Tampa 928s

Here is a close up of the center plate T-bolts. Can you tell if this looks correct as far as distance without engaging the clutch?

Fabio421

Mark, that bushing is $14 from 928 spec. if I remember correctly. p/n# 928.116.145.03 It can also be used to replace the ball cup bushing as well. In that application it will save you alot of $$$.

Once you attache the arm at the ball joint at the top of the bellhousing you can engage the clutch to adjust those T bars. Use a ratchet strap to hold the arm and attache the other end to the rear crossmember. Tighten it down and it will release the clutch pressure. This is the only way I know how to do it with the lower bellhousing removed.

SharkSkin

You can probably get grease into the guide tube and release arm areas, but not the thrust washer and stub shaft. Actually, if you want to band-aid it you might be able to use a thin snorkel and some spray grease to try and lube the thrust washer, but you risk getting grease into the friction surfaces that way.

I'd say you've almost got it out, pull it and at least lube the parts that require lube, and replace at least the TO and guide tube WYAIT. Make the call whether to replace the guide tube or not based on its condition once you can examine it.

I can't tell from your pics how the adjusters are set. If the clutch was releasing properly(idle in neutral clutch out, press clutch and after a 2-count shift into reverse. If it doesn't grind, the clutch is not dragging). Couple more pics -- one is the WSM spec on the adjusters, the second shows an assembly shim. The third is a cross-section. The ones that come with a new PP are too long and hit the bellhousing; you can make up a shorter version of the same from an old coat hanger or other thick wire.

If you are going to completely remove the clutch, mark the PP, IP, and flywheel positions relative to one another before you take it apart. That way, assuming you decide to put the same parts back in, you will not introduce a new vibration from imbalance of parts.

Mrmerlin

once again NICE pictures Dave

Tampa 928s

I have the clutch all the way back with a strap so I can turn the shaft by hand.
Dumb ?
Here are a couple of pictures of the T-bolt but I can not visualize where you can tell if it is 1.5 MM.

Tampa 928s

Something else, when I rotate the rear shaft there is a rattle that seems to be emanating from the clutch plates.

SharkSkin

The point indicated by the red arrows in the pic below is the point called out in the diagram I posted earlier as "Point 5". You will not see the gap unless you have engaged the clutch.

I'd suggest you pull the adjusters rearward as far as you can with the clutch disengaged. They should get pushed forward to a certain point when you engage the clutch. To check, make sure that you see the intermediate plate move rearward when you disengage the clutch. The slave rod moves ~17mm normally when the pedal is pushed down, so you need to move it about that much using a prybar when checking. It's OK if you move it a bit more, I'm just saying stick close to the normal range of travel.

After pushing them rearward with the clutch disengaged, then letting the clutch engage, you should see the gap mentioned at point 5 above.

The clutch plates are probably rattling because the splines are dry.

Tampa 928s

This picture was with the clutch released, it was pulled back and there is not a 1 MM gap according to your reference.
I used a come-along and released the clutch enough to rotate the rear shaft. I am a little hesitant to pull it any tighter in fear of breaking the strap. Is this not far enough back, not sure if its 17 MM but I can see a small gap between the clutch disks.

SharkSkin

OK, I edited the above post to clear up some semantic ambiguity. When I was saying "release" I meant "let go of the release arm". Should be clearer now.

"Engage clutch" = let go of release arm
"Disengage clutch" = push release arm rearward as if you have the clutch pedal pushed to the floor.

Sorry if I confused you. There was a thread started by Kibort a while back that has lots of good pics. There is a lot of back and forth in that thread, basically if you end up with the gap as described, you can see a gap between BOTH disks and the plates, and you can turn the driveshaft freely you should be good. With all new parts, pushing the adjusters all the way to the rear was all it took. As the adjuster fork wears it may be necessary to compensate.

BTW, thanks for the kudos, Stan! Lots more where those came from.

SharkSkin

To illustrate further:

In the diagram below, the blue part is the pressure plate. The green part is the intermediate plate. The red parts are the friction disks.

When you disengage the clutch, the blue pressure plate moves rearward. The green intermediate plate has springs on it, which move it backwards as well. It follows the pressure plate until it catches on the forks.

You need the intermediate plate to move back 1mm to 1.5mm before it catches the fork. This allows room for the front friction disk to spin freely. Then the pressure plate needs to move further, backward another 1mm to 1.5mm. This allows room for the rear friction disk to spin freely. If you're seeing the intermediate plate move backward ~1mm that's probably fine, assuming the release arm is moving ~17mm. You can control this a lot better and estimate the amount of movement better by using a prybar where I've drawn the purple line.

Sorry, the description above was off -- too much of a hurry. It's fixed now.

HTH

Tampa 928s

Well thats an interesting intercourse of opinion on the way to adjust the clutch.

SharkSkin

Yeah, the drama gets thick in there. Good pics though. I edited my above post and made some corrections, BTW.

Tampa 928s

Thanks SS I am going at this slow after reading some nightmare posts on things that happen. I had to loosen up the pass header to drop the lower cover. It looks like the clutch may not drop out with out doing the drivers side header. So you see my reasoning for not to remove the pack just to look at it. It will be a lot easier if I can check the IP, grease what is practical and replace the bushing and see if the intermittent reverse and first gear grind goes away .

SharkSkin

Thanks for clearing up which side of the fence you're on. Another tack might be to get in there and make sure you don't have to go back. 'Nuff said on that.

I don't think that the lube points that you can reach are going to affect the way the clutch releases. BTW, DON'T lube the adjusters. What you can do is maybe smooth up the action a bit, but the issues arise downstream of the TO bearing in the mechanical chain.

If your ball cup bushing is horked, that will reduce TO bearing travel and may be the cause of your intermittent grinding.

The lube point where the release arm pulls against the TO bearing being dry might have led to a side-load on the ball, accelerating the inevitable demise of the bushing.

The one lube point that can affect the way the clutch releases is the splines on the stub shaft. If that's dry or worn it can cause the disks to hang up and not fully release.

Not sure just how slow you're planning on taking it. If you can wait till I get my site updated in a week or so it make things lot clearer for you. If you're in more of a hurry than that PM me an email address that can take a few MB at a gulp and I'll send you a package.

Mrmerlin

I would add that based on the condition of the pressure plate I would guess that its time for a clutch removal and inspection. Make sure to use the factory grease on the new input shaft as this rattling is indicative of worn splines due to rust.
You will also want to inspect the pilot bearing as if this begins to seize it will also cause the shaft to keep turning, and could under worst case scenario damage the crankshaft.
Since your this far you should finish the job, then you will have many trouble free miles , please post pictures of the parts that you remove