fan motor shaft out of the fan , I heated the fan hub with a lighter first to warm it up.
Second and third pictures are of the bottom E clip and its other washers it looks like ther is a fibrous washer closest to the motor housing followed by the brass washer then the steel washer then the E clip.
I ran power to the motor with a 12V batt charger set on 2 amps and also run the power through the relay pack. Once the motor was spinning I uses brahe cleaner to flush out the bearings on both ends, then used compressed air to blow out any debris, after a few flushes. I took Silicone spray and libed the bearings while running the motor, after this I cleaned the commutator with small piece of pencil eraser and sprayed off the brushes and commutator with CRC elex cleaner.
Then I lubed the bearings again with some marvel mystery oil spray lube and put it back together, installed the fan then ran the whole unit for while its quiet and smooth

Landseer

Thanks for taking the time to show this, Stan.

It be the job of Sunday!

Anything else I should know?

SharkSkin

Stan, are the parts pictured above the ones that started squealing after cleaning and lubing(Post 14)? If so it appears to have seen a fair amount ow water. Did you remove the motor end caps to polish the shaft? Are the brushes as worn as they look, or does it just look that way because of where the wire braid is routed?

Mrmerlin

This is the motor that started squealing and setting off the relay pack.
The brushes dont seem to be worn much ,however
I couldnt figure out a way to remove the bearings from the shafts so they were left in position while the brake cleaner was sprayed into the bearings while it was running, followed by compressed air. Then the silicone spray lube then the Marvel mystery oil spray lube.
With the relay pack installed in the wire route on the bench it seems to run so the WFO connection stays in the open position ( IE the blower syndrome wont be happening)

SharkSkin

Cool, the brushes looked about 1/2 worn in the pic you posted. Glad to hear it's working out.

chrly924s

Can that motor be X with another manufacturer? Is it a VDO or Bosch unit? I was ust wondering if it was a common size that could be replaced.

WallyP

Back in the day, there was a feeling that the temp-sensitive switch was just a little too sensitive. It was common to tweak it to make it a little slower to close.

Have you checked the actual current draw on the motor?

Mrmerlin

I have not checked the current draw other than putting a relay pack in series with the fan and running through the slow setting with the relay pack out of the airstream the WFO will close, if its placed into the airstream the WFO connection stays open , so i would say that things are good